I had originally planned to do a 5 -7 day trek in southeastern Laos in a remote national protected area. I saw some prices for the trek and they were much more than I anticipated and I doubted if I could find anyone else to go. I couldn't justify spending more than double my daily budget for the trek. I had left days for the trek before I found this out and now found myself in the south with extra days. That is why I spent a few days camping on the plateau and why I went today to Wat Phu. This wat or temple is the only Ankgor era temple in Laos, though the original structure dates back to the 6th century. I had seen Ankgor Wat in Cambodia and Bagan in Myanmar but with this unseen extra time I decided to see Wat Phu as well.
I rented a motorbike for the journey. Wat Phu is 46km from Pakse. I left at 11.30 in the heat of the day. For the first time on the trip, my upper thighs and arms got burnt. I wore my pants for the second half of the trip. I had to cross the Mekong river to get to Champasak town near the temple. The Mekong is very wide here and I took a boat across. Well, actually it was 2 canoes lashed together with a wooden platform on them for carrying bikes. From town it was 8km to Wat Phu. There is a 5 day festival every year in Wat Phu and although I generally don't like festivals, the festival was going on now from January 25 to the 30th. I paid my entrance for the bike, parking for the bike and entrance fee for the temple and I was finally in. There were way too many people. The festival had become very commercial and was like a carnival with tons of vendors selling stuff and entertainment like boxing. I didn't like the atmosphere at all. The temple was great though and I'm glad I saw it, I just wish it was at a different time. I stayed a few hours and then started heading back. The sun was setting as I pulled into Pakse. It was a strong pink color and the suns rays became definitive beams over the clouds. I had to stop to take a photo. This would be my last night in Pakse. I had to start making my way towards Vietnam. My 45 day visa would be expiring in a few days.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Bolavan plateau part II
I woke up in my tent to a glorious cloudless sky and the sun shining brilliantly. I ate breakfast at the resort and then walked to Tad Champee. This waterfall is the other main attraction I could visit within walking distance. It took me about an hour to walk there. Once I paid the small entrance fee and walked down to the waterfall I was relieved to see that there was absolutely no one there. I had the whole place to myself. The waterfalls were about 20m high and kind of had 3 cascades. Below them was a wide and deep pool perfect for swimming. Behind them was a sort of cave or overhanging ledge. I walked along this for some journey behind the falls photos. I noticed a pontoon bamboo raft floated by some large jerry cans. It had a rope running through it from the shore to the other side behind the waterfall. I knew what this was. I climbed aboard and pulled myself towards the falls. I stopped when I was right under the falls and let them massage and cool me. I swam a little and then pulled myself back to shore. A German couple had showed up now but still, there was no one else.
I walked back to Pusawan and had lunch. I looked down on the falls from the top and noticed there was hardly any mist or wind. It was a much better time to photograph the falls. I grabbed my camera and went down below to the viewpoint. I bathed in the river before dinner. Tonight's meal was tasty bbq pork, sticky rice, chillie sauce and 3 oranges for dessert. After spending 3 days on the plateau, I have made a generalization for the weather which I think holds true. The mornings are sunny and cloudless. The clouds roll in in the early afternoon and it could rain or not. The sky stays cloudy till the middle of the night and then the whole thing happens again. At least this is the way I see it. I was glad it didn't rain at all when I was camping.
The next morning I packed up my tent and after a huge breakfast walked to the main road. I got picked up by a bus after 10 minutes. When I got on the bus I noticed it was mostly empty and its 10 passengers were mostly teenagers trying to look cool with some weird fashions. I sat at a window seat and watched the scenery. I glanced up and could see the rear view mirror perfectly. It was then that I noticed the driver of the bus was a 15 year old kid! I know Asians look younger than they are but this kid was no more than 17 for sure. He seemed to concentrate on the road and drove at a reasonable speed. It was like him and his buddies were just out cruising in the bus. We hardly picked up any other passengers either. Anyway I got to Pakse safe and took another room at Lankham hotel.
I walked back to Pusawan and had lunch. I looked down on the falls from the top and noticed there was hardly any mist or wind. It was a much better time to photograph the falls. I grabbed my camera and went down below to the viewpoint. I bathed in the river before dinner. Tonight's meal was tasty bbq pork, sticky rice, chillie sauce and 3 oranges for dessert. After spending 3 days on the plateau, I have made a generalization for the weather which I think holds true. The mornings are sunny and cloudless. The clouds roll in in the early afternoon and it could rain or not. The sky stays cloudy till the middle of the night and then the whole thing happens again. At least this is the way I see it. I was glad it didn't rain at all when I was camping.
The next morning I packed up my tent and after a huge breakfast walked to the main road. I got picked up by a bus after 10 minutes. When I got on the bus I noticed it was mostly empty and its 10 passengers were mostly teenagers trying to look cool with some weird fashions. I sat at a window seat and watched the scenery. I glanced up and could see the rear view mirror perfectly. It was then that I noticed the driver of the bus was a 15 year old kid! I know Asians look younger than they are but this kid was no more than 17 for sure. He seemed to concentrate on the road and drove at a reasonable speed. It was like him and his buddies were just out cruising in the bus. We hardly picked up any other passengers either. Anyway I got to Pakse safe and took another room at Lankham hotel.
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Camping on the plateau
The morning after my birthday we ate the included with the room breakfast. After that Matt and I joined a French couple for a hike around the area. We left at 8.30 and descended a steep trail through forest to the top of the waterfalls. It was cool being up here but not as spectacular as I imagined. I couldn't get too close to the edge of the falls to see the bottom or take a good photo. We hiked back up and through coffee and tea plantations to Tad Yuang waterfalls. These falls are almost a twin cascade as well and fall 40m. They are more accessible and you can swim at the top or bottom. The mist from the falls was spread everywhere by the wind, making photography at that moment difficult. We went along the top of the falls to a new resort called Pusawan. We stopped here for coffee and it was then that I noticed the resorts sign. Among the things it offered was 'tent'. I asked the owner and he said they rented tents or I could pitch my own anywhere I wanted for $3. That was enough for me.
We hiked for an hour back to Tad Fane. Matt left for Pakse and I walked 3km along the road back to Pusawan. I set up my tent in a sort of private out of the way place upstream and beside a set up small rapids that drowned out any sounds. The Thai owner of the the resort was still building. He started building the place by himself 2 years ago. He wasn't officially open yet. He had more work to do and planned on a grand opening in the next 2 months but he was glad to have me stay. There was some noise from a table saw and generator but I couldn't hear anything at my tent. I also noticed that during my time there the table saws stopped completely and he did less noisy work. Tad Yuang is a popular waterfall and has a small market in the car park. I ate a simple lunch here. I bathed in the river and read before dinner.
I was the only person staying at Pusawan. I ate dinner alone. The food was bbq chicken, sticky rice and chilly sauce. It was all very good and cheap. Tea and water were free. They really treated me nice here. The sky was unfortunately very dark and had been teasing with false threats of rain all day. The generator went off at 8 and it was dark and quiet.
We hiked for an hour back to Tad Fane. Matt left for Pakse and I walked 3km along the road back to Pusawan. I set up my tent in a sort of private out of the way place upstream and beside a set up small rapids that drowned out any sounds. The Thai owner of the the resort was still building. He started building the place by himself 2 years ago. He wasn't officially open yet. He had more work to do and planned on a grand opening in the next 2 months but he was glad to have me stay. There was some noise from a table saw and generator but I couldn't hear anything at my tent. I also noticed that during my time there the table saws stopped completely and he did less noisy work. Tad Yuang is a popular waterfall and has a small market in the car park. I ate a simple lunch here. I bathed in the river and read before dinner.
I was the only person staying at Pusawan. I ate dinner alone. The food was bbq chicken, sticky rice and chilly sauce. It was all very good and cheap. Tea and water were free. They really treated me nice here. The sky was unfortunately very dark and had been teasing with false threats of rain all day. The generator went off at 8 and it was dark and quiet.
Bolaven Birthday
Jan 24.
It was my birthday and I wanted to be somewhere quiet. Pakse was not that place. The nearest option was Tad Fane resort,a slightly more expensive lodge perched beside the Tad Fan waterfalls on the Bolaven plateau. This area is about 1000m high and due to abundant rainfall, altitude and rich volcanic soil,is the coffee growing area of Laos. Many waterfalls are found on the plateau. Tad Fane resort is only one hour from Pakse and is the only thing around it. No town or village nearby. This sounded like my place. Even though it was more expensive, I was going to treat myself for my birthday. It was great news when Matt said he also wanted to go there. We would get a room with 2 beds and split the $30. It was no longer over my budget. Matt had some things to do in town, so he would meet me there. I arrived at the resort, which is 1km from the main road at 11am. The room was in a nice bungalow in a lushly forested and landscaped ground. I thought for the price the room would have been larger but I guess it's more about the atmosphere here.
I walked to a viewpoint to get a look at the waterfalls. The Tad fan waterfalls are actually a twin waterfall plunging 120m into dense forest around a steep cliff. There was a path leading down to a better viewpoint with the sign 'danerous' in front of it. I took this way! I went as far as I could and I could finally see the bottom of the falls. There was no way down further than here though. It was just too steep. As I was down here taking pictures, it started to rain so I quickly made my way back up the path. The sun came out later and the day was getting on. It was almost 4.30 and I thought Matt wasn't going to show and then he did. He had to wait for the bus from Pakse.
The resort had a great elevated dining area that had an obscured view of the falls. There is only 14 rooms here but I don't think they were full. There were about 15 other people in the dining room, mostly older French and German folks. I ate a tasty but different Thai green curry loaded with eggplant and swimming in oil. Matt and I chilled on our veranduh. It was a great place to spend my birthday. I always try to do something special for Christmas and my birthday. I can remember where I was for every single Christmas and birthday for almost the last decade. The sound of the falls lulled me into a restful sleep.
It was my birthday and I wanted to be somewhere quiet. Pakse was not that place. The nearest option was Tad Fane resort,a slightly more expensive lodge perched beside the Tad Fan waterfalls on the Bolaven plateau. This area is about 1000m high and due to abundant rainfall, altitude and rich volcanic soil,is the coffee growing area of Laos. Many waterfalls are found on the plateau. Tad Fane resort is only one hour from Pakse and is the only thing around it. No town or village nearby. This sounded like my place. Even though it was more expensive, I was going to treat myself for my birthday. It was great news when Matt said he also wanted to go there. We would get a room with 2 beds and split the $30. It was no longer over my budget. Matt had some things to do in town, so he would meet me there. I arrived at the resort, which is 1km from the main road at 11am. The room was in a nice bungalow in a lushly forested and landscaped ground. I thought for the price the room would have been larger but I guess it's more about the atmosphere here.
I walked to a viewpoint to get a look at the waterfalls. The Tad fan waterfalls are actually a twin waterfall plunging 120m into dense forest around a steep cliff. There was a path leading down to a better viewpoint with the sign 'danerous' in front of it. I took this way! I went as far as I could and I could finally see the bottom of the falls. There was no way down further than here though. It was just too steep. As I was down here taking pictures, it started to rain so I quickly made my way back up the path. The sun came out later and the day was getting on. It was almost 4.30 and I thought Matt wasn't going to show and then he did. He had to wait for the bus from Pakse.
The resort had a great elevated dining area that had an obscured view of the falls. There is only 14 rooms here but I don't think they were full. There were about 15 other people in the dining room, mostly older French and German folks. I ate a tasty but different Thai green curry loaded with eggplant and swimming in oil. Matt and I chilled on our veranduh. It was a great place to spend my birthday. I always try to do something special for Christmas and my birthday. I can remember where I was for every single Christmas and birthday for almost the last decade. The sound of the falls lulled me into a restful sleep.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Xe Pian Trek
I came to Pakse mainly to do a trek to Xe Pian National Protected Area. This is supposed to be one of the most important protected areas in Laos because it is remote and hardly anyone lives there. I went to the tourist office to see if they had any treks going but they didn't. I checked Xplore Asia, a tour company near my hotel and they had a trek leaving the next day with 3 people. This sounded good.
While I was still in town I wanted to check out the big market 2km away. I rented a bicycle to ride there. While I was on my way I ran into Rohan, the New Zealander I did the Phou Hin Boun trek with days ago. He was looking for a hotel. He took a room at my hotel, Lankham and rented a bike and we rode to the market. He was also looking to trek to Xe Pian and when we came back from the market, we both signed up for the trek.
We had to be at the Xplore Asia office at 7am. I got up at 6.30 and Rohan and I ate at the Indian restaurant across the street. We left at 7.15 with our female guide, Son. It was an hour and a half drive to Kingfisher Resort where we picked up our other 3 trekkers. They were Russian couple Vlad and Nelly and Frenchman Matt. From here we had another hour and a half drive along a very bad road to the village of Pha Pho. We got our stuff together here, picked up our local guide and began trekking. We trekked through very nice and tall forest. Much nicer and more diverse than the forests of Phou Hin Boun. It felt great to be in the proper forest again. My guidebook says that this 2 day trek is the toughest they have done in Laos but I didn't think so. The 'barely visible trails' were clearly visible to me and the streams that we were supposedly to cross numerous times, were all dried up. There was no water the first day anywhere and I thought it was quite an easy and enjoyable trek. We left the forest for a small road like track that led to the village. We stopped here for a rest. It was here that my right knee and a few fingers started burning and were intensely itchy and uncomfortable. I had shorts on, which was my mistake. I must have brushed up against some nasty plant. Thankfully it didn't last too long but the itch came back as I poured water on it during my bucket shower. It was also at this point during our rest that I noticed some dried blood on my hand. I wasn't feeling any pain anywhere and couldn't figure out where it came from. Son noticed a little later that there was a bloody clot on my left ankle, just above my sock. It seems like I was the victim of my first leech in Laos! The forest was really dry and I didn't expect any leeches. No one else encountered any. Must have been a determined rogue. It was no big deal though. I washed off the blood later. It became slightly itchy 2 days later.
We walked this road for 1km and reached the very poor village of Ta Ong. We would be spending the night here in an eco-lodge located at the far end of the village. I liked the location of the lodge. It wasn't in the middle of the village so we didn't have people constantly staring at us or weren't completely overwhelmed by the noisy village. We relaxed here until dinner was ready in the village. The food was varied and delicious, much much better than the food on my last 2 treks. Of course, laolao was passed around after the meal. It wasn't as strong as some of the laolao I've had but still, 2 shots was enough for me. Matt and I hung out on the porch. The stars were good but the atmosphere was ruined by several places in the village. Even though they don't have electricity, they run a few generators. A few places were playing loud music over top of each other and another place had the volume on their video game turned up full blast. It could have been such a peaceful night. This racket continued till almost midnight.
The next day we got up at 6.30 and went for a hike in the forest. We were supposed to see some birds feeding but the tree had apparently finished fruiting. We heard a bit of commotion in the trees but saw nothing. We walked back to the village and went for breakfast. It rained during the night and the morning sky looked ominous. While we ate breakfast it started to rain. At the last minute while packing for this trip I decided to take my raincoat and I'm glad I did. I put the raincover on my pack and we all had to start hiking in the rain. It was really wet without cover but became less so once we entered the forest again. We walked about an hour and a half in the rain. It stopped just before we climbed up to a magnificent viewpoint. The rain left behind clouds of mist over the forest below us. It looked really cool as some of them climbed towards us and right past us. From here we walked another hour to a waiting boat. The sun came out and my pants dried as we rode the river. It was an enjoyable boat ride. There were 2 boats, well really just motorized canoes, 3 of us to each canoe. Our canoe was having problems. Turns out we ran out of gas! The oldest trick in the book! We had to hang on to the other canoe for a tow for the next 30 minutes. We came back to the village were we had started the trek and had lunch. Then it was the bumpy ride back to the smooth road and finally back to Pakse. Matt and I both took a room at Lankham. Rohan went to another hotel but we met up for dinner later. Rohan was leaving for the 4000 islands area south of here. Matt and I were heading to Tad Fan waterfalls.
While I was still in town I wanted to check out the big market 2km away. I rented a bicycle to ride there. While I was on my way I ran into Rohan, the New Zealander I did the Phou Hin Boun trek with days ago. He was looking for a hotel. He took a room at my hotel, Lankham and rented a bike and we rode to the market. He was also looking to trek to Xe Pian and when we came back from the market, we both signed up for the trek.
We had to be at the Xplore Asia office at 7am. I got up at 6.30 and Rohan and I ate at the Indian restaurant across the street. We left at 7.15 with our female guide, Son. It was an hour and a half drive to Kingfisher Resort where we picked up our other 3 trekkers. They were Russian couple Vlad and Nelly and Frenchman Matt. From here we had another hour and a half drive along a very bad road to the village of Pha Pho. We got our stuff together here, picked up our local guide and began trekking. We trekked through very nice and tall forest. Much nicer and more diverse than the forests of Phou Hin Boun. It felt great to be in the proper forest again. My guidebook says that this 2 day trek is the toughest they have done in Laos but I didn't think so. The 'barely visible trails' were clearly visible to me and the streams that we were supposedly to cross numerous times, were all dried up. There was no water the first day anywhere and I thought it was quite an easy and enjoyable trek. We left the forest for a small road like track that led to the village. We stopped here for a rest. It was here that my right knee and a few fingers started burning and were intensely itchy and uncomfortable. I had shorts on, which was my mistake. I must have brushed up against some nasty plant. Thankfully it didn't last too long but the itch came back as I poured water on it during my bucket shower. It was also at this point during our rest that I noticed some dried blood on my hand. I wasn't feeling any pain anywhere and couldn't figure out where it came from. Son noticed a little later that there was a bloody clot on my left ankle, just above my sock. It seems like I was the victim of my first leech in Laos! The forest was really dry and I didn't expect any leeches. No one else encountered any. Must have been a determined rogue. It was no big deal though. I washed off the blood later. It became slightly itchy 2 days later.
We walked this road for 1km and reached the very poor village of Ta Ong. We would be spending the night here in an eco-lodge located at the far end of the village. I liked the location of the lodge. It wasn't in the middle of the village so we didn't have people constantly staring at us or weren't completely overwhelmed by the noisy village. We relaxed here until dinner was ready in the village. The food was varied and delicious, much much better than the food on my last 2 treks. Of course, laolao was passed around after the meal. It wasn't as strong as some of the laolao I've had but still, 2 shots was enough for me. Matt and I hung out on the porch. The stars were good but the atmosphere was ruined by several places in the village. Even though they don't have electricity, they run a few generators. A few places were playing loud music over top of each other and another place had the volume on their video game turned up full blast. It could have been such a peaceful night. This racket continued till almost midnight.
The next day we got up at 6.30 and went for a hike in the forest. We were supposed to see some birds feeding but the tree had apparently finished fruiting. We heard a bit of commotion in the trees but saw nothing. We walked back to the village and went for breakfast. It rained during the night and the morning sky looked ominous. While we ate breakfast it started to rain. At the last minute while packing for this trip I decided to take my raincoat and I'm glad I did. I put the raincover on my pack and we all had to start hiking in the rain. It was really wet without cover but became less so once we entered the forest again. We walked about an hour and a half in the rain. It stopped just before we climbed up to a magnificent viewpoint. The rain left behind clouds of mist over the forest below us. It looked really cool as some of them climbed towards us and right past us. From here we walked another hour to a waiting boat. The sun came out and my pants dried as we rode the river. It was an enjoyable boat ride. There were 2 boats, well really just motorized canoes, 3 of us to each canoe. Our canoe was having problems. Turns out we ran out of gas! The oldest trick in the book! We had to hang on to the other canoe for a tow for the next 30 minutes. We came back to the village were we had started the trek and had lunch. Then it was the bumpy ride back to the smooth road and finally back to Pakse. Matt and I both took a room at Lankham. Rohan went to another hotel but we met up for dinner later. Rohan was leaving for the 4000 islands area south of here. Matt and I were heading to Tad Fan waterfalls.
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Bat Cave Trek Day 2
Before I went to sleep last night, Lucky asked me to set my alarm. When I asked him what time he said '4:99'. I said ' I don't know what time that is?!. He said '4:99' again but then he finally said '5'. The next morning I woke up at 5am and woke the guys up. We had some coffee and sweet bread and then started hiking. We hiked an easy trail for a short distance and then began to climb up the karst. We climbed up the karst until we reached the gigantic opening of the bat cave. It was after 6 at this point. We were suppose to see the bats coming back into the cave but I think they were already in. We didn't see them come in. We hiked right through the massive cave and up the other side. It was a like a huge hole in the mountain. As we hiked back to the entrance the suns rays were shining in and made some great photos. We stood on a high rocky hill at the entrance to the caves. There were thousands of swiftlets flying around our heads. The sound of their wings cutting the air was loud as they flew by my head.
We walked back to the camp and had breakfast. After that we went on a mostly trailless walk to look for animals but saw nothing. I only saw signs of deer or wild pig in the cave to drink from water coming out of the cave ceiling. We rested till 3 and then went to swim. At the base of the mountain is where the river disappears into a cave. The water wasn't flowing but it was deeper and better for swimming. Again at dusk, I didn't see the bats come out of the cave. The swiftlets flying around the mouth of the cave though. The birds were more impressive than the bats!
The next morning the guys let me sleep in, though I couldn't sleep through their talking and singing and was up at 7am. We had a leisurely morning. I packed up my tent and we started the long walk out at 9. It was really hot and sunny. We reached the huge hill at 12. We climbed that and we back at the blue lagoon. My clothes were already soaked and I didn't feel like swimming. I ate a decent, well, different meal in the village before we left. Most of the food on the trek was sticky rice, spicy sauce, instant noodles, salty grilled fish, sardines, sweet bread and a bit of pork on the first day. The omelette for lunch with veggies was a much welcome change.
The scary bits of road on the way back didn't seem as scary the second time around. Lucky did a good job of driving and I felt more confidence in him. Before I knew it I was back in my room at Mouthang guesthouse. I liked the trek but was a little disappointed in the food and the fact that I hardly saw any bats on the 'bat cave' trek.
The next day I took a bus south for 350km to Pakse. I am here now and will be doing a 2 day trek to Xe Pian NPA tomorrow.
We walked back to the camp and had breakfast. After that we went on a mostly trailless walk to look for animals but saw nothing. I only saw signs of deer or wild pig in the cave to drink from water coming out of the cave ceiling. We rested till 3 and then went to swim. At the base of the mountain is where the river disappears into a cave. The water wasn't flowing but it was deeper and better for swimming. Again at dusk, I didn't see the bats come out of the cave. The swiftlets flying around the mouth of the cave though. The birds were more impressive than the bats!
The next morning the guys let me sleep in, though I couldn't sleep through their talking and singing and was up at 7am. We had a leisurely morning. I packed up my tent and we started the long walk out at 9. It was really hot and sunny. We reached the huge hill at 12. We climbed that and we back at the blue lagoon. My clothes were already soaked and I didn't feel like swimming. I ate a decent, well, different meal in the village before we left. Most of the food on the trek was sticky rice, spicy sauce, instant noodles, salty grilled fish, sardines, sweet bread and a bit of pork on the first day. The omelette for lunch with veggies was a much welcome change.
The scary bits of road on the way back didn't seem as scary the second time around. Lucky did a good job of driving and I felt more confidence in him. Before I knew it I was back in my room at Mouthang guesthouse. I liked the trek but was a little disappointed in the food and the fact that I hardly saw any bats on the 'bat cave' trek.
The next day I took a bus south for 350km to Pakse. I am here now and will be doing a 2 day trek to Xe Pian NPA tomorrow.
Bat Cave Trek
I asked at the tourist office if they had any other treks where I could camp. I have been carrying my tent this whole time and haven't used it yet. They told me there was a new trek. They just started offering it from November last year. They've only had 4 groups do it so far. The trek involved a lot of walking to a remote bat cave where it was possible to camp. This sounded exactly like what I was looking for. I couldn't convince Rohan or Mike to join me, so I went solo. It was a bit more expensive but I didn't care. I really wanted to use my tent and have been living most days under budget.
I went to the tourist office at 8am and met my guide, Lucky. We drove on his motorbike to the market and bought most of the food we would be eating in the next 3 days. There were no villages where we were going. Then we drove with all our food and gear on his motorbike to the village near the blue lagoon, where we finished our last trek. Lucky is a skilled motorbike driver and negotiated the steep and rocky parts with me on the back. I was a little scared at some times but he kept it together.
We reached the village near the blue lagoon and picked up our 2 local guides. From there we walked to the blue lagoon to have lunch. After that we had a 15km trek to the camp. The only way in and out. The trail started off level but then climbed steeply and then descended a huge hill just a steep and very rocky. This could not be done on a motorbike, maybe a professional dirtbiker could conquer it. After the huge hill though, the trail levelled out and stayed flat until we reached camp 3 hours later. The trail was through very dry forest.
The camp consisted of an open air one room bungalow on stilts and a outhouse. I set up my tent beside the hut. The camp was at the end of a flat and narrow penisula shaped piece of land surround on 3 sides by karst mountains. It was a great location. I wanted to clean myself up after the long and sweaty hike but was a little disappointed at the 'stream'. It was more like a pond than a stream. The water had dried up downstream and the river was no longer flowing. It was shallow and there were plants growing all in it. I managed to get a bucket and get though.
I was hoping to see the bats come out of the cave at dusk but they never did. After it got dark I could hear them but not see them. This was a little disappointing. The stars were amazing though and I saw a spectacular shooting star before I went to bed.
I went to the tourist office at 8am and met my guide, Lucky. We drove on his motorbike to the market and bought most of the food we would be eating in the next 3 days. There were no villages where we were going. Then we drove with all our food and gear on his motorbike to the village near the blue lagoon, where we finished our last trek. Lucky is a skilled motorbike driver and negotiated the steep and rocky parts with me on the back. I was a little scared at some times but he kept it together.
We reached the village near the blue lagoon and picked up our 2 local guides. From there we walked to the blue lagoon to have lunch. After that we had a 15km trek to the camp. The only way in and out. The trail started off level but then climbed steeply and then descended a huge hill just a steep and very rocky. This could not be done on a motorbike, maybe a professional dirtbiker could conquer it. After the huge hill though, the trail levelled out and stayed flat until we reached camp 3 hours later. The trail was through very dry forest.
The camp consisted of an open air one room bungalow on stilts and a outhouse. I set up my tent beside the hut. The camp was at the end of a flat and narrow penisula shaped piece of land surround on 3 sides by karst mountains. It was a great location. I wanted to clean myself up after the long and sweaty hike but was a little disappointed at the 'stream'. It was more like a pond than a stream. The water had dried up downstream and the river was no longer flowing. It was shallow and there were plants growing all in it. I managed to get a bucket and get though.
I was hoping to see the bats come out of the cave at dusk but they never did. After it got dark I could hear them but not see them. This was a little disappointing. The stars were amazing though and I saw a spectacular shooting star before I went to bed.
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
The Great Wall.....of Laos!
The great wall is a sandstone dike about 2m wide and 15m high stretching over 15km. The most intact part is 8km from Tha Kek. I signed myself up for a 3 day trek but I had a day before it started and decided to visit this not-in-the-guidebook attraction. I rounded up Rohan and Mike, an American I met, to rent bicycles and visit the wall. It was late afternoon when we finally all got bikes and left town. It was mercifully a little cooler and overcast. The great wall was located on the road north to Vientiane. All along the road before we reached the best section we could see remnants of the wall. We reached the best bit and found a way to the top of the way. No one knows if the wall is natural or was man made. Mike is a geologist and his theory is that it is a natural sandstone dike pushed up from the depths of the earth but he was blown away to learn that is was 15km long. It looks somewhat man made with the slabs of sandstone being vertically cut in roughly equal sections except that there were hardly any vertical cuts. It would be impossible for these huge and long slabs to be man made and I think it's just a natural wonder like I've seen nowhere else. We took pics from the top and then went around the other side to get photos from the base of the wall.
We rode back to town and I washed clothes and packed my things to get ready for my 3 day trek.
We rode back to town and I washed clothes and packed my things to get ready for my 3 day trek.
Phou Hin Boun - 2 Day trek
I joined a 2 day trek into the national protected area of Phou Hin Boun offered by the tourist office. I went to the office at 8am and met my trekking companions. They were Marcus and Christina from Germany and Rohan from New Zealand. We left Tha Kek by tuk tuk. We drove 5km out of town on a paved road and then branched off onto a dirt road for another 20km. We arrived at a small village were we got 2 local village guides. We stopped at the local primary school for a bit and then started our trek. We reached a small cave that had 4 entrances. This cave was full of daddy long leg spiders in huge numbers all over the ceiling. As the light from our flashlights hit them, they dropped to the floor. We had to watch out not to get covered in them!
Next we come to the Nam Don Resurgence. This beautiful spot has light greenish clear water and is the source of the nam don river. The river comes out of the ground at the back of the cave that is only 20m deep. Rohan and I swam in the water. It was very clear with lots of little fish. We had lunch at this spot, which consisted of local food and tasty grilled fish. After hiking through more dry forest we reach the massive Pa Chan cave. This cave is only about 200m long but is about 60m high with a 100m entrance. We walked right through the via secret passage thus avoiding the river running through the cave. This cave was used to hide sacred buddhas during raids on the local villagers a long time ago. The cave is the site of a huge 3 day festival in February. It was really spectacular and there was no one else around. We walked past a stupa dating from the 6th century on our way to a village were we spent the night. We stayed in an eco lodge, basically one large room with mats and mosquito nets. We ate on the large balcony. After dinner we were treated to a Baci ceremony were elder local villages tied white thread bracelots around our wrists and gave us gifts of sticky rice, banana and candy. They wished us and our families good health and a safe trip as they tied the bracelots on. Shots of the local fire water, laolao, were optional. I took 2 shots and that was enough. The night sky was brilliantly full of stars.
The next morning breakfast at 8am consisted of noodles and coffee. We packed up and hiked along a mostly easy trail for 3 and a half hours. The trek was in forest along the base of a karst mountain. We came to Ban Na Kheu village were we would have lunch. The village is also the base for visiting the stunning Khoun Kong lake, also known as the Blue Lagoon. There's more than one blue lagoon in Laos but this one was different and the most spectacular. The name means 'Evening Gong Lake'. We rode on the back of a tractor pulled cart for 1km to reach the lake. At different times of the year, the lake changes color from blue to green to brown. The dry season is the best with the richest blue color. The water comes from an underground spring 70m deep. The limestone filters the water giving it the crystal clear and surreal blue color. Words don't do it justice. This place is magical.Fishing is prohibited in the lake and swimming is only allowed in one corner. The lake is about 100m from end to end. I thought it would be bigger. It's totally surround by trees with karst mountains looming in the distance. We saw some fish about 45cm long but there were many more smaller and streamlined fish almost the same color as the water. We swam and hung out here for a while. We went back to the village for lunch of local food, the main dish being freshly killed duck which they made into soup. The cuts of meat were very bony and fatty and the meat itself was not tender or particularly tasty, I didn't like it much and loaded up on sticky rice. Sticky rice is a staple in Laos and it's been a staple for me. I've been eating it most days, sometimes twice a day. It's so tasty dipping it into a spicy fish paste and super cheap on the street, 25 cents will get a huge clump of sticky rice that is more than enough for one person. I am going to have to learn how to make sticky rice once I get home.
After lunch we ride in the back of the tractor pulled cart for almost an hour. It's not quite a tractor that pulls the cart but a oversized rototiller type machine without blades and handles that extend 2m. I saw them all over Myanmar and Laos, usually used to haul heavy local loads of produce or local people. The road became very rough at this point and we had to get off and walk for 2km. The tractor went back to the village as after the road became more passable, a tuk tuk was waiting for us on the other side. The road was very rocky and went up and down some huge hills. I wondered how any vehicle could get across this stretch. We met out tuk tuk and we back in town after another hour. I went back to Mouthang guesthouse. I raved about it to everyone and they all came with me to get a room. Unfortunately they only had one room left and I took it. I ate dinner at the local food stalls along the Mekong. Tha Kek is one of the cheapest places to get food. A large and meaty skewer of pork and a huge clump of sticky rice with sauce is less than one dollar. Beerlao, the local brew, is also the cheapest I've seen anywhere, just under one dollar. It's usually about $1.20 for a 650ml bottle.
Next we come to the Nam Don Resurgence. This beautiful spot has light greenish clear water and is the source of the nam don river. The river comes out of the ground at the back of the cave that is only 20m deep. Rohan and I swam in the water. It was very clear with lots of little fish. We had lunch at this spot, which consisted of local food and tasty grilled fish. After hiking through more dry forest we reach the massive Pa Chan cave. This cave is only about 200m long but is about 60m high with a 100m entrance. We walked right through the via secret passage thus avoiding the river running through the cave. This cave was used to hide sacred buddhas during raids on the local villagers a long time ago. The cave is the site of a huge 3 day festival in February. It was really spectacular and there was no one else around. We walked past a stupa dating from the 6th century on our way to a village were we spent the night. We stayed in an eco lodge, basically one large room with mats and mosquito nets. We ate on the large balcony. After dinner we were treated to a Baci ceremony were elder local villages tied white thread bracelots around our wrists and gave us gifts of sticky rice, banana and candy. They wished us and our families good health and a safe trip as they tied the bracelots on. Shots of the local fire water, laolao, were optional. I took 2 shots and that was enough. The night sky was brilliantly full of stars.
The next morning breakfast at 8am consisted of noodles and coffee. We packed up and hiked along a mostly easy trail for 3 and a half hours. The trek was in forest along the base of a karst mountain. We came to Ban Na Kheu village were we would have lunch. The village is also the base for visiting the stunning Khoun Kong lake, also known as the Blue Lagoon. There's more than one blue lagoon in Laos but this one was different and the most spectacular. The name means 'Evening Gong Lake'. We rode on the back of a tractor pulled cart for 1km to reach the lake. At different times of the year, the lake changes color from blue to green to brown. The dry season is the best with the richest blue color. The water comes from an underground spring 70m deep. The limestone filters the water giving it the crystal clear and surreal blue color. Words don't do it justice. This place is magical.Fishing is prohibited in the lake and swimming is only allowed in one corner. The lake is about 100m from end to end. I thought it would be bigger. It's totally surround by trees with karst mountains looming in the distance. We saw some fish about 45cm long but there were many more smaller and streamlined fish almost the same color as the water. We swam and hung out here for a while. We went back to the village for lunch of local food, the main dish being freshly killed duck which they made into soup. The cuts of meat were very bony and fatty and the meat itself was not tender or particularly tasty, I didn't like it much and loaded up on sticky rice. Sticky rice is a staple in Laos and it's been a staple for me. I've been eating it most days, sometimes twice a day. It's so tasty dipping it into a spicy fish paste and super cheap on the street, 25 cents will get a huge clump of sticky rice that is more than enough for one person. I am going to have to learn how to make sticky rice once I get home.
After lunch we ride in the back of the tractor pulled cart for almost an hour. It's not quite a tractor that pulls the cart but a oversized rototiller type machine without blades and handles that extend 2m. I saw them all over Myanmar and Laos, usually used to haul heavy local loads of produce or local people. The road became very rough at this point and we had to get off and walk for 2km. The tractor went back to the village as after the road became more passable, a tuk tuk was waiting for us on the other side. The road was very rocky and went up and down some huge hills. I wondered how any vehicle could get across this stretch. We met out tuk tuk and we back in town after another hour. I went back to Mouthang guesthouse. I raved about it to everyone and they all came with me to get a room. Unfortunately they only had one room left and I took it. I ate dinner at the local food stalls along the Mekong. Tha Kek is one of the cheapest places to get food. A large and meaty skewer of pork and a huge clump of sticky rice with sauce is less than one dollar. Beerlao, the local brew, is also the cheapest I've seen anywhere, just under one dollar. It's usually about $1.20 for a 650ml bottle.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Tham Kong Lo
I misunderstood the guidebook and thought I could do a trek to Tham Kong Lo cave from Tha Kek, where I am now. Turns out they meant it could be done from a village closer to the cave so I have to do a bit of backtracking. I only planned on spending one night out to see the cave, so I stored my large pack at the guesthouse. It's so nice to just travel with a daypack. I got to the local bus station at 6.40am and got the front seat of the pickup. It left on time at 7.30 and followed the road back towards Vientiane for 100km. At Veing Kham, we turned east and the flat road now twisted and climbed around the karst mountains.
We arrived in the small village of Khoun Kahm at 11.30. The journey time was exactly 4 hours like the tourist office said it would be. They dropped me off at the pickup station for Kong Lo. A woman there said the next pickup would be leaving at 1. I went to the tourist office to find out any new info but they guy wasn't much help. He wanted me to rent a moto and guide to go to the cave. I asked about public transport but he said it only went in the morning. I told him they just told me it was leaving at one. Oh, he didn't know about his he said! I also asked about hitching there and he said that was impossible! I ate some lunch and then went back to the pickup station. Just before we left at one, an Australian couple joined us.
The 42km road to the cave was new and in great condition. We went to the end of the line, the road just finishes and becomes a track. We startin walking here. It was only a few minutes through shady forest to the boat launch. The boat launch was very quiet with hardly anyone around. This wasn't what I was picturing. I thought it would be busier with maybe a restaurant or guesthouse but no, this was very low key. I shared the boat with Pete and Jane, the Aussies. 3 people were allowed to share one boat.
The entrance to the cave was kind of large but you would never know that the river ran for 7.5km through the cave. Tham Kong Lo is one of the natural wonders in Laos. I had done a boat trip into a river cave before on Palawan in The Philippines but they only allowed you to go in for 1km. Here we would be going in one end and out the other. The boats were smartly parked inside the cave. After going a few minutes the cave really opened up and was at least 100m high and just as wide. The cave was very wide most of the way but sometimes became low, especially when we had to hug the side to stay in the deeper water. It being the dry season the water was low and we had to disembark and wade through the water at the really shallow bits. This was a lot of fun. At one point we stopped and walked up to a dry area. They turned on the lights for us to reveal some spectacular formations. We walked around here for a bit and then it was back to the boat. It took an hour to get through the cave. It was cool feeling when we finally emerged from the darkness into the light on the other side into a valley surrounded by karst. We parked here for a bit. There were a few stalls selling snacks.
On the way back through the cave we saw a few local boats coming through with goods, passengers and even a motorbike on the canoe! I thought there was an easier way to get to the village on the other side of the mountain but I guess not. Locals hid on this other side fleeing persecution in the early 1900's. The way back was bit faster because we were going with the current. The driver would try and speed up to grind over the rocky shallow parts. Sometimes this worked but we still had to get out and walk at times. We arrived back at our starting point 2 hours later. We were litterally the last people there. Everyone had packed up and left. Now I had to find accommodation.
Pete and Jane were looking for a homestay because they had never done that before. I was looking for a guesthouse. They left to go in the village and I just kept walking till I hit a small guesthouse at the outskirts of the village. It was a small place with a bamboo bungalow housing 2 rooms and 2 bathrooms. I got my own room for $3.50. It was small and simple but it was private and the price was right.
I read a bit before dinner at 6.30. Dinner was sticky rice, some spice to dip it into and buffalo meat, it was all very tasty. I sat on my porch in the evening. The night sky out here was amazing.
The next morning my plan was to get up at 8, have a leisurely breakfast and then catch the pickup back to Koun Kahm at 9, but that didn't happen. The owner of the guesthouse spoke a little english and told me the pickup was to go at 9, but as I got up at 8, somehow sleeping off and on through the table saws and roosters, he said he made a mistake and I would have to go in 5 minutes! There goes breakfast! The pickup was virtually empty as we went back and it seemed kind of like a private ride for myself but when we got to Koun Kahm, I just had to pay the same price. It was 9.15 and I was told the pickup back to Tha Kek left at 10. I had time so I went and ate breakfast just down the road. I came back at 9.45 and they motioned that the pickup had already gone! This was annoying but I knew how to deal with it and was kind of ready for something like this. Koun Kahm lies on the main Rt. 8 connecting eastern Laos Vietnam to the main artery of Laos Rt. 13.I just had to get transport the 40km to Viengkahm at the junction and then it would be easy to get any bus going south.
I stuck out my thumb and began to hitch. Sometimes I would hold out my hand and wave in a downward motion as is polite to do in Asia when hailing a person or taxi. Holding your hand upright, like we do in the west, is considered rude here. The one problem with holding my thumb out, and I've had this happen in other countries while hitching, is that people think you are just saying 'hi' or ' everything is cool'. Then they wave and just keep going! I waited about 10 minutes before a guy is a new, air conditioned pickup gave me a ride....for about 2 minutes. I'm not sure why he dropped me off but he did and I was back where I started, though a little down the road. Minutes later an old, dirty small pickup stopped. They were going all the way to Tha Kek. I hopped in the dusty and dirt back and tried to get comfortable. They drove really fast and it was a bit hairy hanging on while we negotiated Rt. 8, once we got to Rt. 13, it was smooth sailing. They drove really fast too. What took 4 hours there took less than 2 coming back. They dropped me in the middle of town and drove off...free ride! I took a room back at Phoukanna guesthouse and relaxed.
We arrived in the small village of Khoun Kahm at 11.30. The journey time was exactly 4 hours like the tourist office said it would be. They dropped me off at the pickup station for Kong Lo. A woman there said the next pickup would be leaving at 1. I went to the tourist office to find out any new info but they guy wasn't much help. He wanted me to rent a moto and guide to go to the cave. I asked about public transport but he said it only went in the morning. I told him they just told me it was leaving at one. Oh, he didn't know about his he said! I also asked about hitching there and he said that was impossible! I ate some lunch and then went back to the pickup station. Just before we left at one, an Australian couple joined us.
The 42km road to the cave was new and in great condition. We went to the end of the line, the road just finishes and becomes a track. We startin walking here. It was only a few minutes through shady forest to the boat launch. The boat launch was very quiet with hardly anyone around. This wasn't what I was picturing. I thought it would be busier with maybe a restaurant or guesthouse but no, this was very low key. I shared the boat with Pete and Jane, the Aussies. 3 people were allowed to share one boat.
The entrance to the cave was kind of large but you would never know that the river ran for 7.5km through the cave. Tham Kong Lo is one of the natural wonders in Laos. I had done a boat trip into a river cave before on Palawan in The Philippines but they only allowed you to go in for 1km. Here we would be going in one end and out the other. The boats were smartly parked inside the cave. After going a few minutes the cave really opened up and was at least 100m high and just as wide. The cave was very wide most of the way but sometimes became low, especially when we had to hug the side to stay in the deeper water. It being the dry season the water was low and we had to disembark and wade through the water at the really shallow bits. This was a lot of fun. At one point we stopped and walked up to a dry area. They turned on the lights for us to reveal some spectacular formations. We walked around here for a bit and then it was back to the boat. It took an hour to get through the cave. It was cool feeling when we finally emerged from the darkness into the light on the other side into a valley surrounded by karst. We parked here for a bit. There were a few stalls selling snacks.
On the way back through the cave we saw a few local boats coming through with goods, passengers and even a motorbike on the canoe! I thought there was an easier way to get to the village on the other side of the mountain but I guess not. Locals hid on this other side fleeing persecution in the early 1900's. The way back was bit faster because we were going with the current. The driver would try and speed up to grind over the rocky shallow parts. Sometimes this worked but we still had to get out and walk at times. We arrived back at our starting point 2 hours later. We were litterally the last people there. Everyone had packed up and left. Now I had to find accommodation.
Pete and Jane were looking for a homestay because they had never done that before. I was looking for a guesthouse. They left to go in the village and I just kept walking till I hit a small guesthouse at the outskirts of the village. It was a small place with a bamboo bungalow housing 2 rooms and 2 bathrooms. I got my own room for $3.50. It was small and simple but it was private and the price was right.
I read a bit before dinner at 6.30. Dinner was sticky rice, some spice to dip it into and buffalo meat, it was all very tasty. I sat on my porch in the evening. The night sky out here was amazing.
The next morning my plan was to get up at 8, have a leisurely breakfast and then catch the pickup back to Koun Kahm at 9, but that didn't happen. The owner of the guesthouse spoke a little english and told me the pickup was to go at 9, but as I got up at 8, somehow sleeping off and on through the table saws and roosters, he said he made a mistake and I would have to go in 5 minutes! There goes breakfast! The pickup was virtually empty as we went back and it seemed kind of like a private ride for myself but when we got to Koun Kahm, I just had to pay the same price. It was 9.15 and I was told the pickup back to Tha Kek left at 10. I had time so I went and ate breakfast just down the road. I came back at 9.45 and they motioned that the pickup had already gone! This was annoying but I knew how to deal with it and was kind of ready for something like this. Koun Kahm lies on the main Rt. 8 connecting eastern Laos Vietnam to the main artery of Laos Rt. 13.I just had to get transport the 40km to Viengkahm at the junction and then it would be easy to get any bus going south.
I stuck out my thumb and began to hitch. Sometimes I would hold out my hand and wave in a downward motion as is polite to do in Asia when hailing a person or taxi. Holding your hand upright, like we do in the west, is considered rude here. The one problem with holding my thumb out, and I've had this happen in other countries while hitching, is that people think you are just saying 'hi' or ' everything is cool'. Then they wave and just keep going! I waited about 10 minutes before a guy is a new, air conditioned pickup gave me a ride....for about 2 minutes. I'm not sure why he dropped me off but he did and I was back where I started, though a little down the road. Minutes later an old, dirty small pickup stopped. They were going all the way to Tha Kek. I hopped in the dusty and dirt back and tried to get comfortable. They drove really fast and it was a bit hairy hanging on while we negotiated Rt. 8, once we got to Rt. 13, it was smooth sailing. They drove really fast too. What took 4 hours there took less than 2 coming back. They dropped me in the middle of town and drove off...free ride! I took a room back at Phoukanna guesthouse and relaxed.
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Rt. 12 caves, Part 2
I got up at 8.30 and ate again at the Sabaidee restaurant. I wanted to rent a bicycle today and visit 2 caves I missed yesterday. It proved difficult to rent a bike. Tha Kek is the first place I've been in Laos that isn't stocked with foreigners. I like that but it does mean certain things can be harder to find due to less demand. I finally found a bike at the tourist info office but it had a flat. I waited for the guy to go out and get a new tube. The bike only had one gear but road okay and the seat was soft. The first cave I went to was about 3.5 km from town. It's called Ban Tham and has a huge entrance on the sheer cliff of karst. There was no one around and no entrance fee. The cave had a gigantic opening but wasn't very deep. There were many buddhas and places to worship. I took a different trail back to the main road. Along the way I discovered the local shooting range. I couldn't hear the gunshots from the cave but as I road past and got further away, the sound of the shots carried around and bounced off the karst and sounded surreal.
I got back to the main road and had to ride back towards town, the trail led me too far. I took the turn off to Pha Pa cave but then it was 8.5km on a dirt road to the cave. The road was okay and I was making good time. I even passed a tuk tuk on the way. I arrived at the cave 30 minutes later. This cave was discovered by a local who climbed 15m up a vine hoping to eat the bats he had seen coming out of the cave. What he discovered was a cave containing 229 bronze buddha statues. Experts believe they are about 600 years old. There is a concrete staircase to the entrance now. The cave was quite interesting even without the buddhas. It wasn't very large but was filled with many other modern artifacts of worship besides the buddhas. 2 locals spen the day in the cave keeping the rules and selling flowers and items to be placed before buddha. The main rule that affected me was that no photos were allowed. This was a pity, this was a cool and unique cave but I guess it will preserve them better.
Outside the cave was a clear lagoon with a river running into the cave. Swimming was not allowed but I could take a boat into the cave for 50 cents. I hired the boatman and he paddled us into the cave. This was really fun and even more so when the cave became really low and narrow. We went in till the river allowed. It continued but was very tight. Near the cave were various vendors selling food and drink. This was mostly a local place and I didn't see any other foreigners. I had some soup and then started riding back. I dropped off my bike at the tourism office around 5. I was tired and dirty. I washed clothes and myself and then relaxed. I ate another delicouse bbq dinner. My next plan was to take a bus to Tham Kong Lo, a river that runs 7.5km through a cave. It's possible to take a boat all the way through. Now we're talking!
I got back to the main road and had to ride back towards town, the trail led me too far. I took the turn off to Pha Pa cave but then it was 8.5km on a dirt road to the cave. The road was okay and I was making good time. I even passed a tuk tuk on the way. I arrived at the cave 30 minutes later. This cave was discovered by a local who climbed 15m up a vine hoping to eat the bats he had seen coming out of the cave. What he discovered was a cave containing 229 bronze buddha statues. Experts believe they are about 600 years old. There is a concrete staircase to the entrance now. The cave was quite interesting even without the buddhas. It wasn't very large but was filled with many other modern artifacts of worship besides the buddhas. 2 locals spen the day in the cave keeping the rules and selling flowers and items to be placed before buddha. The main rule that affected me was that no photos were allowed. This was a pity, this was a cool and unique cave but I guess it will preserve them better.
Outside the cave was a clear lagoon with a river running into the cave. Swimming was not allowed but I could take a boat into the cave for 50 cents. I hired the boatman and he paddled us into the cave. This was really fun and even more so when the cave became really low and narrow. We went in till the river allowed. It continued but was very tight. Near the cave were various vendors selling food and drink. This was mostly a local place and I didn't see any other foreigners. I had some soup and then started riding back. I dropped off my bike at the tourism office around 5. I was tired and dirty. I washed clothes and myself and then relaxed. I ate another delicouse bbq dinner. My next plan was to take a bus to Tham Kong Lo, a river that runs 7.5km through a cave. It's possible to take a boat all the way through. Now we're talking!
Route 12 caves, Part 1
I got up at 8.30 and walked to town to search for breakfast. I ate the Sabaidee (hello) restaurant. A big breaky of toast, scrambled eggs, bacon, homefries and a coffee for $3.25. The internet place I've been using, one of the only in town, which has only 3 laptops, also rents motorbikes and bikes. I decided to treat myself to a motorbike to explore the caves. I wasn't sure how the road was going to be and didn't feel like a long pedal on a crap bike today. I was a little rusty at first on the bike, it had been 5 years since I hired my own moto to ride but once I started to cruise out of town, with my helmet on, I felt more comfortable. This was fun. The road turned out to be really smooth and traffic was really light.Concrete km markers lined the road so I always knew how far I was from Tha Kek.
I stopped at Tham Xieng Liab first. I parked my bike in a shady area about 150m from the road. A young boy led me to the cave for $1. There was no entry fee here. We walked over dry leaves and across a fallen tree over a river to reach the huge entrance to the cave. A small stream ran out of the cave. Once inside the cave I could see it had 3 entrances and it was never really, really dark. We waded through knee deep water and came out a different way. The same kid guide offered to guide to me to another cave nearby. I wasn't sure if I needed a guide but accepted anyway, the price was right. The cave was a minute down the road by our motos and then 3 minutes from the road. Turns out I didn't need a guide as the Pha In cave was very small. There was no going anywhere in it. Buddhas and prayer flags hung in the cave and it was an important place of worship.
Next I continued to the furthest out cave along Rt. 12, Than Nang Aen. The whole way the scenery was stunning. Huge limestone karst mountains against the richly deep blue sky. The scenery was similar to Vangvieng but grander. This last cave was the most touristy with some infastructure but was not busy. Concrete sidewalks and lights made touring the cave very tame. I still liked it though. It was huge and had some interesting formations. I noticed a river ran into the depths where the lights ceased to shine. This cave has great adventure potential. I dreamt about swimming or wading into the darkness.
It was only about 2pm and there were a few caves I skipped closer to Tha Kek but I still decided to just cruise the road more. I had a full tank of gas, I only had to top it up with $1.50 and the scenery was pulling me in for more. I just wanted to see what the next mountains looked like. I cruised 32km out of town and then turned around. I stopped at a place with a large colorful sign depicting the newly discovered Laotian Rock rat. This thing was huge and I wanted to see it. The sign gave me the impression they were breeding them or at least had a few on display somewhere down this dirt road. Before going there I had to have a drink and a snack. A group of young local kids gathered around me, wanting to lightly shake my hand. The friendliest one had a grotesquely scarred right arm and his legs weren't in much better shape but he was always smiling. I showed them all how to give a high 5. They loved this! I could've spent the rest of the day doing my rounds of high 5's, but the rock rat was calling. I drove my moto slowly down the dirt road but saw no evidence of the rock rat anywhere. I came to the end of the road and turned around. I was disappointed, I really wanted to see this creature. No one really spoke english, so I couldn't ask anyone either. I got back on the main road and started heading back.
I took the turnoff for Tha Falang, across the street from the first cave I had visited. The track was narrow and eventually opened into a cleared wooded area beside the river. The name means sculpted rocks and I guess I saw them, but it wasn't impressive. I headed back into town. I dropped off my bike and relaxed in my room. On top of all the other great things about my room was the sound and the light. With the shutters closed,all outside light and sound were virtually non existent. This is hard to find in many rooms. I always appreciate it when I find it just in case I need an afternoon siesta.
I went back into town for dinner but ate bbq pork from a different vendor with sticky rice and a coconut juice for $2.
I stopped at Tham Xieng Liab first. I parked my bike in a shady area about 150m from the road. A young boy led me to the cave for $1. There was no entry fee here. We walked over dry leaves and across a fallen tree over a river to reach the huge entrance to the cave. A small stream ran out of the cave. Once inside the cave I could see it had 3 entrances and it was never really, really dark. We waded through knee deep water and came out a different way. The same kid guide offered to guide to me to another cave nearby. I wasn't sure if I needed a guide but accepted anyway, the price was right. The cave was a minute down the road by our motos and then 3 minutes from the road. Turns out I didn't need a guide as the Pha In cave was very small. There was no going anywhere in it. Buddhas and prayer flags hung in the cave and it was an important place of worship.
Next I continued to the furthest out cave along Rt. 12, Than Nang Aen. The whole way the scenery was stunning. Huge limestone karst mountains against the richly deep blue sky. The scenery was similar to Vangvieng but grander. This last cave was the most touristy with some infastructure but was not busy. Concrete sidewalks and lights made touring the cave very tame. I still liked it though. It was huge and had some interesting formations. I noticed a river ran into the depths where the lights ceased to shine. This cave has great adventure potential. I dreamt about swimming or wading into the darkness.
It was only about 2pm and there were a few caves I skipped closer to Tha Kek but I still decided to just cruise the road more. I had a full tank of gas, I only had to top it up with $1.50 and the scenery was pulling me in for more. I just wanted to see what the next mountains looked like. I cruised 32km out of town and then turned around. I stopped at a place with a large colorful sign depicting the newly discovered Laotian Rock rat. This thing was huge and I wanted to see it. The sign gave me the impression they were breeding them or at least had a few on display somewhere down this dirt road. Before going there I had to have a drink and a snack. A group of young local kids gathered around me, wanting to lightly shake my hand. The friendliest one had a grotesquely scarred right arm and his legs weren't in much better shape but he was always smiling. I showed them all how to give a high 5. They loved this! I could've spent the rest of the day doing my rounds of high 5's, but the rock rat was calling. I drove my moto slowly down the dirt road but saw no evidence of the rock rat anywhere. I came to the end of the road and turned around. I was disappointed, I really wanted to see this creature. No one really spoke english, so I couldn't ask anyone either. I got back on the main road and started heading back.
I took the turnoff for Tha Falang, across the street from the first cave I had visited. The track was narrow and eventually opened into a cleared wooded area beside the river. The name means sculpted rocks and I guess I saw them, but it wasn't impressive. I headed back into town. I dropped off my bike and relaxed in my room. On top of all the other great things about my room was the sound and the light. With the shutters closed,all outside light and sound were virtually non existent. This is hard to find in many rooms. I always appreciate it when I find it just in case I need an afternoon siesta.
I went back into town for dinner but ate bbq pork from a different vendor with sticky rice and a coconut juice for $2.
Tha Kek
My next stop was the Tha Kek, capital of its province.The bus was going the next big town past Tha Kek. The road the whole way was smooth. We made a stop where I got some yogurt, peanuts and canned cold coffee for breakfast.The sky cleared up and the sun came out. The bus was just a local bus but it was comfortable enough and not full. After almost 5 hours I arrived in Tha Kek. I took a tuk tuk to my first guesthouse of choice but they had no cheap rooms with a private shower and I wasn't about the pay almost double the price just to get my own bathroom. I walked to Phoukanna guesthouse and found a room for a good price. It was large with 2 beds and private bath. It had a nice desk with mirror, large dresser and more outlets than I've ever had in one room. More outlets the better for me. I hate the super cheap rooms where they don't even have one outlet. I need to charge my ipod, camera batteries and headlamp batteries and have an outlet to plug in my external ipod speaker. I can do all that at the same time in this room!
I went to the tourist office which was just down the road from Phoukanna.It was very informative and the staff spoke good english. They had their 4 major treks published on the wall in color with a description. Even though their most popular trek was only 2 days, it did offer the most trekking and took in caves and lakes and was the one I wanted to do. First though I wanted to explore some of the area east of here on Route 12. I relaxed in my room till the evening and then walked for 15 minutes to get into the main area of town along the Mekong river. Thailand was on the other side of the wide and calm river.I ate bbq chicken, sticky rice and a beer for $2.50. I wrote online for a while and then crashed.
I went to the tourist office which was just down the road from Phoukanna.It was very informative and the staff spoke good english. They had their 4 major treks published on the wall in color with a description. Even though their most popular trek was only 2 days, it did offer the most trekking and took in caves and lakes and was the one I wanted to do. First though I wanted to explore some of the area east of here on Route 12. I relaxed in my room till the evening and then walked for 15 minutes to get into the main area of town along the Mekong river. Thailand was on the other side of the wide and calm river.I ate bbq chicken, sticky rice and a beer for $2.50. I wrote online for a while and then crashed.
Friday, January 8, 2010
Bye Vientiane
The next morning Thip and I went to eat breakfast together. She had to go back to Bangkok for work. My next stop was the small village of Ban Na on the edge of a National protected area. I took the city bus to the southern bus station. It was overcast and raining lightly at times. I rode in the back of a pick up for 80km out of the city to the turn off for Ban Na. From here I walked 2km to the village. I came here to hopefully do some trekking. I got the lowdown from the 'office'. No one really spoke english but they could give me the prices no problem.I had a price sheet from the tourist office but they said it was 2 years old. All of the prices had risen since then but from what I could tell, the standards had not. They still had no english speaking guides, and instead of a one off village fee, now it must be paid everyday. Even for one person 2 guides are mandatory. I had second thoughts about doing a trek. I could split the cost of the guides if another person arrived but wasn't sure if I was going to wait that long.
I decided just to stay in the village for the night and decide tomorrow. My only option was a homestay. I had a space on the floor of someone's living room which they did their best to make it somewhat private.Dinner was bony chicken soup and sticky rice. For the homestay and dinner and just to be in the village cost me almost as much as my overpriced hotel in Vientiane that had hot water, TV and a fridge. Something wasn't right here.It wasn't the families fault, they were very friendly and doing what they could. I just thought staying in a village and doing a simple trek would be much cheaper. The whole family went to bed at 9.
I was awoken at 7am the next morning by the TV which was right behind my 'bed'. I got up and decide to skip on this park.I walked back to the main road. I only waited 5 minutes before a bus stopped.
I decided just to stay in the village for the night and decide tomorrow. My only option was a homestay. I had a space on the floor of someone's living room which they did their best to make it somewhat private.Dinner was bony chicken soup and sticky rice. For the homestay and dinner and just to be in the village cost me almost as much as my overpriced hotel in Vientiane that had hot water, TV and a fridge. Something wasn't right here.It wasn't the families fault, they were very friendly and doing what they could. I just thought staying in a village and doing a simple trek would be much cheaper. The whole family went to bed at 9.
I was awoken at 7am the next morning by the TV which was right behind my 'bed'. I got up and decide to skip on this park.I walked back to the main road. I only waited 5 minutes before a bus stopped.
An extra day
I got up at 8 and went to the Vietnamese embassy to get my visa. I hoped there wouldn't be any problems and there wasn't. I'm not sure if dressing smartly had anything to do with getting my visa though. When I got to the office there were 5 young backpackers there with shorts, flipflops,unshaven, messy hair with their backpacks strewn all over the floor of the small office. I guess they didn't care or read about appearances being important. I have seen much disrespect for Lao values on my trip. The guidebook clearly states, as does some signs I saw around the tubing office in Vangvieng, that it's not cool to walk around town shirtless or in a bikini. Locals don't do this and expect the same in return. Many people choose to ignore this and walked around wearing whatever they pleased. I can understand this a little better in a party town like Vangvieng that gets a lot of tourists but was more surprised when I saw it in Vientiane. My second day there I was walking around and saw some tourist walking around shirtless. Sure, the weather is warm but it's not stifling and a shirt isn't that much of a hindrance. It made me mad to see this and I was this close to saying ' Have some f#%@ing respect and put on a shirt!' This is the capital city and not some beach town! I regretfully kept my mouth shut. Locals disapprove quietly and would never say anything to a tourist.
I got my visa with no problems. Visa in hand I was done my errands in Vientiane. I walked to Thip's hotel. We hung out for the rest of the day.
I got my visa with no problems. Visa in hand I was done my errands in Vientiane. I walked to Thip's hotel. We hung out for the rest of the day.
Visas and visitors
Vietiane was on my route south through Laos and I would have just passed right through but there was some things I had to do here. First was extend my Laos visa. They gave me 30 days at the border but I needed 45. This is supposed to be simple enough and my guidebook says it only takes an hour. My plan was to get the extension and then take my passport to the Vietnamese embassy and get my Vietnam visa process started. I hoped it would only take 2 days.
I got up early, well, 7.30 anyway,and started walking to the Immigration office. I had a mental map of the city in my head, the office was just off the main street but somehow I missed it. I asked some traffic police but they couldn't help me at all. I kept walking but then noticed I had gone too far for sure. I turned back and asked a woman getting her photo taken by the traffic police. Her name was Thip and she was visiting from Thailand. She was leaving for Viangvieng today but we made plans to meet when she came back tomorrow.
I went to the Immigration office, filled out the forms, supplied a photo and paid. I gave the officer all my stuff and he told me to return tomorrow. The government changed the rules, you now had to wait one day for an extension. Turns out I will be a bit longer in the city than I planned. Vientiane is one of the most relaxed capitals I've ever been in and I like it. The only other capital I liked this much was Kigali, capital of Rwanda, though Vientiane is much more touristy with internet, hotels, shops and restaurants everywhere. The downtown is very easy to negotiate on foot.
The next day I went to the Immigration office at 9am, just when they told me I could pick up my extension. My passport was ready, I got my 15 days just like I asked for and was out of there in minutes. I walked to the Vietnamese embassy, about 10 minutes away. I had heard stories of people being denied visas for Vietnam and that appearance was very important. I shaved in my short, jawline beard and put on long pants and a button down shirt. This was as 'smart' as I could look. There was only 3 other people in the office. I filled out my application, supplied a photo and handed in the forms. The form was surprisingly easy to fill out with not much information being asked for. They told me I could pick up my visa the next day or wait more days with the price dropping a few dollars each day. I paid to have my visa ready the next day. I walked back to my hotel to change into shorts and a t shirt. I ate breakfast and relaxed for a while.
I met Thip in the afternoon and we hung out for the rest of the day.
I got up early, well, 7.30 anyway,and started walking to the Immigration office. I had a mental map of the city in my head, the office was just off the main street but somehow I missed it. I asked some traffic police but they couldn't help me at all. I kept walking but then noticed I had gone too far for sure. I turned back and asked a woman getting her photo taken by the traffic police. Her name was Thip and she was visiting from Thailand. She was leaving for Viangvieng today but we made plans to meet when she came back tomorrow.
I went to the Immigration office, filled out the forms, supplied a photo and paid. I gave the officer all my stuff and he told me to return tomorrow. The government changed the rules, you now had to wait one day for an extension. Turns out I will be a bit longer in the city than I planned. Vientiane is one of the most relaxed capitals I've ever been in and I like it. The only other capital I liked this much was Kigali, capital of Rwanda, though Vientiane is much more touristy with internet, hotels, shops and restaurants everywhere. The downtown is very easy to negotiate on foot.
The next day I went to the Immigration office at 9am, just when they told me I could pick up my extension. My passport was ready, I got my 15 days just like I asked for and was out of there in minutes. I walked to the Vietnamese embassy, about 10 minutes away. I had heard stories of people being denied visas for Vietnam and that appearance was very important. I shaved in my short, jawline beard and put on long pants and a button down shirt. This was as 'smart' as I could look. There was only 3 other people in the office. I filled out my application, supplied a photo and handed in the forms. The form was surprisingly easy to fill out with not much information being asked for. They told me I could pick up my visa the next day or wait more days with the price dropping a few dollars each day. I paid to have my visa ready the next day. I walked back to my hotel to change into shorts and a t shirt. I ate breakfast and relaxed for a while.
I met Thip in the afternoon and we hung out for the rest of the day.
Vientiane
I left Vangvieng at around noon on sunday,Jan.3. I walked to the bus station but the next local bus was full. The next one wasn't leaving for another 2 hours so I took a seat in the back of a pick up for the same price. The road to Vientiane was in good shape and not nearly as winding as the previous journeys I had taken. I arrived in the capital city of Laos around 4 and took a tuk tuk into the center. While we drove along the cities wide and clean lanes, I was surprised that this was actually a capital city. This would be a small city in many other countries. It was very relaxed and no sky scrapers. It was a good first impression.
Even though the city seemed okay, finding decent and cheap accommodation was another nightmare. All the places I checked from the guidebook were full, so I just starting checking every place I saw. I found a cheaper room, though it was cramped and not that nice. I ended up at Semsanthai Hotel in a more expensive room that had a private hot shower, TV and fridge. The hotel also supplied 2 bottles of water daily. Both this room and the previous room I checked, were only really worth half of what they were charging. I guess I got spoiled staying in guesthouses in Luang Nam Tha, my first destination in Laos. I use these places for comparison to all the other places I've stayed and so far, nothing has come close to the value I got there. For me peace of mind was more important than saving a few bucks, escpecially here in the capital where there wasn't much I wanted to see. I knew I would be spending more time in my room. Even with my expensive room and some creative food choices, I could still stay within my budget.
Even though the city seemed okay, finding decent and cheap accommodation was another nightmare. All the places I checked from the guidebook were full, so I just starting checking every place I saw. I found a cheaper room, though it was cramped and not that nice. I ended up at Semsanthai Hotel in a more expensive room that had a private hot shower, TV and fridge. The hotel also supplied 2 bottles of water daily. Both this room and the previous room I checked, were only really worth half of what they were charging. I guess I got spoiled staying in guesthouses in Luang Nam Tha, my first destination in Laos. I use these places for comparison to all the other places I've stayed and so far, nothing has come close to the value I got there. For me peace of mind was more important than saving a few bucks, escpecially here in the capital where there wasn't much I wanted to see. I knew I would be spending more time in my room. Even with my expensive room and some creative food choices, I could still stay within my budget.
Monday, January 4, 2010
More caving adventures!
There were still many caves I wanted to explore, so after breakfast I rented the same bike and crossed the bridge. The first caves were close to each other but I didn't think they were anything special. Maybe I would have seen more with a guide but the guide fee was twice what it was to enter the cave. I rode to the Diamond cave after this. These caves were not as popular as blue lagoon of Tham sang or Tham jang and sometimes I was the only person there. Diamond cave started out with a ladder climbing up into it. The chamber was just tall enough that I could walk standing up straight. It went up and down on some ladders and became larger. This cave was really fun and there was only one obvious way to go. The owner, whose cave was on his property, said there was swimming inside the cave but I took the cave to the definite end and saw no swimming place. The entrance to the cave had a crystal clear lagoon similar to Tham Jang. I hid my pack in the forest and entered the water. I followed it into a narrow chamber running against the current that appeared to go into the cave. Maybe this is what he meant by swimming in the cave. This passage didn't go very far but was quite narrow the whole way. I swam it to the end where the water continued under the rocks. I could feel the current coming out strongly from underneath. The ceiling was low with some rocks almost touching the water. Once I got to the end I turned around and saw a freaking huge spider (20cm/7" from leg tip to leg tip) looking at me at almost eye level. I was a bit surprised to see this but the spider never moved. I wished I had my camera. Swimming out of this narrow passage was difficult and my finger accidentally brushed the side and was cut open by the limestone. It wasn't to deep a cut but after this I doggy paddled my way out. I hung around the entrance to the cave drying off and no one else arrived.
I got on my bike and road to Luci cave, 3km away. The trail was long to the cave and under the canopy of a mostly teak forest. I passed a group of 4 travellers along the way. Luci cave had a lagoon deep inside it that I wanted to visit. A guide was mandatory but they told me I needed to be at least 2 people. The constant plague of solo travel, being only one person it's tough to do things. I knew the others were coming so I waited for them. The guide told me it was an hour and a half to the lagoon and back. It was 2.30 and I was going to go for lunch after this but could wait that long. I asked if they had any food. The guy gave me his leftover lunch of a piece of pork and sticky rice for free. That was nice of him and this would last me till later. The others showed up, 2 girls from Israel and 2 guys from Australia. This cave was fairly interesting and the ground difficult to negotiate at times. There was a few ladders to climb and some really low spots to pass through. It was fun. After 30 minutes we reached the lagoon. The chamber containing the lagoon was huge and the water so still and dark it was hard to even see that there was water in it. I came all this way and wanted to go in the lagoon. I was the first in and the 2 guys and the guide joined me after 10 minutes. The girls stayed behind. We walked to the other side of the lagoon. The water was muddy and hard to see into but was only crotch high. We reached dry land on the other side and then kept walking. We came to another lagoon were there were actually a few tubes. I hopped in one a paddled to the end of this lagoon. The cave kept going but we turned around went back. I saw the exact type of huge spider I had seen in the water cave earlier in the day and was able to get a photo this time. When we came out of the cave it was after 4. I decided to call it a day and rode back to town and returned my bike. I ate a delicious curry dinner at Kangaroo and spent the evening drinking and talking with an Irish couple and an Aussie.
I got on my bike and road to Luci cave, 3km away. The trail was long to the cave and under the canopy of a mostly teak forest. I passed a group of 4 travellers along the way. Luci cave had a lagoon deep inside it that I wanted to visit. A guide was mandatory but they told me I needed to be at least 2 people. The constant plague of solo travel, being only one person it's tough to do things. I knew the others were coming so I waited for them. The guide told me it was an hour and a half to the lagoon and back. It was 2.30 and I was going to go for lunch after this but could wait that long. I asked if they had any food. The guy gave me his leftover lunch of a piece of pork and sticky rice for free. That was nice of him and this would last me till later. The others showed up, 2 girls from Israel and 2 guys from Australia. This cave was fairly interesting and the ground difficult to negotiate at times. There was a few ladders to climb and some really low spots to pass through. It was fun. After 30 minutes we reached the lagoon. The chamber containing the lagoon was huge and the water so still and dark it was hard to even see that there was water in it. I came all this way and wanted to go in the lagoon. I was the first in and the 2 guys and the guide joined me after 10 minutes. The girls stayed behind. We walked to the other side of the lagoon. The water was muddy and hard to see into but was only crotch high. We reached dry land on the other side and then kept walking. We came to another lagoon were there were actually a few tubes. I hopped in one a paddled to the end of this lagoon. The cave kept going but we turned around went back. I saw the exact type of huge spider I had seen in the water cave earlier in the day and was able to get a photo this time. When we came out of the cave it was after 4. I decided to call it a day and rode back to town and returned my bike. I ate a delicious curry dinner at Kangaroo and spent the evening drinking and talking with an Irish couple and an Aussie.
Caving across the bridge
January 1, 2010
We've entered 2010. Too bad it's nothing like the reality in the movie of the same year, still I think it has a good ring to it. I decided to spend the first day of the new year doing a 32km loop on a mountain bike on the other side of the river. The other side of the river from Vangvieng is much more quieter with dirt roads and lots of caves and classic karst scenery. My plan was to follow a loop that got right in to the heart of the karst mountains. I had a big breakfast, rented a somewhat decent mountain bike and was off. My first stop was the Blue Lagoon cave, 7km away. The road was unpaved and bumpy and rocky but traffic was very light. According to my guidebook the cave here is famous for its blue lagoon inside the cave. I wonder if the guidebook even went there because they got this one really wrong. The lagoon is on ground level in front of the cave. No where near being inside the cave. It was a busy place but at the time, 11.30, it was mostly Asian tourists. I think most of the foreigners were still sporting a hangover and were quiet out yet.
I climbed up a steep path to get a great view of Vangvieng from the mouth of the cave. The cave is very large with a lot of sun shining in. I followed the arrows to get inside the actual dark cave. Everyone was just staying in the naturally lit part. Once I got into the extreme blackness of the cave, I was alone. I know it can be dangerous to be in spelunking alone but I did the most I could to minimize the dangers. I walked very slowly, always looking where my head and feet were going. I took time to appreciate the formations and took constant note of where I was, where I came from and what direction I was going. I noted the main wall of the cave was to my right side. If I found I was taking to many turns, I wouldn't go on but this cave was large and fairly straightforward. There was only one way to go. I kept following it until I came to the apparent end. On one side was a big hole I wasn't going to try to negotiate and the other way I could find any continuing passage, so I turned back.
Once outside the cave I joined an Aussie/Canadian couple sitting by the blue lagoon. They watched my stuff while I took a swim in the turquoise water. It was now after 1pm and many foreigners had arrived. It was getting busy and I was ready to move on. I saw many signs along the way advertising caves that weren't in the guidebook. I wanted to explore these caves so I changed my plan. Instead of trying to conquer the 32km loop on the shitty roads, I would explore more caves nearby and make it a day of caving instead of riding.
The next place I stopped had a cave and a viewpoint. I parked my bike and began climbing. I thought I was climbing to the entrance of the cave but it never came. I just kept going up and up. I was in the shade but it was humid and I was thoroughly drenched in sweat but kept on. I finally reached a half ass landscaped viewpoint. I took off my shirt and rested here. I left my shirt behind and kept going on the path with my backpack. A few locals had also reached this point and were coming up behind me. The path lead to the very top of the mountain. A little covered bamboo hut erected over the razor sharp karst was a perfect spot for a rest. It was an amazing view of the rice fields and surrounding mountains, definitely worth the climb. I stayed up here for a while and more locals arrived. It was me and 10 locals on this little platform. I was getting really hungry and made the trek back down. I had a simple lunch at 4 and a tiny place with 2 tables. My bike didn't have to be returned till 6pm so I thought I would explore a 4 cave combo called Bees cliff I had passed on my way.
The trail to Bees cliff was mostly downhill. It was really fun but I thought it was going to be tough riding it back. I got the 'gate' and paid my entrance fee. The first few caves were small and nothing special. The last cave there was a place for 'swimming' in the cave. I really needed a swim. The way into the cave was high but very, very narrow. I had to take off my pack just to squeeze through. After a few minutes I reached the 'swimming area'. The pool was tiny, about the size of a child's swimming pool you would fill with a hose on a hot summer day, but I didn't care. I put my pack down, climbed down the steep ladder and went in. I could see the water continued underneath the rocks but I wasn't about to try and do that. I'm not that crazy! I climbed out of the cave and got my stuff together at the entrance where a few locals kids were hanging out waiting to guide tourists. They asked me if I wanted to see a snake. Of course I do! It was very close on the top of a small bush. It was a smaller snake and its green color blended in perfectly with the plants. I wouldn't have noticed it on my own but as soon as I was shown were it was I was able to recognize it. I got 2 very clear pictures. I matched them to the snakes in my Guide to Reptiles of SE Asia and was able to identify the snake as a big eyed viper. There was no doubt that is was this venomous and dangerous snake. The color of it, the distinct shape of its head and the enormous orange eyes gave it away. This was really cool. Most snakes I see are difficult to identify.
I stopped at the local swimming hole on the way out and jumped off a high spot with some local kids. I got a bit lost on my way back since I took a different, flatter route. I got my bike back exactly at 6pm. Paul had closed Kangaroo Sunset for the night, so I walked into town for dinner. I ended up at a small place with 6 tables showing Family Guy. I got a beer and some local food and watched a few episodes before crashing later.
The trail to
We've entered 2010. Too bad it's nothing like the reality in the movie of the same year, still I think it has a good ring to it. I decided to spend the first day of the new year doing a 32km loop on a mountain bike on the other side of the river. The other side of the river from Vangvieng is much more quieter with dirt roads and lots of caves and classic karst scenery. My plan was to follow a loop that got right in to the heart of the karst mountains. I had a big breakfast, rented a somewhat decent mountain bike and was off. My first stop was the Blue Lagoon cave, 7km away. The road was unpaved and bumpy and rocky but traffic was very light. According to my guidebook the cave here is famous for its blue lagoon inside the cave. I wonder if the guidebook even went there because they got this one really wrong. The lagoon is on ground level in front of the cave. No where near being inside the cave. It was a busy place but at the time, 11.30, it was mostly Asian tourists. I think most of the foreigners were still sporting a hangover and were quiet out yet.
I climbed up a steep path to get a great view of Vangvieng from the mouth of the cave. The cave is very large with a lot of sun shining in. I followed the arrows to get inside the actual dark cave. Everyone was just staying in the naturally lit part. Once I got into the extreme blackness of the cave, I was alone. I know it can be dangerous to be in spelunking alone but I did the most I could to minimize the dangers. I walked very slowly, always looking where my head and feet were going. I took time to appreciate the formations and took constant note of where I was, where I came from and what direction I was going. I noted the main wall of the cave was to my right side. If I found I was taking to many turns, I wouldn't go on but this cave was large and fairly straightforward. There was only one way to go. I kept following it until I came to the apparent end. On one side was a big hole I wasn't going to try to negotiate and the other way I could find any continuing passage, so I turned back.
Once outside the cave I joined an Aussie/Canadian couple sitting by the blue lagoon. They watched my stuff while I took a swim in the turquoise water. It was now after 1pm and many foreigners had arrived. It was getting busy and I was ready to move on. I saw many signs along the way advertising caves that weren't in the guidebook. I wanted to explore these caves so I changed my plan. Instead of trying to conquer the 32km loop on the shitty roads, I would explore more caves nearby and make it a day of caving instead of riding.
The next place I stopped had a cave and a viewpoint. I parked my bike and began climbing. I thought I was climbing to the entrance of the cave but it never came. I just kept going up and up. I was in the shade but it was humid and I was thoroughly drenched in sweat but kept on. I finally reached a half ass landscaped viewpoint. I took off my shirt and rested here. I left my shirt behind and kept going on the path with my backpack. A few locals had also reached this point and were coming up behind me. The path lead to the very top of the mountain. A little covered bamboo hut erected over the razor sharp karst was a perfect spot for a rest. It was an amazing view of the rice fields and surrounding mountains, definitely worth the climb. I stayed up here for a while and more locals arrived. It was me and 10 locals on this little platform. I was getting really hungry and made the trek back down. I had a simple lunch at 4 and a tiny place with 2 tables. My bike didn't have to be returned till 6pm so I thought I would explore a 4 cave combo called Bees cliff I had passed on my way.
The trail to Bees cliff was mostly downhill. It was really fun but I thought it was going to be tough riding it back. I got the 'gate' and paid my entrance fee. The first few caves were small and nothing special. The last cave there was a place for 'swimming' in the cave. I really needed a swim. The way into the cave was high but very, very narrow. I had to take off my pack just to squeeze through. After a few minutes I reached the 'swimming area'. The pool was tiny, about the size of a child's swimming pool you would fill with a hose on a hot summer day, but I didn't care. I put my pack down, climbed down the steep ladder and went in. I could see the water continued underneath the rocks but I wasn't about to try and do that. I'm not that crazy! I climbed out of the cave and got my stuff together at the entrance where a few locals kids were hanging out waiting to guide tourists. They asked me if I wanted to see a snake. Of course I do! It was very close on the top of a small bush. It was a smaller snake and its green color blended in perfectly with the plants. I wouldn't have noticed it on my own but as soon as I was shown were it was I was able to recognize it. I got 2 very clear pictures. I matched them to the snakes in my Guide to Reptiles of SE Asia and was able to identify the snake as a big eyed viper. There was no doubt that is was this venomous and dangerous snake. The color of it, the distinct shape of its head and the enormous orange eyes gave it away. This was really cool. Most snakes I see are difficult to identify.
I stopped at the local swimming hole on the way out and jumped off a high spot with some local kids. I got a bit lost on my way back since I took a different, flatter route. I got my bike back exactly at 6pm. Paul had closed Kangaroo Sunset for the night, so I walked into town for dinner. I ended up at a small place with 6 tables showing Family Guy. I got a beer and some local food and watched a few episodes before crashing later.
The trail to
Tubing on New Year's Eve
The line up outside of the one and only tubing office in town was huge. I guess New Year' eve day is a big day to tube. Most everyone that comes to Vangvieng goes tubing, at least for a few minutes. Mike and I ate lunch while waiting in line. We got our tubes and were on a tuk tuk with 6 others for the ride to the starting point 3.5km out of town. I brought a dry bag with me to hold my camera, $ and sandals while I tubed. I was blown away by the madness of the starting point. I knew tubing was a big party with many bars along the river along the way but wasn't ready for this. It was crazy, 4 bars right near each other, hundred's of drunk people, some jumping in the water from high diving boards,others on a swing or slide. It was chaos with a terribly loud dance music soundtrack. This wasn't my scene at all. Mike and I got in our tubes and began to float. Mike only lasted a minute until he was thrown a line from a bar across the river and was pulled in. I decided to keep going. I wasn't here to party, I was here to tube. I didn't want to get wasted at 3pm. I floated slowly past all the action watching the partiers.
The bars ended after a few minutes but then more appeared. They tried to thrown me a line to get pulled in but I just kept going. It was beautifully sunny day and the scenery was amazing as I floated slowly down the Nam Song river bordered by karst mountains. The river had it's slightly faster sections but sometimes was painfully slow. I almost felt like I was going backwards! At these times I would float backwards and paddle myself to get some speed. I was nearly alone on the river. Many people float to the first few bars, get wasted and then take a tuk tuk back to town, not even tubing much of the river. I wanted to tube the whole way back to town. The river was low and had its 'rapids'. Over these parts I had to lift my ass out of the water to avoid it being scrapped by rocks. After about an hour I passed a sign stating there was still 2km to go till town!
A lot of people kayaked past me which is a popular activity here as well. On one slow stretch there was a couple floating along, a solo woman and me. I ended up paddling near the woman. It would be nice to have someone to talk to while floating slowly along. Her name was Liu and she was from China, travelling around Southeast Asia. We held on to each other's tubes for the rest of the ride. We ended just as the sun was going down at 5.20 and it wasn't so warm on the water. We returned our tubes and then met up for dinner at 6.30. Liu was a nice girl and spoke good english. We went to a local Lao place for dinner where there were no other foreigners. It was New Year's Eve and I thought we would walk around for a while after dinner but at 8pm Liu said she had some work to do on her computer and went back to her room. Now what to do? I didn't care if I stayed up till midnight or not. I can't remember the last time I actually stayed up to see the new year come in. I went back to my room and watched Crank on my ipod. It was still a really fun New Year's with the caving and tubing.
The bars ended after a few minutes but then more appeared. They tried to thrown me a line to get pulled in but I just kept going. It was beautifully sunny day and the scenery was amazing as I floated slowly down the Nam Song river bordered by karst mountains. The river had it's slightly faster sections but sometimes was painfully slow. I almost felt like I was going backwards! At these times I would float backwards and paddle myself to get some speed. I was nearly alone on the river. Many people float to the first few bars, get wasted and then take a tuk tuk back to town, not even tubing much of the river. I wanted to tube the whole way back to town. The river was low and had its 'rapids'. Over these parts I had to lift my ass out of the water to avoid it being scrapped by rocks. After about an hour I passed a sign stating there was still 2km to go till town!
A lot of people kayaked past me which is a popular activity here as well. On one slow stretch there was a couple floating along, a solo woman and me. I ended up paddling near the woman. It would be nice to have someone to talk to while floating slowly along. Her name was Liu and she was from China, travelling around Southeast Asia. We held on to each other's tubes for the rest of the ride. We ended just as the sun was going down at 5.20 and it wasn't so warm on the water. We returned our tubes and then met up for dinner at 6.30. Liu was a nice girl and spoke good english. We went to a local Lao place for dinner where there were no other foreigners. It was New Year's Eve and I thought we would walk around for a while after dinner but at 8pm Liu said she had some work to do on her computer and went back to her room. Now what to do? I didn't care if I stayed up till midnight or not. I can't remember the last time I actually stayed up to see the new year come in. I went back to my room and watched Crank on my ipod. It was still a really fun New Year's with the caving and tubing.
Tham Jang
Today I was determined to go to Tham Jang,the nearby cave that was closed yesterday. Mike was busy but we agreed to meet at 1pm to go tubing. I walked to the cave at 10.30. This cave was used by the Lao to hide from Chinese invasion a while back. The entrance was at the top of a steep climb and afforded good views of Vangvieng. This cave was very tame and set up for anyone. It was tastefully lit up with orange,red and green lights and had a concrete walkway running through it. I was still impressed though as it had some very interesting formations. I can always be fascinated by cave formations and can't get enough of them. No two caves are the same. I definitely consider myself an amateur spelunker. I explored 25 caves in The Philippines alone, my total caving experience probably extends to over 50 caves. Sure, some of them weren't amazing or large but you can't always have it all! Swimming in caves is one of my favorite activities and Tham Jang wouldn't disappoint.
After exploring the upper cave I went back to ground level and just across a small bridge was a small crysal clear swimming hole that was part of the river running out of the cave. The guidebook said that is was possible to swim 80m into the cave and that's what I wanted to do. My only concern was what to do with my backpack. I got into the water and hid my pack as well as I could amongst some rocks. The water was cold at first but I quickly became comfortable in it. I put on my waterproof headlamp, purchased just for this sort of thing, and started swimming. The cave turned right and still had some natural light in it. The cave then turned left and entered the cave proper. It was pitch black but the water was so clear, I could see rocks jutting up from the cave floor that were possible to stand on. I rested on these as it was tiring swimming against the current. I only swam in for 5 minutes and then turned around. I wanted to go to the end but was concerned about my stuff. As I swam out of the cave I got some bewildered looks from some Thai tourists taking photos! My plan was to wait here, sitting on a rock in the water, until I found someone to join me in the cave or someone who could watch my stuff.
A heavily tatooed Italian couple, Luka and Simone showed up. I convinced them to swim into the cave with me. I had the only light and acted as our 'guide'. They were fascinated by the cave, as was I. It was really cool to be in the cave in the water. We swam right to the end. The water disappeared under the rock. I drank some of the water. It was very tasty and about as pure as water can get coming from an underground cave spring. I had no ill effects later. We swam out and Luka and Simone left. I hung around to dry for a bit. I met some friendly Lao people and talked with them and took photos. I made it back to Kangaroo just in time to meet Mike at 1. We walked into town to get our tubes. It was December 31 and apparently we weren't the only ones who wanted to tube today.
After exploring the upper cave I went back to ground level and just across a small bridge was a small crysal clear swimming hole that was part of the river running out of the cave. The guidebook said that is was possible to swim 80m into the cave and that's what I wanted to do. My only concern was what to do with my backpack. I got into the water and hid my pack as well as I could amongst some rocks. The water was cold at first but I quickly became comfortable in it. I put on my waterproof headlamp, purchased just for this sort of thing, and started swimming. The cave turned right and still had some natural light in it. The cave then turned left and entered the cave proper. It was pitch black but the water was so clear, I could see rocks jutting up from the cave floor that were possible to stand on. I rested on these as it was tiring swimming against the current. I only swam in for 5 minutes and then turned around. I wanted to go to the end but was concerned about my stuff. As I swam out of the cave I got some bewildered looks from some Thai tourists taking photos! My plan was to wait here, sitting on a rock in the water, until I found someone to join me in the cave or someone who could watch my stuff.
A heavily tatooed Italian couple, Luka and Simone showed up. I convinced them to swim into the cave with me. I had the only light and acted as our 'guide'. They were fascinated by the cave, as was I. It was really cool to be in the cave in the water. We swam right to the end. The water disappeared under the rock. I drank some of the water. It was very tasty and about as pure as water can get coming from an underground cave spring. I had no ill effects later. We swam out and Luka and Simone left. I hung around to dry for a bit. I met some friendly Lao people and talked with them and took photos. I made it back to Kangaroo just in time to meet Mike at 1. We walked into town to get our tubes. It was December 31 and apparently we weren't the only ones who wanted to tube today.
Tham Sang triangle
I came to Vangvieng to see caves and that's what I set out to do my firs full day there. I met an American, Mike, while having breakfast at Kangaroo and invited him along. We rented mountain bikes and were on our way. Our first stop was a nearby cave called Tham Jang. Oddly enough though, it closed for lunch from 11.30 to 1pm, and we arrived at 11.30. I will have to come back. We then proceeded to pedal 13km out of town on the road to Luang Prabang. It was hot and sunny. The road was smooth but had gradual up and downs that had Mike and I sweating buckets. We arrived at the Tham Sang triangle and parked our bikes. We could visit 4 nearby caves on foot.
The first cave, elephant cave, was small but had some buddha statues in it. Further away down a path through dried up brown rice paddies were Thom Loub and Thom Hoi. We went into Tham Loub first. It was a nice enough cave with some interesting and sparkling formations but we didn't spend too long in it. According to the guidebook, 3km into Tham Hoi next door was a underground lake. At first Mike and I weren't planning to go that far but as we started exploring the cave we though, let's go for it. The cave was large at times and other time we had to crouch down and walk through water. The cave presented multiple options sometimes and we choose the route that seemed most likely. A river at some point had run through the cave and we followed what we thought was its course. However, before we made our first choice of which route to take, we noticed bright orange spray paint on the walls marking the way. So whenever we had a choice to make, we always looked for the orange mark to solidify the correct choice. We always went the right way, though there was only a few times were we had to choose. The floor of the cave altered between flat and easy walking to shallow and slippery pits very hard negotiate to smooth river rocks, also not so easy to walk on. I had to be very conscious of every step I made. Mike's footwear was crap and he was slipping a lot more than I was.
The cave was a steady temperature of around 26C but the humidity must have been about 98%. Our bodies were covered in moisture and I was sweating a lot. Our amateur spelunking was true adventure. We walked 45 minutes into the cave. I don't think many people do this without a guide and I wouldn't have gone this far alone. We thought we should be reaching the lake soon but didn't see anything like it. We came to a large chamber that once had its floor covered with water and we thought that this might be the lake since water levels were low all around this area. After this the way became very tight and not as certain so we decided to turn around. I was proud of us for even coming this far. The way back was easier as we recognized the route we had come in on.
From Tham Hoi we walked to the water cave about 15 minutes away. This cave was a lot of fun. It had a river running out of it and the 'cave keeper's' who took your entrance money (most cave's cost $1.20 to enter unless there are very close, you only pay for one) had tubes at the entrance. Mike stayed outside to watch our stuff and I went in first. I sat back on the tube and paddled myself to the very low entrance of the cave. Once inside the cave there were ropes that I could pull myself along on. Since I was going against the substantial current, I would have been dead tired trying to paddle my way further in. I took the ropes to their end at a small rocky 'beach'. I got out here and put my tube on the dry land and walked further in on foot. I crossed the river a shallow parts until I came to a section of the cave where it was just a wide river. Going any further from here would be very difficult so I took the ropes back and let Mike go for his turn.
After this cave it was supposed to be a simple hike back to elephant cave, (Tham Sang) thus completing the Tham Sang triangle. Mike and I took a wrong turn or didn't take a turn and we were just casually walking shooting the shit and after a while realized we were going the wrong way. I thought we were going the right way because we were following the karst mountain were I thought elephant cave was but it turned out elephant cave was in a smaller karst formation not part of the central spine. We finally found our way back and began the 13km pedal back to town. We arrived just at 6pm. It was a great day of adventure and exercise.
I cleaned up in my room and then met Mike at Kangaroo for dinner. We spent the rest of the evening here.
The first cave, elephant cave, was small but had some buddha statues in it. Further away down a path through dried up brown rice paddies were Thom Loub and Thom Hoi. We went into Tham Loub first. It was a nice enough cave with some interesting and sparkling formations but we didn't spend too long in it. According to the guidebook, 3km into Tham Hoi next door was a underground lake. At first Mike and I weren't planning to go that far but as we started exploring the cave we though, let's go for it. The cave was large at times and other time we had to crouch down and walk through water. The cave presented multiple options sometimes and we choose the route that seemed most likely. A river at some point had run through the cave and we followed what we thought was its course. However, before we made our first choice of which route to take, we noticed bright orange spray paint on the walls marking the way. So whenever we had a choice to make, we always looked for the orange mark to solidify the correct choice. We always went the right way, though there was only a few times were we had to choose. The floor of the cave altered between flat and easy walking to shallow and slippery pits very hard negotiate to smooth river rocks, also not so easy to walk on. I had to be very conscious of every step I made. Mike's footwear was crap and he was slipping a lot more than I was.
The cave was a steady temperature of around 26C but the humidity must have been about 98%. Our bodies were covered in moisture and I was sweating a lot. Our amateur spelunking was true adventure. We walked 45 minutes into the cave. I don't think many people do this without a guide and I wouldn't have gone this far alone. We thought we should be reaching the lake soon but didn't see anything like it. We came to a large chamber that once had its floor covered with water and we thought that this might be the lake since water levels were low all around this area. After this the way became very tight and not as certain so we decided to turn around. I was proud of us for even coming this far. The way back was easier as we recognized the route we had come in on.
From Tham Hoi we walked to the water cave about 15 minutes away. This cave was a lot of fun. It had a river running out of it and the 'cave keeper's' who took your entrance money (most cave's cost $1.20 to enter unless there are very close, you only pay for one) had tubes at the entrance. Mike stayed outside to watch our stuff and I went in first. I sat back on the tube and paddled myself to the very low entrance of the cave. Once inside the cave there were ropes that I could pull myself along on. Since I was going against the substantial current, I would have been dead tired trying to paddle my way further in. I took the ropes to their end at a small rocky 'beach'. I got out here and put my tube on the dry land and walked further in on foot. I crossed the river a shallow parts until I came to a section of the cave where it was just a wide river. Going any further from here would be very difficult so I took the ropes back and let Mike go for his turn.
After this cave it was supposed to be a simple hike back to elephant cave, (Tham Sang) thus completing the Tham Sang triangle. Mike and I took a wrong turn or didn't take a turn and we were just casually walking shooting the shit and after a while realized we were going the wrong way. I thought we were going the right way because we were following the karst mountain were I thought elephant cave was but it turned out elephant cave was in a smaller karst formation not part of the central spine. We finally found our way back and began the 13km pedal back to town. We arrived just at 6pm. It was a great day of adventure and exercise.
I cleaned up in my room and then met Mike at Kangaroo for dinner. We spent the rest of the evening here.
Vangvieng
The minivan ride from Luang Prabang started out just as winding as the road to Luang Prabang from Luang Nam Tha. The forested mountain scenery was always something to distract me from the constant side to side turning. After about 4 hours the road leveled out and in another hour, I arrived in Vangvieng. I knew Vangvieng was a popular place and arriving a few days before New Year, might not have been a great idea. I thought accommodation would be hard to find, so I was going to stick with the first place I found, that was reasonable. I was going to head north out of town to an Organic Farm that I heard camping was maybe possible,but as I walked there I met a German couple staying there. They warned me that there was a tubing bar (more about that later) nearby that was very loud and they didn't see anyone camping. I heeded this warning and though I would take my chances in town. I got a mototaxi to a place in the guidebook near a bunch of places, at the other end of the action in town. I went to Vilayvong (formerly Le Jardin Organic) Guesthouse and asked for a room. They had 3 types available. The cheapest, for $6, was a tiny raised bamboo bungalow with private bath amongst the garden. The room was very basic but I liked the location and the price was very right. I'll take it! I've heard of many people being kicked out of their hotel the day before new years because of reservations previously made. Hell, it's happened to before! The owner who showed me the room did not warn me of having to vacate my room anytime soon, so I thought I would be safe and I was. No kicking out for me but another couple I met staying at the hotel did get the boot. I guess the dude liked me. The room was ultrabasic, I mean just a bed and cold shower and sink, though it did have a small porch. I brought in one of my porch chairs and asked for another chair, which I got, just so I could have something besides the floor to put my stuff. The owner was friendly and accommodating.
I've found the people in Laos very friendly so far. Many people flash a big smile after you catch them staring at you or if they want you to check out the goods/food they're selling. Beside my guesthouse was the Kangaroo Sunset bar, owned by an Aussie. I went there for dinner my first night but instead of finding an Australian owner, I was surprised to find an Irish guy, Paul and his Thai girlfriend running the place. They had taken it over for a year. I had green curry and it was delicious and super spicy. I walked into the main part of town after to look for Aaron and Laura. I walked around for an hour scanning every person in every restaurant like the terminator looking for them without any luck.
Vangvieng is a small town/village in an amazing location beside a river dwarfed by scenic karst limestone mountains honeycombed with caves. That's why I was here but many other people were here just for the party. The restaurants along the main road were mostly packed. I couldn't believe how many foreigners there were here. I saw foreigners and not backpackers/travellers because some of the crowd was older and definitely not backpacking around. There is a TV bar phenomenom in Vangvieng. Many places have a TV which could be an okay thing but the problem here was that they were showing only endless reruns of Friends! Some of the them showed Family Guy which was better but none of them showed any movies, which is more of what I would have been interested in. I was glad I was staying in the other end of town were it was much quieter.
I've found the people in Laos very friendly so far. Many people flash a big smile after you catch them staring at you or if they want you to check out the goods/food they're selling. Beside my guesthouse was the Kangaroo Sunset bar, owned by an Aussie. I went there for dinner my first night but instead of finding an Australian owner, I was surprised to find an Irish guy, Paul and his Thai girlfriend running the place. They had taken it over for a year. I had green curry and it was delicious and super spicy. I walked into the main part of town after to look for Aaron and Laura. I walked around for an hour scanning every person in every restaurant like the terminator looking for them without any luck.
Vangvieng is a small town/village in an amazing location beside a river dwarfed by scenic karst limestone mountains honeycombed with caves. That's why I was here but many other people were here just for the party. The restaurants along the main road were mostly packed. I couldn't believe how many foreigners there were here. I saw foreigners and not backpackers/travellers because some of the crowd was older and definitely not backpacking around. There is a TV bar phenomenom in Vangvieng. Many places have a TV which could be an okay thing but the problem here was that they were showing only endless reruns of Friends! Some of the them showed Family Guy which was better but none of them showed any movies, which is more of what I would have been interested in. I was glad I was staying in the other end of town were it was much quieter.
Sunday, January 3, 2010
Luang Prabang - Tat Sae
I had a delicious breakfast at a cafe and then relaxed in my mansion of a room till I met Aaron and Laura. We shared a tuk tuk to Tat Sae waterfalls, 17km out of town. Tat Sae is similar to Kuang Si except the waterfalls are shorter and there are more pools. There was less water in general at Tat Sae, so the falls weren't as impressive. Some of the falls were completely dry but I can imagine in the rainy season it must be fantastic. There was less people here and it's easier to find a secluded place to swim. I walked to all the pools taking pictures and then swam for a bit. I'm happy I came to both waterfalls to compare them.
Back in town we ate at the night market again. I had a delectable grilled fish for $2. We walked around town looking for a bar we couldn't find. Luang Prabang, and I think most of Laos, has a curfew or 11.30. So when I walked back to my guesthouse at 11,the town was almost completely shut down. I stopped in Luang Prabang just to see these 2 waterfalls, and now that I have done that I was ready to leave.
My next destination was Vangvieng, 5 hours south of Luang Prabang. Unfortunately they screw you if you want to go there. A few places told me there was no local bus and I would have to take a more expensive minivan. The catch is you have to pay the full price going to Vientiene, which was 9 hours away while Vangvieng is only 5 hours away. I told the travel agent this doesn't make sense but he said that's how it is. I didn't like this, they are just taking advantage of people going to Vangvieng because they know it's a popular spot. Aaron and Laura bought their ticket at the same place as me so we could travel there together.
While eating breakfast the next morning, I saw Aaron and Laura eating at the same place. I said see you soon because I thought we would be travelling on the same minivan together but when I got to the station, they were no where around. Guess I will see them in Vangvieng.
Back in town we ate at the night market again. I had a delectable grilled fish for $2. We walked around town looking for a bar we couldn't find. Luang Prabang, and I think most of Laos, has a curfew or 11.30. So when I walked back to my guesthouse at 11,the town was almost completely shut down. I stopped in Luang Prabang just to see these 2 waterfalls, and now that I have done that I was ready to leave.
My next destination was Vangvieng, 5 hours south of Luang Prabang. Unfortunately they screw you if you want to go there. A few places told me there was no local bus and I would have to take a more expensive minivan. The catch is you have to pay the full price going to Vientiene, which was 9 hours away while Vangvieng is only 5 hours away. I told the travel agent this doesn't make sense but he said that's how it is. I didn't like this, they are just taking advantage of people going to Vangvieng because they know it's a popular spot. Aaron and Laura bought their ticket at the same place as me so we could travel there together.
While eating breakfast the next morning, I saw Aaron and Laura eating at the same place. I said see you soon because I thought we would be travelling on the same minivan together but when I got to the station, they were no where around. Guess I will see them in Vangvieng.
Luang Prabang - Tat Kuang Si
My mission this morning was to find another hotel. I got up at 9 and started looking before I had breakfast. I was finding the same story as last night except I finally found one place, in the back of a travel agency along the main street. It was called Boupha guesthouse. It was a little bit more expensive than the cheapie I saw last night that still had a room but it was worth it. The room was up on the second floor with 5 windows and a lot of natural light. The room was also gigantic, probably the biggest room I've ever had. It had 3 beds and a bathroom and cost $8. It was worth it for the peace of mind.
I checked out of my hotel and moved into Boupha at noon. I met Aaron and Laura at 1.30. There were 2 waterfalls near Luang Prabang I wanted to visit but it would a day to visit each one. Laura, Aaron and I shared a tuk tuk to Kuang Si, about 32km away. This spot was amazingly beautiful. A river cascaded into many different pools,colored turqoise and was surround by dense fores with big trees. I really liked this place. I walked to all the different levels of the falls taking pictures and then settled at a place to swim. Unfortunately, Aaron lost his wedding ring while swimming and they spent most of their time looking for it but with no luck. There was a really fun rope swing at the large pool where I swam. There was a lot of people there but they were spread out and it wasn't too busy.
It's kind of strange to see so many Asian tourists here. I don't see that in too many other countries but in Laos there are many Chinese and Thai tourists because it's so close.
Back in Luang Prabang, we discovered the night market. A local place with lots of good and cheap local souvenirs and many food stalls. We parted ways to clean up but met later for dinner. Aaron, Laura and I cruised the food stalls. There was barbecue everything - chicken breasts(heads and feet too!), pork, fish, intestines and some other weird stuff. There was also many veggie and noodle stands. I had a tasty chicken sub type sandwich and fruit shake for $2.
The main street is very touristy and popular. It's all guesthouses, restaurants,pubs, cafes, travel agencies and crepe stands. I'm still blown away by the amount of foreign visitors here. I never saw anything like this in Africa! I kind of don't like it so much. I like the less popular places but Laos in general has a lot of tourists. I will just have to get used to it for this trip.
I checked out of my hotel and moved into Boupha at noon. I met Aaron and Laura at 1.30. There were 2 waterfalls near Luang Prabang I wanted to visit but it would a day to visit each one. Laura, Aaron and I shared a tuk tuk to Kuang Si, about 32km away. This spot was amazingly beautiful. A river cascaded into many different pools,colored turqoise and was surround by dense fores with big trees. I really liked this place. I walked to all the different levels of the falls taking pictures and then settled at a place to swim. Unfortunately, Aaron lost his wedding ring while swimming and they spent most of their time looking for it but with no luck. There was a really fun rope swing at the large pool where I swam. There was a lot of people there but they were spread out and it wasn't too busy.
It's kind of strange to see so many Asian tourists here. I don't see that in too many other countries but in Laos there are many Chinese and Thai tourists because it's so close.
Back in Luang Prabang, we discovered the night market. A local place with lots of good and cheap local souvenirs and many food stalls. We parted ways to clean up but met later for dinner. Aaron, Laura and I cruised the food stalls. There was barbecue everything - chicken breasts(heads and feet too!), pork, fish, intestines and some other weird stuff. There was also many veggie and noodle stands. I had a tasty chicken sub type sandwich and fruit shake for $2.
The main street is very touristy and popular. It's all guesthouses, restaurants,pubs, cafes, travel agencies and crepe stands. I'm still blown away by the amount of foreign visitors here. I never saw anything like this in Africa! I kind of don't like it so much. I like the less popular places but Laos in general has a lot of tourists. I will just have to get used to it for this trip.
Christmas and the road to Luang Prabang
I returned from my 3 day trek on Dec. 24 and decided just to take it easy the next day. I slept in and had a big breakfast. I spent some time online and then had delicious indian food for lunch. I went for a relaxing massage for an hour. The massage place was a raised bamboo hut with 2 small rooms for herbal sauna. They started to get the sauna cooking when I arrived so it would be hot for after the massage. The sauna room was tiny with small foggy window. It was really cooking and after 20 minutes I had to take a break. I came out of the sauna drenched in sweat from every pore on my body. The only thing I wanted was a cool drink of water. What do they give me? Hot tea! I drank it and when back in and out a few more times. Now I was fully relaxed. I met Jenny, from our trek, for dinner. It was a quiet christmas night but enjoyable.
The next day I took a minivan to Luang Prabang. In a huge contrast with Myanmar, Laos has a variety of transport options between towns, where Myanmar had mainly the local bus and that was it. I opted for the more comfortable, slightly more expensive but faster minivan option, since it was a minimum 9 hour drive to Luang Prabang. Aaron and Laura, an American/Brazilian couple I met Christmas eve, where also on the minivan. Aaron and I shared the front bench seat. The road slithered its way through the mountains, hugging the cliffs. It was a very windy road with hardly any straight stretches but the scenery was nice to look at the whole journey. Once we arrived in Luang Prabang, Aaron, Laura and I shared a tuk tuk to the center of town. We searched for a while for a guesthouse. All of them were either full or asking $30US for a room! It was getting frustrating walking around carrying all my gear looking for a place. The first place we checked had a room, it was cheap but not very nice and we thought we would see what else was out there. That was a mistake! I ended up getting a room for an okay price but it wasn't worth the price. It will for one night though. Aaron, Laura and I ate a restaurant along the banks of the Mekong. There are many, many foreigners here. A lot of expensive, classy French restaurants. It doesn't even seem like Laos here.
The next day I took a minivan to Luang Prabang. In a huge contrast with Myanmar, Laos has a variety of transport options between towns, where Myanmar had mainly the local bus and that was it. I opted for the more comfortable, slightly more expensive but faster minivan option, since it was a minimum 9 hour drive to Luang Prabang. Aaron and Laura, an American/Brazilian couple I met Christmas eve, where also on the minivan. Aaron and I shared the front bench seat. The road slithered its way through the mountains, hugging the cliffs. It was a very windy road with hardly any straight stretches but the scenery was nice to look at the whole journey. Once we arrived in Luang Prabang, Aaron, Laura and I shared a tuk tuk to the center of town. We searched for a while for a guesthouse. All of them were either full or asking $30US for a room! It was getting frustrating walking around carrying all my gear looking for a place. The first place we checked had a room, it was cheap but not very nice and we thought we would see what else was out there. That was a mistake! I ended up getting a room for an okay price but it wasn't worth the price. It will for one night though. Aaron, Laura and I ate a restaurant along the banks of the Mekong. There are many, many foreigners here. A lot of expensive, classy French restaurants. It doesn't even seem like Laos here.
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