Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Bwindi National Park - Ivi River Trail

We began to hike the Ivi river trail just after 7am. The trail followed the same way we went yesterday to the waterfall but instead of branching off we would be following it all the way to the river. The trail is 13km roundtrip. Not long after hiking on the trail our guide Ben ( whose real name I'm not using so he doesn't get in any trouble) brought up the proposition of tracking the gorillas. He asked Laszlo and I how much we would pay if he could show us the gorillas before the groups of tourists arrived to watch them. This isn't a thing to be encouraged but I thought a short sneek peak at the gorillas couldn't hurt. The habitated groups are used to seeing people everyday. The hefty fees for the tracking permit and entry permits for the park don't benefit the guides at all. Uganda has been steadily raising its prices for national parks but not raising the salaries of park employees. Illegally taking visitors to see gorillas is one way park guides can earn more money. We said we would pay $150 between the 2 of us for some time with the gorillas. Ben said he wasn't sure yet where the gorillas were and would let us know if there would be a possibility. The wide trail eventually got thinner and thinner. After 2 hours we reached a junction. One way lead to the Ivi river along the main trail and the branching trail lead to the other side of the park. Laszlo was carrying all his things with him and he was going this way and carrying on from the other side of the park. I would be going to the river and then back to Buhoma, but first we went to see the guides waiting for Laszlo at a small river to find out information. They said a gorilla group was near the compound on the other side of the park but were too afraid to take us there. There would be a small chance but I wasn't going to go that much out of my way for just a small chance. Laszlo wanted me to go with them because I was the one who had more money than him. There are 3 gorilla groups on the way back to Buhoma so I had a better chance by just sticking to the original route of going to the Ivi river and back. Laszlo walked back across the river to join the guides who would be taking him. He didn't say bye to me or anything. There was some tension between us and I was glad I would be leaving him. He just rubbed me the wrong way. My guide, armed escort and I carried on back to the main trail. It was still another hour to reach the Ivi river
The Ivi river marks the boundary of the park. It's nothing exceptional, just a small, clear, fast flowing river. We rested here for a bit before heading back. I was surprised that I had spent hours hiking in the park today and yesterday and not seen a single animal. As we got closer to Buhoma there was a troupe of red tailed monkeys in the trees. Finally, an animal, I thought. Further down the road there were many l'hoest monkeys on the road. Ben stayed back and let me approach the monkeys slowly. I was able to get quite close without disturbing them. Some l'hoest were crossing the trial, which was very wide at this point, right behind me. While watching the l'hoest, a troupe of black and white colobus passed through the trees overhead. Wow, I thought, no animals for hours and now 3 species of monkey in 10 minutes. I thought the possibility of seeing gorillas had passed. I said to Ben earlier I would still pay the same amount we had agreed upon with Laszlo's money but there was no pressure to find the gorillas. If we found them great, but if not, it was ok. Ben started checking trails with fresh gorilla signs and I got excited that there was still a chance to see them. It was now about 1pm and the groups had already been visited by tourists. The groups are only visited in the morning and once located, are limited strictly to one hour with the family. We went off trail but Ben said the gorillas had gone far away. There goes my cheap chance of seeing gorillas but that was ok, I was prepared to pay more to see them and this would have just been a bonus.
We arrived back in Buhoma about 6 hours after leaving. I had lunch and then took a seista for the afternoon. It had been a while since I've hiked for 6 hours. The day was again clear and sunny. I got up around dinner time and browsed the many souvenir stalls to find the one I would buy from. Most of them sell the same stuff, carved gorillas of all sizes. I found one that had decent carvings for a good price but wasn't going to buy anything until I actually saw gorillas.
I had put the word out at my lodge that I was looking for a permit. Loris, the guide staying next door to me said he had reliable information of a permit being available tomorrow at a discounted price. Permits sell for $500 US but he said he could get me a discount of $100. This sounded great to me but I wouldn't believe it until it happened. I had heard third hand reports of people getting discounted permits but had not actually met anyone who got one, so I was sceptical. Loris and I arranged to go to the park together tomorrow where he was almost positive I would get a permit. I was getting excited, I could be seeing the mountain gorillas tomorrow, and at a discounted price.

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