Sunday, January 10, 2010

Route 12 caves, Part 1

I got up at 8.30 and walked to town to search for breakfast. I ate the Sabaidee (hello) restaurant. A big breaky of toast, scrambled eggs, bacon, homefries and a coffee for $3.25. The internet place I've been using, one of the only in town, which has only 3 laptops, also rents motorbikes and bikes. I decided to treat myself to a motorbike to explore the caves. I wasn't sure how the road was going to be and didn't feel like a long pedal on a crap bike today. I was a little rusty at first on the bike, it had been 5 years since I hired my own moto to ride but once I started to cruise out of town, with my helmet on, I felt more comfortable. This was fun. The road turned out to be really smooth and traffic was really light.Concrete km markers lined the road so I always knew how far I was from Tha Kek.
I stopped at Tham Xieng Liab first. I parked my bike in a shady area about 150m from the road. A young boy led me to the cave for $1. There was no entry fee here. We walked over dry leaves and across a fallen tree over a river to reach the huge entrance to the cave. A small stream ran out of the cave. Once inside the cave I could see it had 3 entrances and it was never really, really dark. We waded through knee deep water and came out a different way. The same kid guide offered to guide to me to another cave nearby. I wasn't sure if I needed a guide but accepted anyway, the price was right. The cave was a minute down the road by our motos and then 3 minutes from the road. Turns out I didn't need a guide as the Pha In cave was very small. There was no going anywhere in it. Buddhas and prayer flags hung in the cave and it was an important place of worship.

Next I continued to the furthest out cave along Rt. 12, Than Nang Aen. The whole way the scenery was stunning. Huge limestone karst mountains against the richly deep blue sky. The scenery was similar to Vangvieng but grander. This last cave was the most touristy with some infastructure but was not busy. Concrete sidewalks and lights made touring the cave very tame. I still liked it though. It was huge and had some interesting formations. I noticed a river ran into the depths where the lights ceased to shine. This cave has great adventure potential. I dreamt about swimming or wading into the darkness.
It was only about 2pm and there were a few caves I skipped closer to Tha Kek but I still decided to just cruise the road more. I had a full tank of gas, I only had to top it up with $1.50 and the scenery was pulling me in for more. I just wanted to see what the next mountains looked like. I cruised 32km out of town and then turned around. I stopped at a place with a large colorful sign depicting the newly discovered Laotian Rock rat. This thing was huge and I wanted to see it. The sign gave me the impression they were breeding them or at least had a few on display somewhere down this dirt road. Before going there I had to have a drink and a snack. A group of young local kids gathered around me, wanting to lightly shake my hand. The friendliest one had a grotesquely scarred right arm and his legs weren't in much better shape but he was always smiling. I showed them all how to give a high 5. They loved this! I could've spent the rest of the day doing my rounds of high 5's, but the rock rat was calling. I drove my moto slowly down the dirt road but saw no evidence of the rock rat anywhere. I came to the end of the road and turned around. I was disappointed, I really wanted to see this creature. No one really spoke english, so I couldn't ask anyone either. I got back on the main road and started heading back.
I took the turnoff for Tha Falang, across the street from the first cave I had visited. The track was narrow and eventually opened into a cleared wooded area beside the river. The name means sculpted rocks and I guess I saw them, but it wasn't impressive. I headed back into town. I dropped off my bike and relaxed in my room. On top of all the other great things about my room was the sound and the light. With the shutters closed,all outside light and sound were virtually non existent. This is hard to find in many rooms. I always appreciate it when I find it just in case I need an afternoon siesta.
I went back into town for dinner but ate bbq pork from a different vendor with sticky rice and a coconut juice for $2.

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