Almost 90% of the Vietnamese population wears a facemask, for various reasons. These include blocking their face from the sun, protection against air pollution and trying to keep their potential sick germs to themselves. I've seen this in some other countries but the Vietnamese certainly wear the most masks I've ever seen. They can be bought for about 25 cents and up. I bought one as a souvenir but thought I would wear it today on the moto ride to the tunnels. It actually felt good wearing it to protect from the wind in my face and the sun. I got some strange looks! I really felt Vietnamese now!
We arrive at the tunnels and there is hardly anyone around except for some vendors. My moto driver waits for me as I walk to the museum and tunnel entrance. The museum was small but has some good info and good pictures of the history of the tunnels. I entered the tunnels in one of the 12 entrances around the site. I'm no war or history buff by any means but I really wanted to see these tunnels. I guess I just like anything that resembles a cave, even if it's man made. I was not disappointed by the tunnels. There were some lights in the tunnels meant for visitors to follow them so they don't get lost. They gave me a flashlight when I bought my ticket. I stuck to the lit pathway but often took turns down unlit dark hallways just to see more of the tunnels. It was really spooky. I was in there all by myself. I couldn't hear anyone else. The tunnels were high enough so I could stand upright but most of the time I was slightly hunched over. The tunnels were in their original state and had not been enlarged like some of the tunnels around Ho Chi Minh city in the south.
There were 3 levels of tunnels, the deepest 23m underground! All along the hallways were little rooms carved into the side for families, child birthing, washing and meetings. They even showed movies in the tunnels and sang for entertainment. Some of these little rooms had bats in them, other had mannaquins showing what the room was used for. I must admit walking down the dimly lit halls and then coming unexpectedly across a plastic family startled me a few times!
Since this area was in the heart of the DMZ (demilitarized zone), the villages on the surface had the shit bombed out of it daily and that drove the villagers underground. People lived in these tunnels for 8 years! Everyday between 1965 -72 the sound of bombs and artillery was never silent. More than half a million tons of bombs were dropped on the 820 km sq. Vinh Linh area. There were 114 village tunnels with a total length of 40km. There were more than 60 babies born in the tunnels.
As I explored the halls I came across a bomb shelter sign pointing down a dark tunnel. I wanted to see the bomb shelter and carefully worked my way down the unlit slippery slope. I was doing fine until I got right near the bottom, I slipped and fell. I wasn't hurt but my arms were coated in a thick dark and heavy clay soil. As I got to the bottom I noticed the tunnel to the bomb shelter became very small and I would have had to crawl my way into it. I didn't want to do that so I climbed back up to the main hall. I found an exit that came out facing the ocean. There was no water around so I grabbed a few leaves to try and wipe off some of the dirt on my arms. I explored the tunnels for almost an hour. I really liked in there.
Just as I came out of the tunnels, a big group of tourists arrived. Perfect timing for me to leave! We took the same scenic route back to Dong Ha. I only came to Dong Ha to see the tunnels. There is nothing else of interest around. Though there are many war sites nearby, I was only interested in seeing the tunnels. The next day I took a bus to Dong Hoi, about one hour north of Dong Ha.
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