Friday, December 24, 2010
Do nothing Curitiba
I have been traveling for 3 weeks and have yet had a do nothing day. I have either been traveling or out hiking somewhere everyday. It was time for a day just to relax, not travel, catch up on internet and relax. Today, december 23 was that day. I walked around the city and checked out a few malls too. Christmas is huge here and there are many decorations. In the center of town is the Rua de Flores, a pedestrian only street with top notch people watching. There's so many weird things here, like a 10m Christmas tree made up of plastic bottles. Another Christmas tree was made of tons of begonias in 10cm pots. Spiderman was around giving the thumbs up, which is very popular here. They give thumbs up more here than any other country I've been to. It's just the culture, one local told me. It rained lightly off and on all afternoon. I found a decent and cheap place to have a buffet meal. I finished off my day seeing the late showing of the movie Buried. Interesting and very original movie about a guy trapped in a coffin. I wasn't sure what I was going to do the next day. So many options but I settled on the night bus to Foz do Igauzu, the mighty Igauzu Falls which I have really been looking forward to. I will arrive there Christmas morning. I hope all my readers have an enjoyable holiday season. Feliz Natal!
Curitiba Tourist Line
The included breakfast spread at the hostel was impressive - toast, buns, ham, loads of different cakes and pastries, tea, coffee and juice. I met an English couple Steve and Anna. I heard them speaking English so I introduced myself. They were really nice and had the same plan as I did for the day so I joined them. There is a green double decker tourist line bus that goes around the city stopping at 25 attractions. With the purchase of a $12 ticket, you are allowed to get off and on 4 times. It was turning out to be a really sunny day. We sat on the top level. It was cool cruising through the city. Our first stop was the Botanical Gardens. It was ok but I wasn't that impressed by it. Next we stopped at the German Forest. A little forested park with a wooden viewing tower. There are many urban parks in the city and Curitiba is one of the greenest cities in the country. It's good to see that Brazil is very forward thinking and trying to be considerate about the environment. Most places I've seen have different colored trash cans specifying if they are for metal, plastic, organic,etc.
Parque Barigui was our third stop. This was a huge green area with a large lake and running track around it. I spotted a lone capybara in the distance eating some grass. The capybara is native to South America and it the world's largest rodent with webbed feet for swimming. They weigh up to 50kg. I have seen them before in Peru and Venezuela but never in a city park. It lets Steve and I approach it pretty close before heading off into some tall grass. Minutes later though we see a group of at least 50 capybara! They also let us approach close, being used to people. It's so cool to see them this close up and I get some great photos. We weren't sure which park to check out and we were both really glad we stopped at this one. It started to rain now and was pouring when we got on the bus. The tourist bus comes along about every 30 minutes. Our last stop was a 100m communications tower with a 360 degree viewing platform. Steve and Anna decided to skip this but I really wanted to see this. It was a tiny elevator to the top. At the top was a superb enclosed viewing area. Panoramic views all around. I was glad I got off here.
While I was waiting for the bus, it started to rain more. When the bus arrived it was jam packed. They didn't put any cover on the open top and I could see a few people still up there with there umbrellas. There was about 25 people waiting at the stop with me. Some of them got on but the bus was getting too full. The doors were still open and no one else was getting on because they were in groups. I was by myself so I figured I could fit on the bus. I jumped on just as the doors closed. As I was standing there a Brazilian woman said something to me about the rain. I wasn't sure what she said so I just smiled and nodded. When the bus came to its first traffic light, I understood what she was saying. All the water from the top level rushed towards the front of the bus and fell like a waterfall at the front corner inside the bus. I had my raincoat on but my shorts and sandals were soaked. My camera and backpack were dry so I didn't care much. It was funny. The water really came down! It was intense. The woman who warned me now says to me 'You don't speak Portuguese?" She spoke a little bit of english and I told her how I didn't understand what she said earlier. We had a laugh about it. Finally some people got off and I was able to move a bit deeper into the bus away from the waterfall. I wondered why this bus wasn't set up better. Surely it must have rained on tours before? The rain was really intense now. Ssome of the streets were under more than 30cm of water! Thankfully the bus stops at the mall across the street from the hostel so I didn't have to walk far but by this point the rain had let up considerably.
I changed, got something to eat and purchased my movie ticket for Tron Legacy in advance. It's great most of the movies are shown in english here with Portuguese subtitles and the cost was half of what it is in Canada.
Parque Barigui was our third stop. This was a huge green area with a large lake and running track around it. I spotted a lone capybara in the distance eating some grass. The capybara is native to South America and it the world's largest rodent with webbed feet for swimming. They weigh up to 50kg. I have seen them before in Peru and Venezuela but never in a city park. It lets Steve and I approach it pretty close before heading off into some tall grass. Minutes later though we see a group of at least 50 capybara! They also let us approach close, being used to people. It's so cool to see them this close up and I get some great photos. We weren't sure which park to check out and we were both really glad we stopped at this one. It started to rain now and was pouring when we got on the bus. The tourist bus comes along about every 30 minutes. Our last stop was a 100m communications tower with a 360 degree viewing platform. Steve and Anna decided to skip this but I really wanted to see this. It was a tiny elevator to the top. At the top was a superb enclosed viewing area. Panoramic views all around. I was glad I got off here.
While I was waiting for the bus, it started to rain more. When the bus arrived it was jam packed. They didn't put any cover on the open top and I could see a few people still up there with there umbrellas. There was about 25 people waiting at the stop with me. Some of them got on but the bus was getting too full. The doors were still open and no one else was getting on because they were in groups. I was by myself so I figured I could fit on the bus. I jumped on just as the doors closed. As I was standing there a Brazilian woman said something to me about the rain. I wasn't sure what she said so I just smiled and nodded. When the bus came to its first traffic light, I understood what she was saying. All the water from the top level rushed towards the front of the bus and fell like a waterfall at the front corner inside the bus. I had my raincoat on but my shorts and sandals were soaked. My camera and backpack were dry so I didn't care much. It was funny. The water really came down! It was intense. The woman who warned me now says to me 'You don't speak Portuguese?" She spoke a little bit of english and I told her how I didn't understand what she said earlier. We had a laugh about it. Finally some people got off and I was able to move a bit deeper into the bus away from the waterfall. I wondered why this bus wasn't set up better. Surely it must have rained on tours before? The rain was really intense now. Ssome of the streets were under more than 30cm of water! Thankfully the bus stops at the mall across the street from the hostel so I didn't have to walk far but by this point the rain had let up considerably.
I changed, got something to eat and purchased my movie ticket for Tron Legacy in advance. It's great most of the movies are shown in english here with Portuguese subtitles and the cost was half of what it is in Canada.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
BH to Curitiba
My next stop after Belo Horizonte was the capital city of Parana state, Curitiba. I was initially going to stop and overnight in Sao Paolo to break the journey but I did not want to see Sao Paolo at all. It's just a huge urban nightmare for me that I had no problem missing. So I would go from BH to Curitiba on the overnight bus, a journey of 15 hours. The bus left at 8pm sharp but it took almost an hour just to get out of BH. The bus was nice, a semi sleeper with a leg rest that came down off the seat in front of me. They provided some snacks and water, as they should, this was the most expensive bus ride I've ever taken. We stopped every three hours or so for a break. I slept off and on most of the way but I was still wrecked when we got to Curitiba, at least 1000km from BH. I walked to Hosel Roma, about 10 minutes from the bus station. I thought I had sworn off hostels but Brazil is so damn expensive, I had to give them another try. It turns out I got my own room with 2 small beds in it for the same price as my hotel in BH. I was happy about that. It's the room sharing with a billion other people and the late partying that bother me most about hostels. This hostel was huge though and it didn't appear to be busy at all. I crashed for most of the day. I got up to eat and went to check out the mall across the street.
This mall was absolutely insane! It was huge and one of the most modern and expensive I have ever seen. This blows away anything in Canada. It's true Curitiba is one of the wealthiest cities in Brazil and enjoys a higher standard of living than the rest of the country and I could see that. It had all the fast food chains I know and some I didn't like Pizza cone. Yup, it's pizza in a cone. I wanted to try it but was kind of expensive for one cone and they were small so I had a soft taco instead. The one thing I really cared about and why I checked out the mall was for its cinema. It had 10 screens and was showing newer Hollywood movies. I was too late to see what I wanted tonight but would come back with plenty of time tomorrow.
This mall was absolutely insane! It was huge and one of the most modern and expensive I have ever seen. This blows away anything in Canada. It's true Curitiba is one of the wealthiest cities in Brazil and enjoys a higher standard of living than the rest of the country and I could see that. It had all the fast food chains I know and some I didn't like Pizza cone. Yup, it's pizza in a cone. I wanted to try it but was kind of expensive for one cone and they were small so I had a soft taco instead. The one thing I really cared about and why I checked out the mall was for its cinema. It had 10 screens and was showing newer Hollywood movies. I was too late to see what I wanted tonight but would come back with plenty of time tomorrow.
Tabuleiro to BH
Last night, Renata offered me a ride back with them to BH. They were only here for the weekend. I could stay here for another day or 2 but I can't pass up the free ride, saving me $50! After breakfast I packed up my tent but before we began the drive to BH, we stopped at a natural swimming pool five minutes away. It was a great spot and we spent a few hours here. There were some high cliffs to jump off, which is always fun. We had lunch in Conceiao before we hit the high road to BH. We stopped at a great view point, that I wished I could have stopped at on my way here on the bus. Once in BH, they dropped me off right in front of my hotel, Madrid. They had a cheap room for me and I took that.
I didn't do much else that night but the action began after I crashed. I was lying on my bed sheet for a while before I crashed and actually went under the sheet. Half an hour later I was itchy all over my torso and neck. I got up and looked in the mirror, 17 huge mosquito like bites, but these weren't mosquitoes. These were the dreaded bedbugs! I hate these things, though thankfully I don't have a lot of experience with them. There were 2 beds in my room so I went to the other bed and tried to sleep on top of the sheet. I also sprayed the bed with Deet. This seemed to help and they only bit me on my legs a little. I put hydrocortizone on the other bites and they were mostly gone by morning. Hydrocortizone is a life saver. That shit is amazing for any bug bites, rashes, redness and itchiness. Sure it's got a steroid in it and you're not supposed to use it more than 4 times in a day but I find after one application that's usually enough. That said I have some reoccuring bug bites which is common for me. Sometimes a bug bite in a sensitive area like a finger, wrist, foot or somewhere bony, last longer and get periodically itchy. I find leech bites and tick bites can itch off and on for weeks. I forgot to mention about a week ago, I pulled a tick from under my thigh on the bus to Caratinga. It was easy to pull out and wasn't that fat, indicating that it had not been feeding on me long, however, that damn bite still gets itchy now and again. All these bites and I haven't even been to the Amazon yet!
I didn't do much else that night but the action began after I crashed. I was lying on my bed sheet for a while before I crashed and actually went under the sheet. Half an hour later I was itchy all over my torso and neck. I got up and looked in the mirror, 17 huge mosquito like bites, but these weren't mosquitoes. These were the dreaded bedbugs! I hate these things, though thankfully I don't have a lot of experience with them. There were 2 beds in my room so I went to the other bed and tried to sleep on top of the sheet. I also sprayed the bed with Deet. This seemed to help and they only bit me on my legs a little. I put hydrocortizone on the other bites and they were mostly gone by morning. Hydrocortizone is a life saver. That shit is amazing for any bug bites, rashes, redness and itchiness. Sure it's got a steroid in it and you're not supposed to use it more than 4 times in a day but I find after one application that's usually enough. That said I have some reoccuring bug bites which is common for me. Sometimes a bug bite in a sensitive area like a finger, wrist, foot or somewhere bony, last longer and get periodically itchy. I find leech bites and tick bites can itch off and on for weeks. I forgot to mention about a week ago, I pulled a tick from under my thigh on the bus to Caratinga. It was easy to pull out and wasn't that fat, indicating that it had not been feeding on me long, however, that damn bite still gets itchy now and again. All these bites and I haven't even been to the Amazon yet!
Tabuleiro part II
The sun hit my tent at 8am and it started to roast inside. I could not sleep anymore. I got up and had breakfast. At 10am, my new friends and I headed to the Tabuleiro waterfall, the main reason I came here. We drove 7km to the falls on a steep and rutted dirt road. If I was alone I would have walked this road, it would have taken me a while. Plus I would have to still walk to the falls and then back again. Would have been a really long and tiring day. I'm glad to have met them and have the company. From the parking lot we had a 2km hike down to the river. The park has a lot of endemic vegetation and I found it very interesting. I'm fortunate in the fact that I like and appreciate plants just as much as I do animals. When there aren't many animals around I can get into the plants and be just as happy.
Once the trail reached the river, we had to boulder hop the rest of the way to the base of the falls. This was a lot of fun, finding my way over huge rocks around the river. The girls were pretty slow, so Caio and I went ahead. We all relaxed at the falls for a while. It was windy and the mist from the falls made it hard to get good photos. Some of the guys swam but it was too cold for me! By the time we got back to the hostel it was mid afternoon and we were all starving. The guys had brought their own barbecue and meat. They fed me generously. Though I had to refuse the alcohol until later at night.
I showered and relaxed in my tent. I could hear more people arriving and the atmosphere getting more rowdy with guitar and group singing. Now I must admit I'm a bit of an introvert when I travel. I don't go out at night to meet people or drink. I usual take in a movie if I can or just read/write/relax/ listen to music on my ipod. I didn't think I was going to feel comfortable with all these drunk strangers but I was wrong. I stayed in my tent until Caio came to get me. They wanted me down there, I didn't have a choice!
Once I got there, Lucas made an annoucement. He made everybody stop what they were doing and announced that I was his friend and I was from Canada. So much for a low profile. Thankfully there were a few other guys there who spoke english well. Many people were super wasted and it was only 9pm! I drank but stayed within my limits. It was really fun. A few people I met said I was crazy/brave for traveling around Brazil alone. Weird, I seem to be hearing that a lot on this trip! The night went late but many people were in bed by 11 or should I say passed out by 11. I had a lot more fun than I expected, I guess I was a bit of a novelty because I was the only non Brazilian there.
By spending time with locals I'm getting to know the insides of Brazilian culture but there is one thing I learned on my own and that is Brazil is a cleavage-lovers paradise! It's true, women of most ages and all colors and shapes show off their cleavage. Sure, it's warm here but it's also warm in Africa and Southeast Asia but I have never seen so much cleavage before. If you got it flaunt it, seems to be the motto here and I must say I don't disagree! Some of the boobs are fake though and they can be easily spotted. Apparently there are a lot of fake asses here too, literrally. I'm not sure if I could spot a fake ass but dammit, I'm going to have fun trying (discreetly, of course)! I must admit Brazil has some of the best people watching I've seen anywhere due to the racially mixed society. There's all combinations here and I really appreciate the diversity.
Once the trail reached the river, we had to boulder hop the rest of the way to the base of the falls. This was a lot of fun, finding my way over huge rocks around the river. The girls were pretty slow, so Caio and I went ahead. We all relaxed at the falls for a while. It was windy and the mist from the falls made it hard to get good photos. Some of the guys swam but it was too cold for me! By the time we got back to the hostel it was mid afternoon and we were all starving. The guys had brought their own barbecue and meat. They fed me generously. Though I had to refuse the alcohol until later at night.
I showered and relaxed in my tent. I could hear more people arriving and the atmosphere getting more rowdy with guitar and group singing. Now I must admit I'm a bit of an introvert when I travel. I don't go out at night to meet people or drink. I usual take in a movie if I can or just read/write/relax/ listen to music on my ipod. I didn't think I was going to feel comfortable with all these drunk strangers but I was wrong. I stayed in my tent until Caio came to get me. They wanted me down there, I didn't have a choice!
Once I got there, Lucas made an annoucement. He made everybody stop what they were doing and announced that I was his friend and I was from Canada. So much for a low profile. Thankfully there were a few other guys there who spoke english well. Many people were super wasted and it was only 9pm! I drank but stayed within my limits. It was really fun. A few people I met said I was crazy/brave for traveling around Brazil alone. Weird, I seem to be hearing that a lot on this trip! The night went late but many people were in bed by 11 or should I say passed out by 11. I had a lot more fun than I expected, I guess I was a bit of a novelty because I was the only non Brazilian there.
By spending time with locals I'm getting to know the insides of Brazilian culture but there is one thing I learned on my own and that is Brazil is a cleavage-lovers paradise! It's true, women of most ages and all colors and shapes show off their cleavage. Sure, it's warm here but it's also warm in Africa and Southeast Asia but I have never seen so much cleavage before. If you got it flaunt it, seems to be the motto here and I must say I don't disagree! Some of the boobs are fake though and they can be easily spotted. Apparently there are a lot of fake asses here too, literrally. I'm not sure if I could spot a fake ass but dammit, I'm going to have fun trying (discreetly, of course)! I must admit Brazil has some of the best people watching I've seen anywhere due to the racially mixed society. There's all combinations here and I really appreciate the diversity.
Monday, December 20, 2010
Tabuleiro
My 1pm bus left on time. I was heading to Tabuleiro but the bus only went as far as Conceiao do Mato Dentro. We headed north out of BH. The road was flat for a while but then climbed gradually into a moutain range covered with grass and scrub brush. As we got near the top there were some amazing views. We came down the other side and after just over 3 hours arrived in Conceiao. There was a bus from here to Tabuleiro but they only run at certain times and I already missed it. I had to get a taxi the final 18km. The road was paved but we soon left that for a rutted and steep red soil road. I arrived at Tabuleiro Eco Hostel and set up my tent. There were a few shady grassy terraces for camping, though I couldn't pitch my tent exactly where I wanted due to huge piles of horse shit around. There were horses, chickens and dogs around here roaming free, it seemed. I ate and showered and then hung out.
A group of locals from BH arrived and pitched a tent as well. They spoke some english. After dinner I came to my tent after checking out the stars when the group called me over to them. They were barbecuing and drinking and wanted me to join them. They were Philip, Caio, Lucas and his girlfriend, Renata. They all spoke different degrees of english, understanding more than they could speak but it was Renata who was modestly fluent in english. I talked with her the most or she translated for everyone. Lucas had an accoustic guitar and was belting out cover tunes in english and portuguese. They wanted me to play so I played them a few of my own tunes. It's funny, Lucas only plays cover songs where as I play only my own songs! I don't have the talent, patience or desire to learn any other songs. I'm happy just writing my own stuff. The night went late and I had to refuse plenty of alcohol. I got kind of drunk but didn't want to get super wasted like they were. My tolerance is very low. After I went to bed they stayed up drinking and playing guitar.
A group of locals from BH arrived and pitched a tent as well. They spoke some english. After dinner I came to my tent after checking out the stars when the group called me over to them. They were barbecuing and drinking and wanted me to join them. They were Philip, Caio, Lucas and his girlfriend, Renata. They all spoke different degrees of english, understanding more than they could speak but it was Renata who was modestly fluent in english. I talked with her the most or she translated for everyone. Lucas had an accoustic guitar and was belting out cover tunes in english and portuguese. They wanted me to play so I played them a few of my own tunes. It's funny, Lucas only plays cover songs where as I play only my own songs! I don't have the talent, patience or desire to learn any other songs. I'm happy just writing my own stuff. The night went late and I had to refuse plenty of alcohol. I got kind of drunk but didn't want to get super wasted like they were. My tolerance is very low. After I went to bed they stayed up drinking and playing guitar.
Caratinga to BH
Thankfully when I got up today, Taty had better and more concrete news for me. The bus to Caratinga went by at 11.30 and there was a 4pm bus from Caratinga to BH. That was a lot better. I had a relaxing morning was able to dry most of my stuff in the sun. I got to the main road with plenty of time. The bus passed on time and I arrived in Caratinga around 2pm. I ate, read and waited. The bus left on time at 4 as most buses here are very punctual. The bus system is actually pretty organized, planned and civil here. No worries about getting ripped off or losing baggage. Everyone buys a ticket before boarding and they give you a sticker for your stored luggage with a corresponding number on your ticket so no one can claim your bag but you. It was a steady 6 hours back to BH. I went back to Madrid hotel across from the bus station but they didn't have any cheaper rooms available. I had to go with the next step up which was $10 more. I could see where the extra money went. I had a fan, private bathroom, TV and a view of a concrete wall out my window. I know, doesn't sound nice but all the cheap rooms face the street and the noise of the bus station so this room was super quiet. Unfortunately, there was no english channels but it was nice to have a fan. I could wash my clothes and they would be dry be tomorrow because I have a 1pm bus to Tabuleiro.
Caratinga part IV
The rain had stopped by morning. I got up a little later because after talking with the researchers about getting a guide, I had a feeling no one would be taking me out today and that's ok. They said I don't need a guide here but the guide is excellent. I could see the trails around the station and thought I could hike them alone and save on money for a guide. Only Taty and Zito were still around when I got up. I had breakfast and started hiking the road to a viewing tower that Zito gave me directions to. At first I passed the turnoff but then came back and eventually found the tower. It was a large wooden tower, 3 stories high but not much to see from it. I hung out here a while anyway. I went back in the afternoon for lunch. Just before I was going to go out again, it started to rain. It stopped and I went back out but not too far because I thought it would rain again and it did. I could hear it coming so I started running down the road but then it got really heavy and I had to duck under some trees. I was only one minute from camp but I didn't know at the time. I don't mind getting wet, I had my stuff dry in my pack but the only problem is drying stuff out after it rains or if it keeps raining. I was leaving the next day and hate to pack wet clothes for an 8 hour plus trip back to BH.
That night I asked about transport back to BH. It wasn't easy getting the 2 buses to connect. They weren't even sure when the buses went. At first they said the only bus from Caratinga to BH was at midnight and I could only get to Caratinga around 4pm! This all was sound like a helluva long day waiting around but I would figure it out tomorrow.
That night I asked about transport back to BH. It wasn't easy getting the 2 buses to connect. They weren't even sure when the buses went. At first they said the only bus from Caratinga to BH was at midnight and I could only get to Caratinga around 4pm! This all was sound like a helluva long day waiting around but I would figure it out tomorrow.
Caratinga part III
I woke up a little earlier this morning. I didn't want to keep anyone waiting for me. There was a new researcher here this morning, well, new for me anyway. Her name was Ingrid and she seemed to speak and understand english the best, though it was far from fluent. She asked if I wanted to join her and Zito in the forest and I did. Their study group is further away and we had to drive there on a steep and rutted road. We found their group and followed them up and down some steep hills. The group stopped to rest around noon so we did too. We were there for a while and didn't hear or see the group anymore. We looked for them but couldn't find them. While we were looking for them, we weren't on a trail sometimes. We were bushwaching our way up very steep forested hills. I rested when Zito and Ingrid did and hiked when they were ready. I never needed any more rest and they called me very strong. We waited and listened for muriquis for over an hour. Though we weren't hiking up and gruelling trails, it was just as difficult waiting due to the insects. There were tons of mosquitoes, small biting flies and other flies that don't bite but crawl all over you. I had brought some citronella repellant but it didn't work well. There no restful moments. We were all constantly swatting and slapping some bug or another. I liked to be on the move, because it took a few minutes for the bugs to find us once we stopped.
After a while, Zito and Ingrid, who were 24 and 25 and also married, admitted that they lost the group. We would go to a few lookout points and then back to the jeep. The lookout points were great and bug free! We spotted a troupe of muriquis later but they were on a steep hill were thick brush underneath. Too thick for us to follow. As we walked back to the jeep,we heard chirping like calls. It was the call of the tamarin, a tiny primate and the only species I had yet to see in Caratinga. They were hyper active and bounced around the trees being hard to photograph, though I managed a few ok shots. They look like a crazy clown with a white face, bald head and orange hair coming out of the sides of their heads. Even though it wasn't a great day for muriquis, I was more than happy to finally see the tamarins.
Once back in camp a group of capuchins and a group of muriquis came through camp. I always looked camps where the wildlife comes to you. Taty came back saying she saw a cobra, the portuguese word for snake. I grabbed my camera and we went off to find it. The way I understood the story was that she was washing her face in a small, clear flowing stream when the snake appeared in front of her and chased her up the bank of the river! It was a very poisonous snake so, she was obviously scared. The snake was still there, coiled up on the bank. It didn't react to us at all. Zito got it to move. It was light brown with some dark brown markings and about 1m long. I'm not sure what it was, but I might be able to identify it when I get home.
That night we hung out in camp. We watched local news, which I only understood a bit. After that it was only soap operas on TV, which are very popular here. They shut off the TV and played cards. They invited me to play but I wasn't up for trying to learn a new card game in a language I barely understand. It was ok though. I had my ipod to entertain me.
It was around this day that a guide showed up while I was showering. No one had said anything about a guide. I didn't know if I needed one or not. Early that day Ingrid had said that they never take tourists into the forest with them. I was special, she said. I'm not sure why they took me into the forest but I was glad they did. I was saving on guide fees. It was about $30 a day for food and a bed here. Which isn't super cheap but it's under my budget. I had a feeling maybe the researchers were stepping on the guides toes so to speak because they were taking me out. Thing is I didn't ask to go out with them and I didn't ask for a guide. Maybe they didn't know what to do with me! I was the first Canadian they had ever met. I looked through the guest sign in book. It was all Brazilian visitors. I had to go back 4 months to find someone from outside or Brazil who had visited. My guidebook said this Caratinga was remote and little visited. It was right and that was one reason I wanted to come here. It's a full days journey from the nearest large city and I guess most travellers aren't willing to make the trip out here just to see a rare monkey. I'm a different story, I loved the place and the further away from civilization the better. I had comtemplated skipping the place because it was so far and I would have to come back the same way, but I really wanted to see more Atlantic rainforest and I'm glad I didn't miss Caratinga.
For being a rainforest, the place was pretty dry. Leaves crunched under our feet. Ingrid said it rained a lot last week and now it began to rain tonight. It rained really heavy overnight.
After a while, Zito and Ingrid, who were 24 and 25 and also married, admitted that they lost the group. We would go to a few lookout points and then back to the jeep. The lookout points were great and bug free! We spotted a troupe of muriquis later but they were on a steep hill were thick brush underneath. Too thick for us to follow. As we walked back to the jeep,we heard chirping like calls. It was the call of the tamarin, a tiny primate and the only species I had yet to see in Caratinga. They were hyper active and bounced around the trees being hard to photograph, though I managed a few ok shots. They look like a crazy clown with a white face, bald head and orange hair coming out of the sides of their heads. Even though it wasn't a great day for muriquis, I was more than happy to finally see the tamarins.
Once back in camp a group of capuchins and a group of muriquis came through camp. I always looked camps where the wildlife comes to you. Taty came back saying she saw a cobra, the portuguese word for snake. I grabbed my camera and we went off to find it. The way I understood the story was that she was washing her face in a small, clear flowing stream when the snake appeared in front of her and chased her up the bank of the river! It was a very poisonous snake so, she was obviously scared. The snake was still there, coiled up on the bank. It didn't react to us at all. Zito got it to move. It was light brown with some dark brown markings and about 1m long. I'm not sure what it was, but I might be able to identify it when I get home.
That night we hung out in camp. We watched local news, which I only understood a bit. After that it was only soap operas on TV, which are very popular here. They shut off the TV and played cards. They invited me to play but I wasn't up for trying to learn a new card game in a language I barely understand. It was ok though. I had my ipod to entertain me.
It was around this day that a guide showed up while I was showering. No one had said anything about a guide. I didn't know if I needed one or not. Early that day Ingrid had said that they never take tourists into the forest with them. I was special, she said. I'm not sure why they took me into the forest but I was glad they did. I was saving on guide fees. It was about $30 a day for food and a bed here. Which isn't super cheap but it's under my budget. I had a feeling maybe the researchers were stepping on the guides toes so to speak because they were taking me out. Thing is I didn't ask to go out with them and I didn't ask for a guide. Maybe they didn't know what to do with me! I was the first Canadian they had ever met. I looked through the guest sign in book. It was all Brazilian visitors. I had to go back 4 months to find someone from outside or Brazil who had visited. My guidebook said this Caratinga was remote and little visited. It was right and that was one reason I wanted to come here. It's a full days journey from the nearest large city and I guess most travellers aren't willing to make the trip out here just to see a rare monkey. I'm a different story, I loved the place and the further away from civilization the better. I had comtemplated skipping the place because it was so far and I would have to come back the same way, but I really wanted to see more Atlantic rainforest and I'm glad I didn't miss Caratinga.
For being a rainforest, the place was pretty dry. Leaves crunched under our feet. Ingrid said it rained a lot last week and now it began to rain tonight. It rained really heavy overnight.
Caratinga part II
I got up at 8am, I could hear voices at the researcher station. Vera was there, as was 3 biologist, Taty, Marlon and Zito. I ate breakfast. It was self served but they helped me. Though I couldn't understand everything I was usually getting the jist of what they were saying. Zito opened the fridge and said something, so I took this to mean I could eat anything in the fridge or use it as I need to. After I finished breakfast, the short and tiny biologist, Taty, asked if I wanted to join her in the forest. She was researching the muriqui, the new worlds largest primate and the main reason I was here. I actually saw a troupe of muriqui yesterday as I was waiting. They crossed the road in the trees right near the station. I was surprised that both groups showed no fear of me, when they saw me below taking photographs.
I wasn't sure how I was going to explore the forest, if I needed a guide or what, so I was happy when Taty offered to go with her. We walked down the road, listening for the horse like call of the muriqui. This large primate stands 1.5m tall and weighs up to 15kg. They are more relaxed than most primates and spend a lot of time playing,hanging upside down and hugging. There are only about 2500 left in the wild with only 500 left of the rarer northern muriqui, the one in Caratinga. There are 300 animals in Caratinga, representing over half of the population. Back in the 1940's there were only 8 muriqui on record here. Then a farmer, committed himself to preserving a huge chunk on native Atlantic rainforest on his property. This was unheard of in a time when everyone was cutting down their forest. Years later, the property became a park and researchers came here to study the muriqui. They have been studied for over 25 years now.
Taty was looking for her study group. She kept in radio contact with Marlon and she had GPS. We walked further down the road and got word from Marlon where the group was. The park is very hilly and we climbed a huge hill. On top was a large group of muriqui. Even with us 3 right below them, they were not afraid. One that was eating allowed me to approach within almost 2m of him! They were fun to watch and I got a lot of great photos. Then a troupe of howler monkeys arrived. Then a troupe of brown capuchin monkeys! There are 4 species of primates in Caratinga and I was right below 3 of them. I couldn't ask for much more! This was so cool. We spent a while up here. Taty and Marlon were taking notes. Mid afternoon Marlon was going back to the station and asked if I wanted to go back. I did, we had been out for almost 6 hours and I was happy with what I saw today. I ate lunch, washed clothes and took a nap. I didn't do much the rest of the day.
The researchers have it pretty comfortable here. Vera cooks and cleans for them. They have a nice living area and TV, though no internet. After dinner I watch a movie on my ipod.
I wasn't sure how I was going to explore the forest, if I needed a guide or what, so I was happy when Taty offered to go with her. We walked down the road, listening for the horse like call of the muriqui. This large primate stands 1.5m tall and weighs up to 15kg. They are more relaxed than most primates and spend a lot of time playing,hanging upside down and hugging. There are only about 2500 left in the wild with only 500 left of the rarer northern muriqui, the one in Caratinga. There are 300 animals in Caratinga, representing over half of the population. Back in the 1940's there were only 8 muriqui on record here. Then a farmer, committed himself to preserving a huge chunk on native Atlantic rainforest on his property. This was unheard of in a time when everyone was cutting down their forest. Years later, the property became a park and researchers came here to study the muriqui. They have been studied for over 25 years now.
Taty was looking for her study group. She kept in radio contact with Marlon and she had GPS. We walked further down the road and got word from Marlon where the group was. The park is very hilly and we climbed a huge hill. On top was a large group of muriqui. Even with us 3 right below them, they were not afraid. One that was eating allowed me to approach within almost 2m of him! They were fun to watch and I got a lot of great photos. Then a troupe of howler monkeys arrived. Then a troupe of brown capuchin monkeys! There are 4 species of primates in Caratinga and I was right below 3 of them. I couldn't ask for much more! This was so cool. We spent a while up here. Taty and Marlon were taking notes. Mid afternoon Marlon was going back to the station and asked if I wanted to go back. I did, we had been out for almost 6 hours and I was happy with what I saw today. I ate lunch, washed clothes and took a nap. I didn't do much the rest of the day.
The researchers have it pretty comfortable here. Vera cooks and cleans for them. They have a nice living area and TV, though no internet. After dinner I watch a movie on my ipod.
Friday, December 17, 2010
Estacio Biologica Caratinga
As it happens, Paola and Deborah were leaving Caraca the same day I wanted to, saturday, and were headed to Belo Horizonte. They kindly agreed to give me a free ride. With their ride I was saving almost $50 in taxi and bus fare, so that really helped. Once in BH I spent a few hours updating my apparently nonexistent blog. I found a cheap place to eat under my hotel. Everything in BH is within 5 minutes of my hotel - food, internet, the bank or ATMs and the bus station. It's ok here. Christmas is in full swing too! I was only back in BH for a night before I went to Estacio Biologica Caratinga. I bought my ticket for 8am the next morning.
I got up at 7am for the free hotel breakfast. I packed and was on the bus by 8. It was another nice bus with a bathroom on board. Most of the buses have bathrooms on board which I hardly ever, ever see. It was a long 6 hour ride to Caratinga on winding mountain roads. We stopped at 10am for breakfast. Once in Caratinga, I took another bus at 2.30 towards Ipanema. I told the driver I was getting off at Estacio Biologica and they dropped me there about 2 hours later. The road up to the biological station was unpaved, rough and through the forest. Once they dropped me off, there was nothing around. It was quiet. I liked it already. I hiked on a dirt road for half and hour until I arrived at the tiny research station/ visitors centre. Just before I arrived at the station, a troupe of howler monkeys crossed the road in the trees right above my head! Wow, this was awesome, I just arrived and I'm already seeing monkeys!
Unfortunately for me though, the centre was shut up tight and no one was around. I guess that's why the guidebook says 'booking ahead is essential'! But that's not the way I do most things. I like to just show up and see what happens. I walked down the road further, thinking the accomodation for visitors might be at another place but I didn't see anything else. I finally saw a girl walking down the road. She showed me a key to the research station and where I could shower. This was where the researchers lived and there was coffee on the table and food on the stove. The only thing missing where the people! I checked out the place and behind the lab/garage was a room with a few bunk beds in it for visitors. The window was open. It was now 8pm and still no one was around so, I climbed in the window and opened the door. I set up my mossie net and got comfortable. I went outside to lie on a bench and watch the stars. The moon was bright but the sky was clear. I saw an absolutely amazing shooting star. It appeared as a very bright light,not really moving fast. I wasn't sure what it was at first. It slowly got less bright and then flared up and disappeared. The whole scene lasted almost 5 seconds. I know that doesn't sound like but most shooting stars flash by in a flicker of an eye, this one lasted. Shortly after that another one appeared. It didn't last as long but looked very, very low in the sky. I could almost reach up and touch it.
At 9pm a couple arrived on a motorbike. It was Vera, who worked at the station, cleaning and cooking, and her husband. With my limited understanding of Portuguese, she said that she didn't know I was coming and that's why no one was around. It was sunday night and the researchers were out staying somewhere else. She got me some proper bedding and offered me something to eat. I couldn't wait till now, so I heated up some rice and beans that were left on the stove. She left and I would see what the place was really like, with people, tomorrow.
I got up at 7am for the free hotel breakfast. I packed and was on the bus by 8. It was another nice bus with a bathroom on board. Most of the buses have bathrooms on board which I hardly ever, ever see. It was a long 6 hour ride to Caratinga on winding mountain roads. We stopped at 10am for breakfast. Once in Caratinga, I took another bus at 2.30 towards Ipanema. I told the driver I was getting off at Estacio Biologica and they dropped me there about 2 hours later. The road up to the biological station was unpaved, rough and through the forest. Once they dropped me off, there was nothing around. It was quiet. I liked it already. I hiked on a dirt road for half and hour until I arrived at the tiny research station/ visitors centre. Just before I arrived at the station, a troupe of howler monkeys crossed the road in the trees right above my head! Wow, this was awesome, I just arrived and I'm already seeing monkeys!
Unfortunately for me though, the centre was shut up tight and no one was around. I guess that's why the guidebook says 'booking ahead is essential'! But that's not the way I do most things. I like to just show up and see what happens. I walked down the road further, thinking the accomodation for visitors might be at another place but I didn't see anything else. I finally saw a girl walking down the road. She showed me a key to the research station and where I could shower. This was where the researchers lived and there was coffee on the table and food on the stove. The only thing missing where the people! I checked out the place and behind the lab/garage was a room with a few bunk beds in it for visitors. The window was open. It was now 8pm and still no one was around so, I climbed in the window and opened the door. I set up my mossie net and got comfortable. I went outside to lie on a bench and watch the stars. The moon was bright but the sky was clear. I saw an absolutely amazing shooting star. It appeared as a very bright light,not really moving fast. I wasn't sure what it was at first. It slowly got less bright and then flared up and disappeared. The whole scene lasted almost 5 seconds. I know that doesn't sound like but most shooting stars flash by in a flicker of an eye, this one lasted. Shortly after that another one appeared. It didn't last as long but looked very, very low in the sky. I could almost reach up and touch it.
At 9pm a couple arrived on a motorbike. It was Vera, who worked at the station, cleaning and cooking, and her husband. With my limited understanding of Portuguese, she said that she didn't know I was coming and that's why no one was around. It was sunday night and the researchers were out staying somewhere else. She got me some proper bedding and offered me something to eat. I couldn't wait till now, so I heated up some rice and beans that were left on the stove. She left and I would see what the place was really like, with people, tomorrow.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Caraca Part III
Dec. 9
I woke up this morning feel like a bag of shit. Headache, bodyache, head congestion and possible slight fever. I wasn't even that hungry but ate some breakfast. I cooked my own eggs over the wood stove. Even though I felt like crap I wasn't going to let it ruin my whole day. I still got ready and hit the trail for 2 hours. I walked slow and didn't go far, I just felt too terrible. I got hungry later and ate lunch and then lied back down. I slept for a bit but woke up and didn't feel any better. I indeed had a fever of 100F. I needed something so I got up to go find someone. I asked a guy who I thought was a priest. He was the right guy to ask. He took me to the 'pharmacy' down the hall and gave me 4 pills, 2 now, 2 before bed. I took them and read and relaxed in my room. By dinner time at 6.30 I was feeling loads better. I hung out for the nightly feeding and then went to sleep. I wondered what was wrong with me. I never get this sick this early in a trip.
Dec. 10
I woke feeling 10 times better than yesterday. Whatever I had was basically gone. I was hungry and wanted to get back out on the trail. I hit the trail at 9.30. I was on a 6km long trail to a cascatona, a large waterfall. Paola and Deborah had gone this way yesterday. They said it took them 3 hours each way and they saw monkeys on the way. I wasn't quite up for an epic 6 hour hike, especially after having a fever yesterday but I wanted to look for monkeys. I limited myself to hiking 1.5 hours one way and then return to be back in time for lunch. It also looked like rain again, which it has been doing off and on. The trail was nice and it was through forest the whole time. I turned around after an hour and a half and made it back to Caraca at 12.30. I didn't see any monkeys but I did see some cool flowers.
At lunch, just like yesterday, there was a huge group of school kids here. Thankfully they only eat and then leave. They don't stay the night or hike the trails. In fact it seemed like only Deborah, Paolo and I were hiking the trails. I didn't see a single soul out in the bush. I loved this, it was like I had the whole park to myself. After lunch I took a short trail that climbed a hill for a view of the park. The top was rocky and steep and crawling with lizards. I set my pack down and tried for some photos. I sat still and was trying to photograph one lizard when to my disbelief, he started coming closer! Most lizards are skittish at best, staying still for a short time and then scattering quickly if you try to come close. Not this guy. I stayed still and he kept coming. He was literally right underneath me! This was so cool. I must stress, this never happens. Only one other time did I have a lizard approach me. I remember it clearly because of how rare an event it is. This first time was also in a transition forest in southern Madagascar. I was sitting on some rocks in my swimming suit drying off after a swim. A largish iguana, maybe 30cm long kept coming close to me. I shoed him away at first but then thought, let's see what happens if I don't move. He came right up to me, actually on top of my bare foot and was eating the flies I was attracting! I thought this was the coolest thing in the whole world. I could feel his little claws on me. I will never forget that moment. It's not often that any wild animal approaches a human. They must know the wrong human can be bad news for them.
I could hear monkeys calling loudly to each other in the forest not far from here. I climbed down and went in that direction. I took a wide flat trail that lead to a small lake. There was a small trail up the hillside through the forest in the direction of the monkeys so I took it. The trail petered out at the top of the hill but it was shady so I took off my pack and hat and had a rest. I thought I would wait here and listen for the monkeys to call again. I saw an interesting hairy red and yellow flower. I got into a cramped position to take a good photo of it. While I was doing this I was hearing a bit of movement in the trees but didn't look up because it was only subtle movement. When I did look up I saw there were 3 monkeys right over me! They were looking at me! I stayed still and tried to get photos. There were insects everywhere around me. Mosquitos, black flies, small flies, big flies and other things I didn't know what they were but I stayed still to get the shot. Finally it was too much and I had to move to put on my hat. This didn't bother the monkeys. Something even painfully bit me in the ass! I was itchy all over my upper body. The monkeys moved on so I followed them. They crossed the trail and so did I. The little trail I was on led into the forest just below them. I was following them cautiously when suddenly I walked into some thing painful that stopped me dead. I walked into a shin high barbed wire fence. Ouch! I later learned that there was cattle in the area and this was probably to stop them. Still it hurt. I stepped over the fence and followed the monkeys. I was able to get some decent photos and look at them with my binoculars. They had black faces surrounded by black fur but the rest of their body was lighter brown. All their fur was thick to protect against the cold winter nights. They still didn't appeared bothered by me crashing through the undergrowth beneath them. They occasionally looked at me but that was it. I didn't influence their behaviour one bit. I liked that. Obviously these monkeys haven't been hunted in a long time or ever for that matter.
It's so funny. This morning I walk for hours away from Caraca looking for monkeys and now I see them within view of the pousada. I walk back after my encounter and take a shower to help with the bug bites. It's sunny so I wash with clothes with the hope they will dry before the sun sets.
It's friday night now and there are more people here. I don't like the nightly feeding as much now that there is 20 people here. They treat the wolf with no respect. I'm glad I'm leaving tomorrow.
I woke up this morning feel like a bag of shit. Headache, bodyache, head congestion and possible slight fever. I wasn't even that hungry but ate some breakfast. I cooked my own eggs over the wood stove. Even though I felt like crap I wasn't going to let it ruin my whole day. I still got ready and hit the trail for 2 hours. I walked slow and didn't go far, I just felt too terrible. I got hungry later and ate lunch and then lied back down. I slept for a bit but woke up and didn't feel any better. I indeed had a fever of 100F. I needed something so I got up to go find someone. I asked a guy who I thought was a priest. He was the right guy to ask. He took me to the 'pharmacy' down the hall and gave me 4 pills, 2 now, 2 before bed. I took them and read and relaxed in my room. By dinner time at 6.30 I was feeling loads better. I hung out for the nightly feeding and then went to sleep. I wondered what was wrong with me. I never get this sick this early in a trip.
Dec. 10
I woke feeling 10 times better than yesterday. Whatever I had was basically gone. I was hungry and wanted to get back out on the trail. I hit the trail at 9.30. I was on a 6km long trail to a cascatona, a large waterfall. Paola and Deborah had gone this way yesterday. They said it took them 3 hours each way and they saw monkeys on the way. I wasn't quite up for an epic 6 hour hike, especially after having a fever yesterday but I wanted to look for monkeys. I limited myself to hiking 1.5 hours one way and then return to be back in time for lunch. It also looked like rain again, which it has been doing off and on. The trail was nice and it was through forest the whole time. I turned around after an hour and a half and made it back to Caraca at 12.30. I didn't see any monkeys but I did see some cool flowers.
At lunch, just like yesterday, there was a huge group of school kids here. Thankfully they only eat and then leave. They don't stay the night or hike the trails. In fact it seemed like only Deborah, Paolo and I were hiking the trails. I didn't see a single soul out in the bush. I loved this, it was like I had the whole park to myself. After lunch I took a short trail that climbed a hill for a view of the park. The top was rocky and steep and crawling with lizards. I set my pack down and tried for some photos. I sat still and was trying to photograph one lizard when to my disbelief, he started coming closer! Most lizards are skittish at best, staying still for a short time and then scattering quickly if you try to come close. Not this guy. I stayed still and he kept coming. He was literally right underneath me! This was so cool. I must stress, this never happens. Only one other time did I have a lizard approach me. I remember it clearly because of how rare an event it is. This first time was also in a transition forest in southern Madagascar. I was sitting on some rocks in my swimming suit drying off after a swim. A largish iguana, maybe 30cm long kept coming close to me. I shoed him away at first but then thought, let's see what happens if I don't move. He came right up to me, actually on top of my bare foot and was eating the flies I was attracting! I thought this was the coolest thing in the whole world. I could feel his little claws on me. I will never forget that moment. It's not often that any wild animal approaches a human. They must know the wrong human can be bad news for them.
I could hear monkeys calling loudly to each other in the forest not far from here. I climbed down and went in that direction. I took a wide flat trail that lead to a small lake. There was a small trail up the hillside through the forest in the direction of the monkeys so I took it. The trail petered out at the top of the hill but it was shady so I took off my pack and hat and had a rest. I thought I would wait here and listen for the monkeys to call again. I saw an interesting hairy red and yellow flower. I got into a cramped position to take a good photo of it. While I was doing this I was hearing a bit of movement in the trees but didn't look up because it was only subtle movement. When I did look up I saw there were 3 monkeys right over me! They were looking at me! I stayed still and tried to get photos. There were insects everywhere around me. Mosquitos, black flies, small flies, big flies and other things I didn't know what they were but I stayed still to get the shot. Finally it was too much and I had to move to put on my hat. This didn't bother the monkeys. Something even painfully bit me in the ass! I was itchy all over my upper body. The monkeys moved on so I followed them. They crossed the trail and so did I. The little trail I was on led into the forest just below them. I was following them cautiously when suddenly I walked into some thing painful that stopped me dead. I walked into a shin high barbed wire fence. Ouch! I later learned that there was cattle in the area and this was probably to stop them. Still it hurt. I stepped over the fence and followed the monkeys. I was able to get some decent photos and look at them with my binoculars. They had black faces surrounded by black fur but the rest of their body was lighter brown. All their fur was thick to protect against the cold winter nights. They still didn't appeared bothered by me crashing through the undergrowth beneath them. They occasionally looked at me but that was it. I didn't influence their behaviour one bit. I liked that. Obviously these monkeys haven't been hunted in a long time or ever for that matter.
It's so funny. This morning I walk for hours away from Caraca looking for monkeys and now I see them within view of the pousada. I walk back after my encounter and take a shower to help with the bug bites. It's sunny so I wash with clothes with the hope they will dry before the sun sets.
It's friday night now and there are more people here. I don't like the nightly feeding as much now that there is 20 people here. They treat the wolf with no respect. I'm glad I'm leaving tomorrow.
Caraca part II
I was excited to get out on the trails for my first full day at Caraca. My allergies suddenly acted up and I was sneezing and blowing my nose constantly all day, so annoying. I walked to a 5 tiered waterfalls and then hit another trail. I thought I was following a trail but then it petered out into the bush. The trail was more like an old road with a lot of grassy areas. The vegetation of the park is a transitional forest of cerrado ( grasslands and small trees) and Mata Atlantica ( atlantic coast rainforest). I was walking through a lot of grass and my mind turned to ticks, as it usually does in grassy areas. I inspected myself and yup, I had ticks on me! They had not bitten into me yet so they were easy to remove. When hiking alone I always make sure I know the way I came just in case I have to backtrack. I returned to the main trail and saw that I wasn't on the trail I thought. I took this new trail and was looking for a junction to turn right and make a loop back to Caraca. I was walking for a while and didn't see any loop. It was getting late and I wanted to be back for lunch between 12 and 1.30. I turned around and went back. As I walked through a forested section on the way back I heard movement in the trees. Monkeys! I always have time for monkeys. I stopped and watched them but they kept getting further away. I will come back to this area to look for them again, I thought to myself. I got back at 1.30 and was starving. I ate a huge lunch and rested for a bit.
I went back out to the trail I had started yesterday. I would take it 3km to the grutas des lourdes at the trails end. The trail went uphill through dense forest. The trail was really tight and I was constantly brushing vegetation. A few times I lost the way but backtracked and found the proper trail. The grutas des lourdes was nothing special, just a rocky overhang with a little statue of Mary. Halfway back to Caraca, it began to rain but I was prepared this time. I saw a large 60cm long lizard on the way back. Not sure exactly what type it was but I got a great photo of it. I didn't bring any identification books with me this time. I do feel a little lost without them but my reptile and my mammal ID guides would have added more than a kilo of weight and I decided I could go without them, since this trip is a month shorter than my usual 4 month trips, I could make do. I would identify them from my photos when I got home.
There is a lot of wildlife here, parrots, hummingbirds, many other birds and lizards. There aren't many mammals though. Dinner was another delicious affair. The large pots of food sit on top of a wood burning stove. I was not losing any weight here. That night at the feeding of the wolf I got talking to the couple from the night before. They were Paolo and Deborah and they have been coming here every 3 years for the last 26 years. They have seen Caraca in every season. The park is 1300m and gets very cold during June, July and August, the Brazilian winter. Paolo said it drops to 3C at night! Ouch! Now thats cold considering there's no heat sources in the rooms. I haven't seen anyone on the trails. I think Paolo and Deborah are the only other people here hiking the trails.
I went back out to the trail I had started yesterday. I would take it 3km to the grutas des lourdes at the trails end. The trail went uphill through dense forest. The trail was really tight and I was constantly brushing vegetation. A few times I lost the way but backtracked and found the proper trail. The grutas des lourdes was nothing special, just a rocky overhang with a little statue of Mary. Halfway back to Caraca, it began to rain but I was prepared this time. I saw a large 60cm long lizard on the way back. Not sure exactly what type it was but I got a great photo of it. I didn't bring any identification books with me this time. I do feel a little lost without them but my reptile and my mammal ID guides would have added more than a kilo of weight and I decided I could go without them, since this trip is a month shorter than my usual 4 month trips, I could make do. I would identify them from my photos when I got home.
There is a lot of wildlife here, parrots, hummingbirds, many other birds and lizards. There aren't many mammals though. Dinner was another delicious affair. The large pots of food sit on top of a wood burning stove. I was not losing any weight here. That night at the feeding of the wolf I got talking to the couple from the night before. They were Paolo and Deborah and they have been coming here every 3 years for the last 26 years. They have seen Caraca in every season. The park is 1300m and gets very cold during June, July and August, the Brazilian winter. Paolo said it drops to 3C at night! Ouch! Now thats cold considering there's no heat sources in the rooms. I haven't seen anyone on the trails. I think Paolo and Deborah are the only other people here hiking the trails.
Feeding of the wolves
Many years ago a priest at Cararca ( this is the only park in Brazil administered by clergy and masses are still held in the old church) tried to befriend the maned wolf which lives in the park. After a few years he gained the wolves trust and now the nightly feedings are open to the public. I went out after dinner and waited. I talked to a friendly, english speaking couple from Rio, they said the wolf had already come but he might be back. Just half an hour later, he appeared, cautious yet confident and hungry! The maned wolf is the largest canid in South America. Their coat is a light rusty brown, their legs black and a white tipped tail. I was surprised at how big they actually are. His head could easily reach my waist. It was a magical moment to be alone there with the wolf while he wolfed down the meat scrapes. Bats circled over my head coming so close I could hear the wind on their wings.I took many flash photos but this didn't bother the wolf. He must be used to the paparazzi! He ate almost the whole plate of raw chicken scraps and then wandered back into the forest. I was so happy to see this wolf here but I'm also going to try to see them again in a more natural setting in a few weeks.
Parque do Caraca
Most hotels in Brazil include breakfast and the cheap Hotel Madrid was no exception. After breakfast, I went to an ATM and took out money with no problems. I did my annual buzzing of my hair, bought a bus ticket and was on my way to Parque do Caraca at 10am. It was a 2.5 hour ride to Santa Barbara through rolling hills and not much development. From Santa Barbara I had to take a taxi to Caraca. It was 18km away and we only passed a few pousadas ( family run guesthouses) along the way. I liked what I was getting into, forest and no people. I stayed at Pousada Santerio, the only place to stay in the park. It is nestled in the middle of a range of bowl shaped mountains. There is a church here dating from 1774 from which the pousada was built around.
My private room cost $70 Brazilian real ( $1 can/us = appox. 1.70 reals) but that included 3 meals a day as well. I thought it was a pretty good deal once I saw my room and the food. I was starving and went to eat right away. All the meals are all you can eat buffets and the food was excellent. Brazilian food is pretty tame. There's nothing crazy exotic here. There was rice, beans, chicken, pork, beef, french fries, soup, salad, pasta, pasta salad and always fruit, usually banana, watermelon and papaya. They also had dessert! Sweet potatoe pudding and soft peanut brittle. They had coffee and juice too, though only provided coffee mugs in the morning. Other times you had to drink it from a small one once plastic cup. I know, weird eh?! According to Lonely Planet, Brazilians like their coffee as strong as the devil, hot as hell and sweet as love. Which is great, because that's exatly the way I like it.
My room was on a lower level floor which I had all to myself. Across the hall was the bathroom. Water was hot and pressure was outstanding! The whole place was spotlessly clean. I could get used to this! I planned on spending 4 nights here, from Tuesday to Saturday because Lonely Planet (LP) said it got busy on weekends. Thoughtfully placed motion censor lights lit up the hall or bathroom when ever I left my room. My room stayed a steady 23C with 75% humidity day and night. It had one large glass window with no screen so I always left it open.
It was already mid afternoon after I finished lunch so I just took a small trail up a hillside through the forest. The hillsides are littered with trails all marked on a free map. Many of the trails are self guiding, which I really like. It started to rain as I was on the trail and I had to run back not to get too soaked. I was prepared for any rain. After dinner I went out to a patio to see the nightly feeding of the wolf.
My private room cost $70 Brazilian real ( $1 can/us = appox. 1.70 reals) but that included 3 meals a day as well. I thought it was a pretty good deal once I saw my room and the food. I was starving and went to eat right away. All the meals are all you can eat buffets and the food was excellent. Brazilian food is pretty tame. There's nothing crazy exotic here. There was rice, beans, chicken, pork, beef, french fries, soup, salad, pasta, pasta salad and always fruit, usually banana, watermelon and papaya. They also had dessert! Sweet potatoe pudding and soft peanut brittle. They had coffee and juice too, though only provided coffee mugs in the morning. Other times you had to drink it from a small one once plastic cup. I know, weird eh?! According to Lonely Planet, Brazilians like their coffee as strong as the devil, hot as hell and sweet as love. Which is great, because that's exatly the way I like it.
My room was on a lower level floor which I had all to myself. Across the hall was the bathroom. Water was hot and pressure was outstanding! The whole place was spotlessly clean. I could get used to this! I planned on spending 4 nights here, from Tuesday to Saturday because Lonely Planet (LP) said it got busy on weekends. Thoughtfully placed motion censor lights lit up the hall or bathroom when ever I left my room. My room stayed a steady 23C with 75% humidity day and night. It had one large glass window with no screen so I always left it open.
It was already mid afternoon after I finished lunch so I just took a small trail up a hillside through the forest. The hillsides are littered with trails all marked on a free map. Many of the trails are self guiding, which I really like. It started to rain as I was on the trail and I had to run back not to get too soaked. I was prepared for any rain. After dinner I went out to a patio to see the nightly feeding of the wolf.
Belo Horizonte
I left El Misti Hostel at 10.30am for the bus station. I was 10 minutes to late to get the 11am bus to Belo Horizonte (BH), so I had to wait till the 2pm bus. I just hung around a food court waiting. We all got on the bus at 2 and then all got off 10 minutes later and switched to another bus, not sure why. The 6 hour trip to BH winded through forested mountains and then grassy mountains. We drove through some horrendous and torrential rain. I give the driver a lot of credit. Once I arrived in BH I got a basic room at Hotel Madrid, right across the street from the bus station. It was only $3 more than the hostel room I shared with 9 people. It had no bathroom but it was all mine. It did have a balcony where I could watch the bus station from. There are better places to stay in town but since I was only staying one night, I was happy to be right beside the bus station. I wasn't hungry as we stopped at a cafeteria along the way. I grabbed a beer from the hotel lobby and chilled on the balcony in the drizzling rain. BH is 850M above sea level and slightly cooler than Rio. I was surprised there was no fan in the room though. It was only 23C outside but it was 27C in my room.
Sugar Loaf Mountain
After breakfast Kyle, Brandon, Camilla and I get on a local bus for Pao de Acucar, known in english as Sugarloaf mountain. It's only a 20 minute ride. We start hiking up a wide paved trail up the mountain. It's the weekend and busy with people running and walking. Surprisingly for all this human traffic, I spot a pair or marmosets in the trees beside the path. Marmosets are small primates and I never thought I would see them here. They are very low in the tree and aren't bothered by anything. I get some great pics and then see why they hang around. They happily and easily accept a banana from a local. We have to leave the paved trail and hike up through forest to the top of the first peak of Sugarloaf. It's possible to take a cable car to here and then to the top but we all wanted to hike to the first peak. The view is great from here. It's a clear day and we can even see Corcavado, where we were yesterday. Why couldn't it have been this clear yesterday?
It's busy up here. There are lots of cafes and souvenir shops. We get the cable car to the peak of Sugarloaf mountain, around 400m high. The peak is occasionally surrounded with clouds but it clears for a while. We hang out on top of the mountain for a while and walk some short trails in the forest. After a while the clouds have come in and aren't showing any signs of leaving. I'm at least glad it was clear for a while.
Back in Copacabana I relax at the hostel for a while. I buy the largest mango I've ever seen at the supermarket across the street. It also has the largest passionfruits I've ever seen. The mango is tasty but it's not as good as the mangoes I had in Asia, escpecially Vietnam.
Brandon, Kyle, Camilla and I go out for dinner across the street from a beach. It rained heavily earlier but is only sprinkling now. It starts to pour on our way and we are wet by the time we reach the open air restaurant. The rain gets more intense. Lightning strikes right nears us and scares the shit out of everyone. A couple of firetrucks pull up and go into the building across the street. We try and wait for a break in the rain to go back to the hostel but it's not happening. We make a break for it, running in spurts from one overhang to the next. I'm really soaked now and chilled. I make it back to the hostel and change and set my clothes out to dry. This is my last night in Rio. I will be happy to leave the hostel and have my own room. I liked Rio more than I thought I would but I'm ready to move on.
It's busy up here. There are lots of cafes and souvenir shops. We get the cable car to the peak of Sugarloaf mountain, around 400m high. The peak is occasionally surrounded with clouds but it clears for a while. We hang out on top of the mountain for a while and walk some short trails in the forest. After a while the clouds have come in and aren't showing any signs of leaving. I'm at least glad it was clear for a while.
Back in Copacabana I relax at the hostel for a while. I buy the largest mango I've ever seen at the supermarket across the street. It also has the largest passionfruits I've ever seen. The mango is tasty but it's not as good as the mangoes I had in Asia, escpecially Vietnam.
Brandon, Kyle, Camilla and I go out for dinner across the street from a beach. It rained heavily earlier but is only sprinkling now. It starts to pour on our way and we are wet by the time we reach the open air restaurant. The rain gets more intense. Lightning strikes right nears us and scares the shit out of everyone. A couple of firetrucks pull up and go into the building across the street. We try and wait for a break in the rain to go back to the hostel but it's not happening. We make a break for it, running in spurts from one overhang to the next. I'm really soaked now and chilled. I make it back to the hostel and change and set my clothes out to dry. This is my last night in Rio. I will be happy to leave the hostel and have my own room. I liked Rio more than I thought I would but I'm ready to move on.
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Christ the Redeemer
Dec. 4
It was 9.30am and I wanted to keep sleeping but the complimentary breakfast goes from 8 to 10 and I wasn't about to miss a free breaky! The spread was extensive for a free breakfast. Buns, toast, sliced cold meat, eggs, fruit, cereal and coffee and juice. I filled my belly and then read for a while. Seems like most of the guests of the hostel don't speak english as their first language, so I was happy to finally hear some english voices. They belonged to Kyle and Brandon from the US and with them Camilla from Sweden. I was staying 3 days in Rio to visit the Christ Redeemer statue and Sugarloaf mountain. I would do them solo but was looking for company. An hour later the four of us were on our way.
We took a local bus to the base of Corcovado mountain. From there we took the cog train up to the top of the mountain. The 20 minute ride snaked through the forest of Tiajuca national park inside which the monument is located. We ascended into the clouds, litterally! We got to the top and couldn't see a thing! Not even the Christ statue when I was standing right beside it. I was hoping the clouds would pass or at least open up to give us a little sneak peek. Thankfully they did, though not for long. I managed to get a few pics but I was hoping for a lot more of the statue and the views. I stayed on top of the mountain for 3 hours, hoping for a break. But only a few very short openings came. My companions left after one hour. I kept myself busy taking pictures of some lizards, insects and butterflies. While I was photographing one butterfly near the ledge, a bushy tail passed by. A mammal! It was a coati, like a racoon. I was surprised and super happy, I didn't think I would see anything like this up here, with all these people around. It was very busy. It was saturday afterall but maybe it's busy everyday, I don't know.
I took the bus back to Copacabana and showered and washed my clothes again. Tomorrow the plan is to conquer Sugarloaf mountain with Brandon, Kyle and Camilla.
It was 9.30am and I wanted to keep sleeping but the complimentary breakfast goes from 8 to 10 and I wasn't about to miss a free breaky! The spread was extensive for a free breakfast. Buns, toast, sliced cold meat, eggs, fruit, cereal and coffee and juice. I filled my belly and then read for a while. Seems like most of the guests of the hostel don't speak english as their first language, so I was happy to finally hear some english voices. They belonged to Kyle and Brandon from the US and with them Camilla from Sweden. I was staying 3 days in Rio to visit the Christ Redeemer statue and Sugarloaf mountain. I would do them solo but was looking for company. An hour later the four of us were on our way.
We took a local bus to the base of Corcovado mountain. From there we took the cog train up to the top of the mountain. The 20 minute ride snaked through the forest of Tiajuca national park inside which the monument is located. We ascended into the clouds, litterally! We got to the top and couldn't see a thing! Not even the Christ statue when I was standing right beside it. I was hoping the clouds would pass or at least open up to give us a little sneak peek. Thankfully they did, though not for long. I managed to get a few pics but I was hoping for a lot more of the statue and the views. I stayed on top of the mountain for 3 hours, hoping for a break. But only a few very short openings came. My companions left after one hour. I kept myself busy taking pictures of some lizards, insects and butterflies. While I was photographing one butterfly near the ledge, a bushy tail passed by. A mammal! It was a coati, like a racoon. I was surprised and super happy, I didn't think I would see anything like this up here, with all these people around. It was very busy. It was saturday afterall but maybe it's busy everyday, I don't know.
I took the bus back to Copacabana and showered and washed my clothes again. Tomorrow the plan is to conquer Sugarloaf mountain with Brandon, Kyle and Camilla.
Rio De Janeiro
Nov. 3 2010
I have begun another adventure which starts in one of the most well known cities in the world, Rio De Janeiro. Contrary to popular belief, Rio is not the capital of Brazil. That distinction goes to the inland futuristic city of Brasilia. I took 2 flights to get here and everything went smooth. The last flight was a 10 hour overnighter from Atlanta to Rio. I tried and did sleep a little but when I couldn't sleep I watched a couple of movies. I had already been mistaken for Brazilian twice before even getting on the plane! This never happens. The only nationality I get mistaken for is American. Once I was in Brazil I saw why I was asked if I was Brazilian. The people of the country range from very white to very dark, fat, skinny, tall, short and everything in between. This just might be the first country where I don't stand out as a tourist, that is until I open my mouth! To me this is has its pros and cons. Sometimes I like standing out in a crowd and like the attention I get. Blending into the crowd is something I can do in Canada! But I'm not complaining, it is nice too not being noticed. I tried to learn a little Portuguese before I left but found it difficult. I still have memories of Spanish I used 10 years ago when I was last in South America and I'm hoping this will help. Speaking spanish has led people to ask me if I'm from Argentina or another spanish speaking country, but I guess I brought that on myself!
I booked 3 nights in El Misti hostel and this qualified me for a free pickup from the airport. The Rio airport is kind of small and there was no hassle or chaos at all when I left the airport. I had to wait 15 minutes for my ride and no one bothered me. Driving the streets into the city I took in the warm (30C) and humid air like a bird to flight. As I looked around and saw the familiar tropical landscape of fig trees, bouganvillea, mangos, papayas and palm trees, I felt very comfortable. I feel as at home surrounding by tropical flora as I do surrounded by pines, maples and spruce trees in Canada. The traffic was busy but the roads were in decent condition. Rio is mountainous and we drove through 4 tunnels on the way to the hostel. We stopped to get gas and I was surprised when the driver lifted his hood and they put some fancy looking gas pump inside. Now, I don't know a lot about cars, gasoline, etc, but I have never seen this done before.
At the hostel I took a bed in a 9 bed dorm room, 3 sets of 3 high bunkbeds in a tiny room. Normally I never go for dorms, as I don't like most things about them, but here it was the cheapest way to get a bed and I could book it online. December is high season in Brazil and I didn't want to be lugging my backpacks around looking for a place. The staff at the hostel are super friendly and speak english, spanish and portuguese. I was utterly wrecked from the flying and lack of sleep and slept from noon till almost 4. I got up and walked 400m to the famous Copacabana beach. I walked the streets for a bit and then chilled with a fruit smoothie. There are lots of juice/fruit bars. People seemed friendly and I didn't feel like my safety was threatened. Rio has a terrible reputation for violence, some of it justified, but most of this violence occurs in the slums/favelas on the hills surrounding the city.
I showered and washed the clothes I was wearing and then went out for dinner, looking for a reasonably priced meal. Brazil is not cheap as it is and Rio is probably one of its most expensive cities. I'm not going to go on and on about how expensive Brazil is compared to the other countries I traveled in but I will give some examples from time to time. For one, my dorm bed is more expensive than any hotel I had on my entire trip last year, and that was when my room had hot water, private bathroom and satellite TV!
I found a small hole in the wall type place and had chicken, rice and french fries, washed down with a Chopp draft beer. It was all good and the portions were huge. I have been following a semi vegetarian diet ( I eat chicken or fish, maybe once a month) for a year and a half, but as with my trip last year, I won't be as strict on that diet while I'm on the road. It's easy to eat veggie at home, but trying to keep it up while traveling is not a challenge I'm up for. I will say that is was easy to eat veggie in India though, but everywhere else it can be very tough.
There was a bit of a party back at the hostel but I wasn't feeling up for it. I just read for a while and then slept.
I have begun another adventure which starts in one of the most well known cities in the world, Rio De Janeiro. Contrary to popular belief, Rio is not the capital of Brazil. That distinction goes to the inland futuristic city of Brasilia. I took 2 flights to get here and everything went smooth. The last flight was a 10 hour overnighter from Atlanta to Rio. I tried and did sleep a little but when I couldn't sleep I watched a couple of movies. I had already been mistaken for Brazilian twice before even getting on the plane! This never happens. The only nationality I get mistaken for is American. Once I was in Brazil I saw why I was asked if I was Brazilian. The people of the country range from very white to very dark, fat, skinny, tall, short and everything in between. This just might be the first country where I don't stand out as a tourist, that is until I open my mouth! To me this is has its pros and cons. Sometimes I like standing out in a crowd and like the attention I get. Blending into the crowd is something I can do in Canada! But I'm not complaining, it is nice too not being noticed. I tried to learn a little Portuguese before I left but found it difficult. I still have memories of Spanish I used 10 years ago when I was last in South America and I'm hoping this will help. Speaking spanish has led people to ask me if I'm from Argentina or another spanish speaking country, but I guess I brought that on myself!
I booked 3 nights in El Misti hostel and this qualified me for a free pickup from the airport. The Rio airport is kind of small and there was no hassle or chaos at all when I left the airport. I had to wait 15 minutes for my ride and no one bothered me. Driving the streets into the city I took in the warm (30C) and humid air like a bird to flight. As I looked around and saw the familiar tropical landscape of fig trees, bouganvillea, mangos, papayas and palm trees, I felt very comfortable. I feel as at home surrounding by tropical flora as I do surrounded by pines, maples and spruce trees in Canada. The traffic was busy but the roads were in decent condition. Rio is mountainous and we drove through 4 tunnels on the way to the hostel. We stopped to get gas and I was surprised when the driver lifted his hood and they put some fancy looking gas pump inside. Now, I don't know a lot about cars, gasoline, etc, but I have never seen this done before.
At the hostel I took a bed in a 9 bed dorm room, 3 sets of 3 high bunkbeds in a tiny room. Normally I never go for dorms, as I don't like most things about them, but here it was the cheapest way to get a bed and I could book it online. December is high season in Brazil and I didn't want to be lugging my backpacks around looking for a place. The staff at the hostel are super friendly and speak english, spanish and portuguese. I was utterly wrecked from the flying and lack of sleep and slept from noon till almost 4. I got up and walked 400m to the famous Copacabana beach. I walked the streets for a bit and then chilled with a fruit smoothie. There are lots of juice/fruit bars. People seemed friendly and I didn't feel like my safety was threatened. Rio has a terrible reputation for violence, some of it justified, but most of this violence occurs in the slums/favelas on the hills surrounding the city.
I showered and washed the clothes I was wearing and then went out for dinner, looking for a reasonably priced meal. Brazil is not cheap as it is and Rio is probably one of its most expensive cities. I'm not going to go on and on about how expensive Brazil is compared to the other countries I traveled in but I will give some examples from time to time. For one, my dorm bed is more expensive than any hotel I had on my entire trip last year, and that was when my room had hot water, private bathroom and satellite TV!
I found a small hole in the wall type place and had chicken, rice and french fries, washed down with a Chopp draft beer. It was all good and the portions were huge. I have been following a semi vegetarian diet ( I eat chicken or fish, maybe once a month) for a year and a half, but as with my trip last year, I won't be as strict on that diet while I'm on the road. It's easy to eat veggie at home, but trying to keep it up while traveling is not a challenge I'm up for. I will say that is was easy to eat veggie in India though, but everywhere else it can be very tough.
There was a bit of a party back at the hostel but I wasn't feeling up for it. I just read for a while and then slept.
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