Friday, March 6, 2009

Mgahinga Gorilla N. P. - Mt. Sabinyo - 3669M

Mt. Sabinyo was my last volcano to climb in Uganda but it had a reputation for being the most difficult, according to some guides and the comments left in the visitors book. This was because it had 3 peaks and getting to the last peak required some careful maneauvering over treacherous wood ladders.
Tom, Rich and I all arranged breakfast for 7am. I was up on time and almost finished my breakfast by the time they arrived at 7.20. They had forgot to set their alarm. I was ready to go at 7.30 and went to visitors. I didn't want Tom and Rich to hold me up or vice versa. We had already discussed this and it was a problem it if I started and took my own guide. It costs the same and this was we could each go at our own pace. I began the climb at 8am with my guide Benjamin and our armed guard. The trail began like all the rest through regenerating farmland but didn't gain much altitude, even after one hour hiking. After the first hour the trail climbed steeply through forest to the first rest hut. The trail then climbed very steeply all the way to the first peak with little or no switchbacks. We were climbing a skinny forested ridge that dropped dramatically into the Sabinyo gorge to my right.
After 3 hours I reached the open grass of peak one. Tom and Rich caught up to me here. There were some views to be had here but our goal, peak 3, was deep in fog. We rested on peak one and then followed the trail down and then up again to peak 2. From peak 2 the trail became very skinny with fatal drops into the gorge of Sabinyo on one side and into the abyss of Rwanda on the other side. The fog cleared and Benjamin pointed out peak 3. It was almost straight up over our heads. Holy shit! We're going up there!?
The forest was again the high altitude afromontane type with many senecios and lobelias though these weren't the huge size they had attained on Mount Elgon. This is were the trail got hairy. Wood ladders climbed up the vertical cliffs towards the summit. At one point we were actually climbing on an angle of more than 90 degrees, going upside down backwards, kind of, if you can picture that. It wasn't for the faint hearted, that's for sure! Many ladders later we reached the peak of Sabinyo at 3669M and were standing in Uganda, Rwanda and DR Congo simaultaneously. That's what's so special about this mountain, being in all 3 countries, no visa required! The views eluded us though. The clouds hung around for the entire 3o minutes we stayed on the top. The wind started to pick up and it was a good time to leave. Going down the ladders was even more hairy than coming up them. I must admit and I'm not trying to brag but it takes a lot to scare me and I was a little scared going down the upside down ladder part. One wrong move and you're toast! I went down all the ladders backwards just because it was easier, faster and safer.
I went ahead of Tom and Rich and rested on peak one while they caught up. We all descended together. After the dodgy path to the peaks, going down through the forest on a nice path was a breeze. The trail was only muddy a bit near the peaks so my feet were dry and comfortable.I stopped to take pictures of a few flowers, some rare orchids I had never seen and Rich stopped to take a photo of a giant earthworm. I had seen one of these while climbing Gahinga. When I say giant, I mean giant! These worms were as thick as my thumb and easily over 30cm long. They were about the size of the biggest snake I had ever seen in Canada. We didn't stop anymore on the way down. Once we got back to the farmland, we looked back at the mountain. Its summit was totally free of clouds now. It was amazing and mindboggling to think we were just up there when it looked so high and forboding.
Tom, Rich and I ate a big dinner together and chilled around the fire. The night sky was crystal clear with stars as it had been for the last 2 nights. I was so glad and thankful that I have had clear and rainless weather for climbing. The weather had been so unsettled before I arrived. I guess I came at the right time.


I had done what I planned and in the time I planned. I climbed all 3 volcanoes and must say was very happy. I had not met anyone who had done this. I was 3 down and had 5 left to complete the total ascent of the Virunga volcanoes. I was only really tired and sore after the first, Gahinga. I guess my body just needed to be shocked back into shape because I wasn't sore or tired after Muhavura or Sabinyo.
There was one last thing I wanted to do in the park and that was to track the rare golden monkey. I wanted to go back to Kisoro tomorrow but could do the tracking in the morning and still make it to town.

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