My next stop was the Tha Kek, capital of its province.The bus was going the next big town past Tha Kek. The road the whole way was smooth. We made a stop where I got some yogurt, peanuts and canned cold coffee for breakfast.The sky cleared up and the sun came out. The bus was just a local bus but it was comfortable enough and not full. After almost 5 hours I arrived in Tha Kek. I took a tuk tuk to my first guesthouse of choice but they had no cheap rooms with a private shower and I wasn't about the pay almost double the price just to get my own bathroom. I walked to Phoukanna guesthouse and found a room for a good price. It was large with 2 beds and private bath. It had a nice desk with mirror, large dresser and more outlets than I've ever had in one room. More outlets the better for me. I hate the super cheap rooms where they don't even have one outlet. I need to charge my ipod, camera batteries and headlamp batteries and have an outlet to plug in my external ipod speaker. I can do all that at the same time in this room!
I went to the tourist office which was just down the road from Phoukanna.It was very informative and the staff spoke good english. They had their 4 major treks published on the wall in color with a description. Even though their most popular trek was only 2 days, it did offer the most trekking and took in caves and lakes and was the one I wanted to do. First though I wanted to explore some of the area east of here on Route 12. I relaxed in my room till the evening and then walked for 15 minutes to get into the main area of town along the Mekong river. Thailand was on the other side of the wide and calm river.I ate bbq chicken, sticky rice and a beer for $2.50. I wrote online for a while and then crashed.
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Friday, January 8, 2010
Bye Vientiane
The next morning Thip and I went to eat breakfast together. She had to go back to Bangkok for work. My next stop was the small village of Ban Na on the edge of a National protected area. I took the city bus to the southern bus station. It was overcast and raining lightly at times. I rode in the back of a pick up for 80km out of the city to the turn off for Ban Na. From here I walked 2km to the village. I came here to hopefully do some trekking. I got the lowdown from the 'office'. No one really spoke english but they could give me the prices no problem.I had a price sheet from the tourist office but they said it was 2 years old. All of the prices had risen since then but from what I could tell, the standards had not. They still had no english speaking guides, and instead of a one off village fee, now it must be paid everyday. Even for one person 2 guides are mandatory. I had second thoughts about doing a trek. I could split the cost of the guides if another person arrived but wasn't sure if I was going to wait that long.
I decided just to stay in the village for the night and decide tomorrow. My only option was a homestay. I had a space on the floor of someone's living room which they did their best to make it somewhat private.Dinner was bony chicken soup and sticky rice. For the homestay and dinner and just to be in the village cost me almost as much as my overpriced hotel in Vientiane that had hot water, TV and a fridge. Something wasn't right here.It wasn't the families fault, they were very friendly and doing what they could. I just thought staying in a village and doing a simple trek would be much cheaper. The whole family went to bed at 9.
I was awoken at 7am the next morning by the TV which was right behind my 'bed'. I got up and decide to skip on this park.I walked back to the main road. I only waited 5 minutes before a bus stopped.
I decided just to stay in the village for the night and decide tomorrow. My only option was a homestay. I had a space on the floor of someone's living room which they did their best to make it somewhat private.Dinner was bony chicken soup and sticky rice. For the homestay and dinner and just to be in the village cost me almost as much as my overpriced hotel in Vientiane that had hot water, TV and a fridge. Something wasn't right here.It wasn't the families fault, they were very friendly and doing what they could. I just thought staying in a village and doing a simple trek would be much cheaper. The whole family went to bed at 9.
I was awoken at 7am the next morning by the TV which was right behind my 'bed'. I got up and decide to skip on this park.I walked back to the main road. I only waited 5 minutes before a bus stopped.
An extra day
I got up at 8 and went to the Vietnamese embassy to get my visa. I hoped there wouldn't be any problems and there wasn't. I'm not sure if dressing smartly had anything to do with getting my visa though. When I got to the office there were 5 young backpackers there with shorts, flipflops,unshaven, messy hair with their backpacks strewn all over the floor of the small office. I guess they didn't care or read about appearances being important. I have seen much disrespect for Lao values on my trip. The guidebook clearly states, as does some signs I saw around the tubing office in Vangvieng, that it's not cool to walk around town shirtless or in a bikini. Locals don't do this and expect the same in return. Many people choose to ignore this and walked around wearing whatever they pleased. I can understand this a little better in a party town like Vangvieng that gets a lot of tourists but was more surprised when I saw it in Vientiane. My second day there I was walking around and saw some tourist walking around shirtless. Sure, the weather is warm but it's not stifling and a shirt isn't that much of a hindrance. It made me mad to see this and I was this close to saying ' Have some f#%@ing respect and put on a shirt!' This is the capital city and not some beach town! I regretfully kept my mouth shut. Locals disapprove quietly and would never say anything to a tourist.
I got my visa with no problems. Visa in hand I was done my errands in Vientiane. I walked to Thip's hotel. We hung out for the rest of the day.
I got my visa with no problems. Visa in hand I was done my errands in Vientiane. I walked to Thip's hotel. We hung out for the rest of the day.
Visas and visitors
Vietiane was on my route south through Laos and I would have just passed right through but there was some things I had to do here. First was extend my Laos visa. They gave me 30 days at the border but I needed 45. This is supposed to be simple enough and my guidebook says it only takes an hour. My plan was to get the extension and then take my passport to the Vietnamese embassy and get my Vietnam visa process started. I hoped it would only take 2 days.
I got up early, well, 7.30 anyway,and started walking to the Immigration office. I had a mental map of the city in my head, the office was just off the main street but somehow I missed it. I asked some traffic police but they couldn't help me at all. I kept walking but then noticed I had gone too far for sure. I turned back and asked a woman getting her photo taken by the traffic police. Her name was Thip and she was visiting from Thailand. She was leaving for Viangvieng today but we made plans to meet when she came back tomorrow.
I went to the Immigration office, filled out the forms, supplied a photo and paid. I gave the officer all my stuff and he told me to return tomorrow. The government changed the rules, you now had to wait one day for an extension. Turns out I will be a bit longer in the city than I planned. Vientiane is one of the most relaxed capitals I've ever been in and I like it. The only other capital I liked this much was Kigali, capital of Rwanda, though Vientiane is much more touristy with internet, hotels, shops and restaurants everywhere. The downtown is very easy to negotiate on foot.
The next day I went to the Immigration office at 9am, just when they told me I could pick up my extension. My passport was ready, I got my 15 days just like I asked for and was out of there in minutes. I walked to the Vietnamese embassy, about 10 minutes away. I had heard stories of people being denied visas for Vietnam and that appearance was very important. I shaved in my short, jawline beard and put on long pants and a button down shirt. This was as 'smart' as I could look. There was only 3 other people in the office. I filled out my application, supplied a photo and handed in the forms. The form was surprisingly easy to fill out with not much information being asked for. They told me I could pick up my visa the next day or wait more days with the price dropping a few dollars each day. I paid to have my visa ready the next day. I walked back to my hotel to change into shorts and a t shirt. I ate breakfast and relaxed for a while.
I met Thip in the afternoon and we hung out for the rest of the day.
I got up early, well, 7.30 anyway,and started walking to the Immigration office. I had a mental map of the city in my head, the office was just off the main street but somehow I missed it. I asked some traffic police but they couldn't help me at all. I kept walking but then noticed I had gone too far for sure. I turned back and asked a woman getting her photo taken by the traffic police. Her name was Thip and she was visiting from Thailand. She was leaving for Viangvieng today but we made plans to meet when she came back tomorrow.
I went to the Immigration office, filled out the forms, supplied a photo and paid. I gave the officer all my stuff and he told me to return tomorrow. The government changed the rules, you now had to wait one day for an extension. Turns out I will be a bit longer in the city than I planned. Vientiane is one of the most relaxed capitals I've ever been in and I like it. The only other capital I liked this much was Kigali, capital of Rwanda, though Vientiane is much more touristy with internet, hotels, shops and restaurants everywhere. The downtown is very easy to negotiate on foot.
The next day I went to the Immigration office at 9am, just when they told me I could pick up my extension. My passport was ready, I got my 15 days just like I asked for and was out of there in minutes. I walked to the Vietnamese embassy, about 10 minutes away. I had heard stories of people being denied visas for Vietnam and that appearance was very important. I shaved in my short, jawline beard and put on long pants and a button down shirt. This was as 'smart' as I could look. There was only 3 other people in the office. I filled out my application, supplied a photo and handed in the forms. The form was surprisingly easy to fill out with not much information being asked for. They told me I could pick up my visa the next day or wait more days with the price dropping a few dollars each day. I paid to have my visa ready the next day. I walked back to my hotel to change into shorts and a t shirt. I ate breakfast and relaxed for a while.
I met Thip in the afternoon and we hung out for the rest of the day.
Vientiane
I left Vangvieng at around noon on sunday,Jan.3. I walked to the bus station but the next local bus was full. The next one wasn't leaving for another 2 hours so I took a seat in the back of a pick up for the same price. The road to Vientiane was in good shape and not nearly as winding as the previous journeys I had taken. I arrived in the capital city of Laos around 4 and took a tuk tuk into the center. While we drove along the cities wide and clean lanes, I was surprised that this was actually a capital city. This would be a small city in many other countries. It was very relaxed and no sky scrapers. It was a good first impression.
Even though the city seemed okay, finding decent and cheap accommodation was another nightmare. All the places I checked from the guidebook were full, so I just starting checking every place I saw. I found a cheaper room, though it was cramped and not that nice. I ended up at Semsanthai Hotel in a more expensive room that had a private hot shower, TV and fridge. The hotel also supplied 2 bottles of water daily. Both this room and the previous room I checked, were only really worth half of what they were charging. I guess I got spoiled staying in guesthouses in Luang Nam Tha, my first destination in Laos. I use these places for comparison to all the other places I've stayed and so far, nothing has come close to the value I got there. For me peace of mind was more important than saving a few bucks, escpecially here in the capital where there wasn't much I wanted to see. I knew I would be spending more time in my room. Even with my expensive room and some creative food choices, I could still stay within my budget.
Even though the city seemed okay, finding decent and cheap accommodation was another nightmare. All the places I checked from the guidebook were full, so I just starting checking every place I saw. I found a cheaper room, though it was cramped and not that nice. I ended up at Semsanthai Hotel in a more expensive room that had a private hot shower, TV and fridge. The hotel also supplied 2 bottles of water daily. Both this room and the previous room I checked, were only really worth half of what they were charging. I guess I got spoiled staying in guesthouses in Luang Nam Tha, my first destination in Laos. I use these places for comparison to all the other places I've stayed and so far, nothing has come close to the value I got there. For me peace of mind was more important than saving a few bucks, escpecially here in the capital where there wasn't much I wanted to see. I knew I would be spending more time in my room. Even with my expensive room and some creative food choices, I could still stay within my budget.
Monday, January 4, 2010
More caving adventures!
There were still many caves I wanted to explore, so after breakfast I rented the same bike and crossed the bridge. The first caves were close to each other but I didn't think they were anything special. Maybe I would have seen more with a guide but the guide fee was twice what it was to enter the cave. I rode to the Diamond cave after this. These caves were not as popular as blue lagoon of Tham sang or Tham jang and sometimes I was the only person there. Diamond cave started out with a ladder climbing up into it. The chamber was just tall enough that I could walk standing up straight. It went up and down on some ladders and became larger. This cave was really fun and there was only one obvious way to go. The owner, whose cave was on his property, said there was swimming inside the cave but I took the cave to the definite end and saw no swimming place. The entrance to the cave had a crystal clear lagoon similar to Tham Jang. I hid my pack in the forest and entered the water. I followed it into a narrow chamber running against the current that appeared to go into the cave. Maybe this is what he meant by swimming in the cave. This passage didn't go very far but was quite narrow the whole way. I swam it to the end where the water continued under the rocks. I could feel the current coming out strongly from underneath. The ceiling was low with some rocks almost touching the water. Once I got to the end I turned around and saw a freaking huge spider (20cm/7" from leg tip to leg tip) looking at me at almost eye level. I was a bit surprised to see this but the spider never moved. I wished I had my camera. Swimming out of this narrow passage was difficult and my finger accidentally brushed the side and was cut open by the limestone. It wasn't to deep a cut but after this I doggy paddled my way out. I hung around the entrance to the cave drying off and no one else arrived.
I got on my bike and road to Luci cave, 3km away. The trail was long to the cave and under the canopy of a mostly teak forest. I passed a group of 4 travellers along the way. Luci cave had a lagoon deep inside it that I wanted to visit. A guide was mandatory but they told me I needed to be at least 2 people. The constant plague of solo travel, being only one person it's tough to do things. I knew the others were coming so I waited for them. The guide told me it was an hour and a half to the lagoon and back. It was 2.30 and I was going to go for lunch after this but could wait that long. I asked if they had any food. The guy gave me his leftover lunch of a piece of pork and sticky rice for free. That was nice of him and this would last me till later. The others showed up, 2 girls from Israel and 2 guys from Australia. This cave was fairly interesting and the ground difficult to negotiate at times. There was a few ladders to climb and some really low spots to pass through. It was fun. After 30 minutes we reached the lagoon. The chamber containing the lagoon was huge and the water so still and dark it was hard to even see that there was water in it. I came all this way and wanted to go in the lagoon. I was the first in and the 2 guys and the guide joined me after 10 minutes. The girls stayed behind. We walked to the other side of the lagoon. The water was muddy and hard to see into but was only crotch high. We reached dry land on the other side and then kept walking. We came to another lagoon were there were actually a few tubes. I hopped in one a paddled to the end of this lagoon. The cave kept going but we turned around went back. I saw the exact type of huge spider I had seen in the water cave earlier in the day and was able to get a photo this time. When we came out of the cave it was after 4. I decided to call it a day and rode back to town and returned my bike. I ate a delicious curry dinner at Kangaroo and spent the evening drinking and talking with an Irish couple and an Aussie.
I got on my bike and road to Luci cave, 3km away. The trail was long to the cave and under the canopy of a mostly teak forest. I passed a group of 4 travellers along the way. Luci cave had a lagoon deep inside it that I wanted to visit. A guide was mandatory but they told me I needed to be at least 2 people. The constant plague of solo travel, being only one person it's tough to do things. I knew the others were coming so I waited for them. The guide told me it was an hour and a half to the lagoon and back. It was 2.30 and I was going to go for lunch after this but could wait that long. I asked if they had any food. The guy gave me his leftover lunch of a piece of pork and sticky rice for free. That was nice of him and this would last me till later. The others showed up, 2 girls from Israel and 2 guys from Australia. This cave was fairly interesting and the ground difficult to negotiate at times. There was a few ladders to climb and some really low spots to pass through. It was fun. After 30 minutes we reached the lagoon. The chamber containing the lagoon was huge and the water so still and dark it was hard to even see that there was water in it. I came all this way and wanted to go in the lagoon. I was the first in and the 2 guys and the guide joined me after 10 minutes. The girls stayed behind. We walked to the other side of the lagoon. The water was muddy and hard to see into but was only crotch high. We reached dry land on the other side and then kept walking. We came to another lagoon were there were actually a few tubes. I hopped in one a paddled to the end of this lagoon. The cave kept going but we turned around went back. I saw the exact type of huge spider I had seen in the water cave earlier in the day and was able to get a photo this time. When we came out of the cave it was after 4. I decided to call it a day and rode back to town and returned my bike. I ate a delicious curry dinner at Kangaroo and spent the evening drinking and talking with an Irish couple and an Aussie.
Caving across the bridge
January 1, 2010
We've entered 2010. Too bad it's nothing like the reality in the movie of the same year, still I think it has a good ring to it. I decided to spend the first day of the new year doing a 32km loop on a mountain bike on the other side of the river. The other side of the river from Vangvieng is much more quieter with dirt roads and lots of caves and classic karst scenery. My plan was to follow a loop that got right in to the heart of the karst mountains. I had a big breakfast, rented a somewhat decent mountain bike and was off. My first stop was the Blue Lagoon cave, 7km away. The road was unpaved and bumpy and rocky but traffic was very light. According to my guidebook the cave here is famous for its blue lagoon inside the cave. I wonder if the guidebook even went there because they got this one really wrong. The lagoon is on ground level in front of the cave. No where near being inside the cave. It was a busy place but at the time, 11.30, it was mostly Asian tourists. I think most of the foreigners were still sporting a hangover and were quiet out yet.
I climbed up a steep path to get a great view of Vangvieng from the mouth of the cave. The cave is very large with a lot of sun shining in. I followed the arrows to get inside the actual dark cave. Everyone was just staying in the naturally lit part. Once I got into the extreme blackness of the cave, I was alone. I know it can be dangerous to be in spelunking alone but I did the most I could to minimize the dangers. I walked very slowly, always looking where my head and feet were going. I took time to appreciate the formations and took constant note of where I was, where I came from and what direction I was going. I noted the main wall of the cave was to my right side. If I found I was taking to many turns, I wouldn't go on but this cave was large and fairly straightforward. There was only one way to go. I kept following it until I came to the apparent end. On one side was a big hole I wasn't going to try to negotiate and the other way I could find any continuing passage, so I turned back.
Once outside the cave I joined an Aussie/Canadian couple sitting by the blue lagoon. They watched my stuff while I took a swim in the turquoise water. It was now after 1pm and many foreigners had arrived. It was getting busy and I was ready to move on. I saw many signs along the way advertising caves that weren't in the guidebook. I wanted to explore these caves so I changed my plan. Instead of trying to conquer the 32km loop on the shitty roads, I would explore more caves nearby and make it a day of caving instead of riding.
The next place I stopped had a cave and a viewpoint. I parked my bike and began climbing. I thought I was climbing to the entrance of the cave but it never came. I just kept going up and up. I was in the shade but it was humid and I was thoroughly drenched in sweat but kept on. I finally reached a half ass landscaped viewpoint. I took off my shirt and rested here. I left my shirt behind and kept going on the path with my backpack. A few locals had also reached this point and were coming up behind me. The path lead to the very top of the mountain. A little covered bamboo hut erected over the razor sharp karst was a perfect spot for a rest. It was an amazing view of the rice fields and surrounding mountains, definitely worth the climb. I stayed up here for a while and more locals arrived. It was me and 10 locals on this little platform. I was getting really hungry and made the trek back down. I had a simple lunch at 4 and a tiny place with 2 tables. My bike didn't have to be returned till 6pm so I thought I would explore a 4 cave combo called Bees cliff I had passed on my way.
The trail to Bees cliff was mostly downhill. It was really fun but I thought it was going to be tough riding it back. I got the 'gate' and paid my entrance fee. The first few caves were small and nothing special. The last cave there was a place for 'swimming' in the cave. I really needed a swim. The way into the cave was high but very, very narrow. I had to take off my pack just to squeeze through. After a few minutes I reached the 'swimming area'. The pool was tiny, about the size of a child's swimming pool you would fill with a hose on a hot summer day, but I didn't care. I put my pack down, climbed down the steep ladder and went in. I could see the water continued underneath the rocks but I wasn't about to try and do that. I'm not that crazy! I climbed out of the cave and got my stuff together at the entrance where a few locals kids were hanging out waiting to guide tourists. They asked me if I wanted to see a snake. Of course I do! It was very close on the top of a small bush. It was a smaller snake and its green color blended in perfectly with the plants. I wouldn't have noticed it on my own but as soon as I was shown were it was I was able to recognize it. I got 2 very clear pictures. I matched them to the snakes in my Guide to Reptiles of SE Asia and was able to identify the snake as a big eyed viper. There was no doubt that is was this venomous and dangerous snake. The color of it, the distinct shape of its head and the enormous orange eyes gave it away. This was really cool. Most snakes I see are difficult to identify.
I stopped at the local swimming hole on the way out and jumped off a high spot with some local kids. I got a bit lost on my way back since I took a different, flatter route. I got my bike back exactly at 6pm. Paul had closed Kangaroo Sunset for the night, so I walked into town for dinner. I ended up at a small place with 6 tables showing Family Guy. I got a beer and some local food and watched a few episodes before crashing later.
The trail to
We've entered 2010. Too bad it's nothing like the reality in the movie of the same year, still I think it has a good ring to it. I decided to spend the first day of the new year doing a 32km loop on a mountain bike on the other side of the river. The other side of the river from Vangvieng is much more quieter with dirt roads and lots of caves and classic karst scenery. My plan was to follow a loop that got right in to the heart of the karst mountains. I had a big breakfast, rented a somewhat decent mountain bike and was off. My first stop was the Blue Lagoon cave, 7km away. The road was unpaved and bumpy and rocky but traffic was very light. According to my guidebook the cave here is famous for its blue lagoon inside the cave. I wonder if the guidebook even went there because they got this one really wrong. The lagoon is on ground level in front of the cave. No where near being inside the cave. It was a busy place but at the time, 11.30, it was mostly Asian tourists. I think most of the foreigners were still sporting a hangover and were quiet out yet.
I climbed up a steep path to get a great view of Vangvieng from the mouth of the cave. The cave is very large with a lot of sun shining in. I followed the arrows to get inside the actual dark cave. Everyone was just staying in the naturally lit part. Once I got into the extreme blackness of the cave, I was alone. I know it can be dangerous to be in spelunking alone but I did the most I could to minimize the dangers. I walked very slowly, always looking where my head and feet were going. I took time to appreciate the formations and took constant note of where I was, where I came from and what direction I was going. I noted the main wall of the cave was to my right side. If I found I was taking to many turns, I wouldn't go on but this cave was large and fairly straightforward. There was only one way to go. I kept following it until I came to the apparent end. On one side was a big hole I wasn't going to try to negotiate and the other way I could find any continuing passage, so I turned back.
Once outside the cave I joined an Aussie/Canadian couple sitting by the blue lagoon. They watched my stuff while I took a swim in the turquoise water. It was now after 1pm and many foreigners had arrived. It was getting busy and I was ready to move on. I saw many signs along the way advertising caves that weren't in the guidebook. I wanted to explore these caves so I changed my plan. Instead of trying to conquer the 32km loop on the shitty roads, I would explore more caves nearby and make it a day of caving instead of riding.
The next place I stopped had a cave and a viewpoint. I parked my bike and began climbing. I thought I was climbing to the entrance of the cave but it never came. I just kept going up and up. I was in the shade but it was humid and I was thoroughly drenched in sweat but kept on. I finally reached a half ass landscaped viewpoint. I took off my shirt and rested here. I left my shirt behind and kept going on the path with my backpack. A few locals had also reached this point and were coming up behind me. The path lead to the very top of the mountain. A little covered bamboo hut erected over the razor sharp karst was a perfect spot for a rest. It was an amazing view of the rice fields and surrounding mountains, definitely worth the climb. I stayed up here for a while and more locals arrived. It was me and 10 locals on this little platform. I was getting really hungry and made the trek back down. I had a simple lunch at 4 and a tiny place with 2 tables. My bike didn't have to be returned till 6pm so I thought I would explore a 4 cave combo called Bees cliff I had passed on my way.
The trail to Bees cliff was mostly downhill. It was really fun but I thought it was going to be tough riding it back. I got the 'gate' and paid my entrance fee. The first few caves were small and nothing special. The last cave there was a place for 'swimming' in the cave. I really needed a swim. The way into the cave was high but very, very narrow. I had to take off my pack just to squeeze through. After a few minutes I reached the 'swimming area'. The pool was tiny, about the size of a child's swimming pool you would fill with a hose on a hot summer day, but I didn't care. I put my pack down, climbed down the steep ladder and went in. I could see the water continued underneath the rocks but I wasn't about to try and do that. I'm not that crazy! I climbed out of the cave and got my stuff together at the entrance where a few locals kids were hanging out waiting to guide tourists. They asked me if I wanted to see a snake. Of course I do! It was very close on the top of a small bush. It was a smaller snake and its green color blended in perfectly with the plants. I wouldn't have noticed it on my own but as soon as I was shown were it was I was able to recognize it. I got 2 very clear pictures. I matched them to the snakes in my Guide to Reptiles of SE Asia and was able to identify the snake as a big eyed viper. There was no doubt that is was this venomous and dangerous snake. The color of it, the distinct shape of its head and the enormous orange eyes gave it away. This was really cool. Most snakes I see are difficult to identify.
I stopped at the local swimming hole on the way out and jumped off a high spot with some local kids. I got a bit lost on my way back since I took a different, flatter route. I got my bike back exactly at 6pm. Paul had closed Kangaroo Sunset for the night, so I walked into town for dinner. I ended up at a small place with 6 tables showing Family Guy. I got a beer and some local food and watched a few episodes before crashing later.
The trail to
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