Monday, January 4, 2010

Caving across the bridge

January 1, 2010
We've entered 2010. Too bad it's nothing like the reality in the movie of the same year, still I think it has a good ring to it. I decided to spend the first day of the new year doing a 32km loop on a mountain bike on the other side of the river. The other side of the river from Vangvieng is much more quieter with dirt roads and lots of caves and classic karst scenery. My plan was to follow a loop that got right in to the heart of the karst mountains. I had a big breakfast, rented a somewhat decent mountain bike and was off. My first stop was the Blue Lagoon cave, 7km away. The road was unpaved and bumpy and rocky but traffic was very light. According to my guidebook the cave here is famous for its blue lagoon inside the cave. I wonder if the guidebook even went there because they got this one really wrong. The lagoon is on ground level in front of the cave. No where near being inside the cave. It was a busy place but at the time, 11.30, it was mostly Asian tourists. I think most of the foreigners were still sporting a hangover and were quiet out yet.
I climbed up a steep path to get a great view of Vangvieng from the mouth of the cave. The cave is very large with a lot of sun shining in. I followed the arrows to get inside the actual dark cave. Everyone was just staying in the naturally lit part. Once I got into the extreme blackness of the cave, I was alone. I know it can be dangerous to be in spelunking alone but I did the most I could to minimize the dangers. I walked very slowly, always looking where my head and feet were going. I took time to appreciate the formations and took constant note of where I was, where I came from and what direction I was going. I noted the main wall of the cave was to my right side. If I found I was taking to many turns, I wouldn't go on but this cave was large and fairly straightforward. There was only one way to go. I kept following it until I came to the apparent end. On one side was a big hole I wasn't going to try to negotiate and the other way I could find any continuing passage, so I turned back.
Once outside the cave I joined an Aussie/Canadian couple sitting by the blue lagoon. They watched my stuff while I took a swim in the turquoise water. It was now after 1pm and many foreigners had arrived. It was getting busy and I was ready to move on. I saw many signs along the way advertising caves that weren't in the guidebook. I wanted to explore these caves so I changed my plan. Instead of trying to conquer the 32km loop on the shitty roads, I would explore more caves nearby and make it a day of caving instead of riding.
The next place I stopped had a cave and a viewpoint. I parked my bike and began climbing. I thought I was climbing to the entrance of the cave but it never came. I just kept going up and up. I was in the shade but it was humid and I was thoroughly drenched in sweat but kept on. I finally reached a half ass landscaped viewpoint. I took off my shirt and rested here. I left my shirt behind and kept going on the path with my backpack. A few locals had also reached this point and were coming up behind me. The path lead to the very top of the mountain. A little covered bamboo hut erected over the razor sharp karst was a perfect spot for a rest. It was an amazing view of the rice fields and surrounding mountains, definitely worth the climb. I stayed up here for a while and more locals arrived. It was me and 10 locals on this little platform. I was getting really hungry and made the trek back down. I had a simple lunch at 4 and a tiny place with 2 tables. My bike didn't have to be returned till 6pm so I thought I would explore a 4 cave combo called Bees cliff I had passed on my way.
The trail to Bees cliff was mostly downhill. It was really fun but I thought it was going to be tough riding it back. I got the 'gate' and paid my entrance fee. The first few caves were small and nothing special. The last cave there was a place for 'swimming' in the cave. I really needed a swim. The way into the cave was high but very, very narrow. I had to take off my pack just to squeeze through. After a few minutes I reached the 'swimming area'. The pool was tiny, about the size of a child's swimming pool you would fill with a hose on a hot summer day, but I didn't care. I put my pack down, climbed down the steep ladder and went in. I could see the water continued underneath the rocks but I wasn't about to try and do that. I'm not that crazy! I climbed out of the cave and got my stuff together at the entrance where a few locals kids were hanging out waiting to guide tourists. They asked me if I wanted to see a snake. Of course I do! It was very close on the top of a small bush. It was a smaller snake and its green color blended in perfectly with the plants. I wouldn't have noticed it on my own but as soon as I was shown were it was I was able to recognize it. I got 2 very clear pictures. I matched them to the snakes in my Guide to Reptiles of SE Asia and was able to identify the snake as a big eyed viper. There was no doubt that is was this venomous and dangerous snake. The color of it, the distinct shape of its head and the enormous orange eyes gave it away. This was really cool. Most snakes I see are difficult to identify.
I stopped at the local swimming hole on the way out and jumped off a high spot with some local kids. I got a bit lost on my way back since I took a different, flatter route. I got my bike back exactly at 6pm. Paul had closed Kangaroo Sunset for the night, so I walked into town for dinner. I ended up at a small place with 6 tables showing Family Guy. I got a beer and some local food and watched a few episodes before crashing later.
The trail to

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