Our trek into Nam Tha National Protected Area began at 9am. I got up at 8 and had breakfast with Marco (Spain) and Jenny (US) at Zuela Guesthouse/restuarant. We met again at the Green Discoveries office. We found that Jerome (France) had joined our group last night, so we got some of our $ refunded. I got along great with everybody and was looking forward to the trek. It was a gloomy and cloudy day but at least it wasn't raining. We first had to take a tuk tuk about 30 minutes out of town to a small village that was our starting point. At the village we picked up two villagers that would help carry and prepare our food for the first day.
We branched off the main road and followed a skinny but well maintained tral along the river. Then the trail climbed and climbed and climbed! It seemed like the first day was mostly uphill but it wasn't that difficult. I actually prefer going mostly uphill as to downhill. Sure, downhill is easier and you're not sweating but it's much harder on my knees and my legs sometimes get shaky after extended descents, so I didn't mind the uphill. We stopped for lunch beside a river. Lunch consisted of a big ball of sticky rice and a cauliflower/mushroom mix and another meat mixutre with sides of a really spicy dish. It was all a free for all, I would pick up the rice with my hand and then the other food with my chopsticks and try to combine them at the same time in my mouth. It was all very good and filling.
Our first day was easy as we only trekked 6km and got to our camp for the night at 2.45. The jungle camp consisted of a communal sleeping hut raised off the ground and a small cooking hut all set on a high ridge surrounded by forest. It was a really nice spot and a stream was only a 5 minute walk downhill. I got settled in and then we all went down to the stream. I walked upstream for some privacy and bathed quickly. The water was only about 15C. I brought a book with me so I read for a while after that. Dinner was again sticky rice, veggies and meat but a different variation and really good too. There was always enough food to fill up. We had cardomum tea that was picked fresh along the way. After dinner, our guide, 24 year old Pet, produced a bottle of Laolao, the national drink of Laos after Beerlao. It's strong stuff usually made from rice or maize. We each did a shot but that was about all I wanted.
That evening the two villagers took Jerome and Marco to catch frogs to eat for breakfast, along the stream. I wasn't into this but they let me walk alone in the forest for a nightwalk. The forest here is home to many animals, tiger, gibbons, deer, pangolin, slow loris, monkeys, wild pig,etc. Though we didn't see or hear anything on our trek, I hoped I might have some luck with some nocturnal creatures. The pangolin and slow loris are two nocturnal animals that are at the top of my nocturnal mammal wishlist. I looked hard and slow but only saw a giant grasshopper, almost 15cm long. I think I scared a few sleeping birds too as I heard some commotion but never saw any eyeshine.
I hung out at the dinner table for a while watching the stars. I saw an amazing shooting star, one of the best I've ever seen. It lasted almost 2-3 seconds. I saw it penetrate our atmosphere and then disintegrate into a fantastic burst of red, yellow and orange and finally disappear. It was really something special. I saw another later but this was like most shooting stars that only last a fraction of a second and then are gone. Everyone was in bed by 9am! We slept on a hard, thin mattress with a mosquito net and two blankets. The entire forest was a in a thick mist and the temperature was about 14C but the humidity was 90%!
Day 2
When I woke up early in the morning I could hear the guides and porters talking and thought they would be waking us up anytime but I would sleep until they did. I woke up again later on my own and checked the time. It was 8.15. I was surprised and thankful that they let us sleep in. Most treks, you're up at six or seven and then on your way an hour later. This was different and I liked it. I got up naturally, had a three in one coffee and waited for breakfast. The forest was still very misty. Breakfast was a big clump of sticky rice, an omelette and pumpkin soup, all very good and filling. I was ready to trek. We packed up and left at 10.
Today was our longest day but it the 11km we had to trek was supposed to be mostly on flat ground. The trekking was easy but the mist obscured some of the viewpoints along the way but it never rained. We all got to walk at our own pace and we rested about once an hour. There were many snacks of oranges, sour apples, apples and cookies and oreos provided by our guide and porters but also from within our group. I was never hungry or thirsty. They provided bottled water and boiled water but I brought my water purifier. I don't like the burnt taste of boiled water and this way I could have fresh water whenever I wanted when we crossed a river. I was only carrying my small day pack with a change of clothes, camera, binoculars, book, portable weather station, towel and some personal stuff. It was really easy to trek with just this.
We stopped for lunch on the trail and Pet cut a bunch of banana leaves as a makeshift placemat and table. Lunch was again another variation of meat and veggies with sticky rice. We had also been eating a lot of Rattan, collected along the way. Rattan is a thorny vine/shrub type palm that is prized for furniture and basket making. I've seen it before a lot in Borneo but never knew that the inside of the fresh stems could be eaten. The taste and texture was like bamboo, I liked it. Sometimes they even roasted it. Our second night was spent at another jungle bungalow, except this one was more in the open. It was in the site of an relocated village. The government sternly enforced the village to move out of the middle of the NPA to near the road about 3 years ago. The only signs left of the village were some massive and very dead 4x4's that we burned.
Pet told us there was a large waterfall nearby that we could bath under. We all got ready and were really looking forward to a good washing. We looked up a pitiful and vegetation choked stream for the waterfall but couldn't find it. Turns out Pet was just bullshitting us! I didn't find this funny though. The 'waterfall' was only about 30cm high. I still got naked though when everyone left and used a scoop to take a 'bucket' type shower. I read again after my shower. I was so full from lunch that I wasn't that hungry when dinner was ready around 5.30. It was another delicious feast. The Laolao came out again after dinner but I only had one shot.We sat around a fire for a while before crashing at around 9. The sky was clear above us but the half full moon was too bright for any amazing stars.
Day 3
Our last day was supposed to be the hardest, a lot of up and down but that still didn't mean we had to get up early. I woke up around 7.30 and had a coffee. Breakfast was an egg/rice mixture with veggies and pumpkin soup. We were all full and ready for our trek. It was a lot of long ascents and descents but not too hard and we took regular rests. A local from a nearby village helped fetch water and prepare the food. He and his four year old son also helped set up and take down our beds and nets. The trekking got easier after a few hours. Most of the way, the four year old boy was leading the entire group, and barefoot at that! I must admit he kept up a good pace and knew the way and never complained. This was one tough kid.
Around 2pm we reached our finishing point in a small village. We had lunch here near the river. It was another giant feast with fresh forest made chopsticks from bamboo. The villages were used to tourists and ready for us. Little kids tried to sell us homemade bracelots and jewellery. We took a waiting tuk tuk back to Luang Nam Tha and our trek ended around 3pm. We all went our own ways but agreed to meet for dinner at 7.
Though I enjoyed the trek and being out in the forest, I was a little disappointed with the wildlife. I thought I would maybe have a hint of seeing or hearing an animal but nothing. We only saw some fresh tracks of a wild pig our last morning. After doing the trek I realized that we weren't deep enough in the forest to see anything. All along the way we saw tiny encampments,some old, some new, used by the villagers while they are in the forest collected bamboo, rattan or other forest products. It's illegal to hunt in the protected area but I'm sure it probably still happens and I think all the wildlife has learned to avoid any areas near humans. I hope to see more in Laos's other protected areas.
We all met up for dinner and went to Yamuna Indian restuarant at my suggestion. Jenny gathered up the few people there that were eating alone and our group was eight people. It was a fun Christmas Eve night of drinking and merryment. Marco is a showman and a bit of a magician. He does some cool tricks that the village kids love. I must admit, I didn't even know how he did some of his tricks. Some of our group left today but the rest of us are doing our own things during the day but will meet up for Christmas dinner. My Christmas gift to myself is a herbal sauna and massage that I will take later today. Tomorrow I head to Luang Prabang.
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Monday, December 21, 2009
Luang Nam Tha
I came to Luang Nam Tha (or just Nam Tha) to go trekking in the Nam Tha National Protected Area (NPA), Laos's version of the national park. The big difference being that people are allowed to live within the boundaries of the NPA. The town of Nam Tha is small with one main street with lots of guesthouses, traveller oriented restaurants and travel agencies. The town didn't have any character but I still liked it. It was quiet with lots of facilities and stuff to do around. I was looking to do a long trek in the NPA and went to a few different agencies. Green Discoveries had a German couple doing a seven day trek combining forest and village stays. This sounded good to me. They would arrive in town tomorrow. I wanted to meet them first because seven days is a long time to spend with people you don't like. I ate lunch and dinner at an excellent Indian place.
I went back to Green Discoveries the next day to find out that the German couple had cancelled! I was on my own again. Treks with one person are very expensive. Even just adding one more person cuts the price almost in half. I began just asking random couples and solo people I saw. I found a Portuguese guy who was interested so we went to Green Discoveries. He wasn't totally sure because he was worried about his knee he injured 3 weeks ago but then decided to go for it. Then at the last minute as we are literrally signing the paperwork, he stops and says he doesn't want to go now! What a f#$@ing loser! Sorry for my language but this really pissed me off. I spent a few hours with this guy talking about the trek and then last minute he changes his mind!? I left right away. I had to find at least one other person to share the trek with and didn't want to spend another day in town looking for people. I finally found an American women and a Spanish guy who were interested. We went down to Green Discoveries, filled in the paperwork and paid. We were on our way, finally. The 3 day trek starts tomorrow (Dec 22) and spends 2 nights sleeping in forest bungalows. It goes through forest and mountains and not near any villages. This is just what I wanted. I only have to carry my personal stuff and some clothes. I look forward to this trek.
I had not seen a drop of rain in Myanmar but things were looking lush in Laos. It is the dry season but there was a five minute shower yesterday and it sprinkled rain for hours today. This isn't normal for this time of year and I just hope it doesn't rain too much on our trek.
I went back to Green Discoveries the next day to find out that the German couple had cancelled! I was on my own again. Treks with one person are very expensive. Even just adding one more person cuts the price almost in half. I began just asking random couples and solo people I saw. I found a Portuguese guy who was interested so we went to Green Discoveries. He wasn't totally sure because he was worried about his knee he injured 3 weeks ago but then decided to go for it. Then at the last minute as we are literrally signing the paperwork, he stops and says he doesn't want to go now! What a f#$@ing loser! Sorry for my language but this really pissed me off. I spent a few hours with this guy talking about the trek and then last minute he changes his mind!? I left right away. I had to find at least one other person to share the trek with and didn't want to spend another day in town looking for people. I finally found an American women and a Spanish guy who were interested. We went down to Green Discoveries, filled in the paperwork and paid. We were on our way, finally. The 3 day trek starts tomorrow (Dec 22) and spends 2 nights sleeping in forest bungalows. It goes through forest and mountains and not near any villages. This is just what I wanted. I only have to carry my personal stuff and some clothes. I look forward to this trek.
I had not seen a drop of rain in Myanmar but things were looking lush in Laos. It is the dry season but there was a five minute shower yesterday and it sprinkled rain for hours today. This isn't normal for this time of year and I just hope it doesn't rain too much on our trek.
Laos!
I shared a tuk tuk to the local bus station from the border with an older Danish couple. There was only one bus at the station. It was leaving at 5pm for Luang Prabang but stopped at Luang Nam Tha, where I wanted to go. The problem was it was only 1.20pm. The Danish couple changed their plans and went back to the border town. I was alone at the station for a while until a group of package tourists from China took over the place. A few backpackers arrived just before the bus left at 5. The bus was super modern ultra deluxe, compared to anything I saw in Myanmar. It was two levels with super freezing Air Con. They even handed out water and blankets.
I arrived in Luang Nam Tha at 9.30. I took a tuk tuk into the town which is ridiculously 11km away from the station. I took a nice room at Manychan Guesthouse, ate dinner, watched TV and crashed. It was another long day but I was glad to be in Laos.
I arrived in Luang Nam Tha at 9.30. I took a tuk tuk into the town which is ridiculously 11km away from the station. I took a nice room at Manychan Guesthouse, ate dinner, watched TV and crashed. It was another long day but I was glad to be in Laos.
The Golden Triangle
Dec. 18
I ate my last breakfast at Four Sisters and walked with all my stuff into town. A travel agent there was giving me the cheapest price on a taxi to the airport. The airstrip was in Heho, 40km away and the taxi was $14 to get there. I gave myself one hour to get there and arrived exactly one hour and a half before my flight left, as the travel said I should do. I checked in a then waited. The 'airport' was empty except for a few locals. The plane landed just minutes before we boarded. It left on time at 1.25. There were already passengers on the plane but it was full. It was open seating and I took a window seat. The aircraft was a 60 seater twin prop plane. It's not everyday I ride in a prop plane. The flight was fairly smooth and only 45 minutes long. The landscape below looked brown with some different colored cultivated patches. Once we landed in Tachilek I took a taxi into town to the Myanmar Travels and Tours office (MTT) to get my permit. The office was smartly located right at the border. Everything went smooth and the guy from the office even walked me to the Thail immigration and helped me. MTT took care of all the customs on the Myanmar side.
Once in Thailand it was easy to get the standard 30 day visa. The border was really busy with Asain people. I took a pickup to a waiting bus for Chaing Rai. It took about 1.5 hours to get to Chang Rai.It was a shock to be back in Thailand after a month in Myanmar. Sure Thailand is still a developing country but compared to Myanmar, it's developed! The smooth and paved roads, new cars, nice buildings and abundance of shopping and services available took a bit of getting used to. It was nice to be back in this for a bit. I took a nice room at City Home and went out to eat. I had a tasty green Thai curry and Singha beer. There were lots of foreigners around too. I just relaxed for the rest of the day, it had been a long one.
Chaing Rai is one of the largest cities in the Golden Triangle, the triborder area between Thailand, Laos and Myanmar were most of the worlds opium is grown. Chaing Rai was just a transit point for me. I left the next day on a bus at 10am for the border, 2 hours away. I arrived at the border and it was pretty straightfoward filling out the forms and getting my 30 day Laos visa.
I ate my last breakfast at Four Sisters and walked with all my stuff into town. A travel agent there was giving me the cheapest price on a taxi to the airport. The airstrip was in Heho, 40km away and the taxi was $14 to get there. I gave myself one hour to get there and arrived exactly one hour and a half before my flight left, as the travel said I should do. I checked in a then waited. The 'airport' was empty except for a few locals. The plane landed just minutes before we boarded. It left on time at 1.25. There were already passengers on the plane but it was full. It was open seating and I took a window seat. The aircraft was a 60 seater twin prop plane. It's not everyday I ride in a prop plane. The flight was fairly smooth and only 45 minutes long. The landscape below looked brown with some different colored cultivated patches. Once we landed in Tachilek I took a taxi into town to the Myanmar Travels and Tours office (MTT) to get my permit. The office was smartly located right at the border. Everything went smooth and the guy from the office even walked me to the Thail immigration and helped me. MTT took care of all the customs on the Myanmar side.
Once in Thailand it was easy to get the standard 30 day visa. The border was really busy with Asain people. I took a pickup to a waiting bus for Chaing Rai. It took about 1.5 hours to get to Chang Rai.It was a shock to be back in Thailand after a month in Myanmar. Sure Thailand is still a developing country but compared to Myanmar, it's developed! The smooth and paved roads, new cars, nice buildings and abundance of shopping and services available took a bit of getting used to. It was nice to be back in this for a bit. I took a nice room at City Home and went out to eat. I had a tasty green Thai curry and Singha beer. There were lots of foreigners around too. I just relaxed for the rest of the day, it had been a long one.
Chaing Rai is one of the largest cities in the Golden Triangle, the triborder area between Thailand, Laos and Myanmar were most of the worlds opium is grown. Chaing Rai was just a transit point for me. I left the next day on a bus at 10am for the border, 2 hours away. I arrived at the border and it was pretty straightfoward filling out the forms and getting my 30 day Laos visa.
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Inle Lake
This placid lake was to be my last destination in Myanmar but it was one I liked the most. I checked a few hotels out and settled at the Four Sisters Inn, about a 15 minute walk from the centre of Nyaungshwe town. The town is very small with little traffic but plenty of places to stay and eat. The internet was also kind of fast and cheap. It was a mellow place just to walk along with no hassle. A few guys would approach you for a boat or trek but were easy to deal with. My first day there I just relaxed in the afternoon, I arrived at 2.30. I was really looking forward to a grilled fish dinner and actually pre ordered my dinner. I arrived at Unique Superb food restaurant at 6.30, just when I said I would. My dinner was out in minutes. A huge grilled lake fish stuffed with veggies and accompanied with french fries for $4. It was all supremely delicious.
The lake sits at an elevation of 900m, so it was just a bit chilly at night. It was a bit expensive here to do a boat trip on the lake, so I asked a few people I saw around but everyone had already been on the lake. I figured I would leave the boat trip till my last full day here and see if I met anyone to share.
Day 2
The Four Sisters Inn gave one the the best breakfasts I've had in Myanmar. Tea/Coffee,bananas, toast, eggs and a pancake! I hung around and read for a while before walking into town. There were some hot springs nearby that I wanted to visit and went to a tiny hole in the wall travel agency to ask about hiring a moto. I got a moto and driver for $5 take me there and back and wait a few hours. This was decent price and we left at 11am.
The Hu Pin hotsprings were exactly as I pictured them from the guidebook's description. Hot spa/mineral water was channelled into nicely tiled small pools for bathing. It was all very tasteful and well constructed. They supplied towel,locker, change room,soap and shampoo. They also separate the men/women and foriegners. I had the whole 3 pools to myself and total privacy, no locals to stare at me but no other foriegners around either.
There were 3 pools, 2 warm and one hot. I started in the warm pool, about 32C, very comfortable.
The lake sits at an elevation of 900m, so it was just a bit chilly at night. It was a bit expensive here to do a boat trip on the lake, so I asked a few people I saw around but everyone had already been on the lake. I figured I would leave the boat trip till my last full day here and see if I met anyone to share.
Day 2
The Four Sisters Inn gave one the the best breakfasts I've had in Myanmar. Tea/Coffee,bananas, toast, eggs and a pancake! I hung around and read for a while before walking into town. There were some hot springs nearby that I wanted to visit and went to a tiny hole in the wall travel agency to ask about hiring a moto. I got a moto and driver for $5 take me there and back and wait a few hours. This was decent price and we left at 11am.
The Hu Pin hotsprings were exactly as I pictured them from the guidebook's description. Hot spa/mineral water was channelled into nicely tiled small pools for bathing. It was all very tasteful and well constructed. They supplied towel,locker, change room,soap and shampoo. They also separate the men/women and foriegners. I had the whole 3 pools to myself and total privacy, no locals to stare at me but no other foriegners around either.
There were 3 pools, 2 warm and one hot. I started in the warm pool, about 32C, very comfortable.
Mandalay - Thazi - Kalaw - Inle Lake
My next destination was the mountain town of Kalaw on the way to Inle Lake. I was going to do the three day trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake but taking a day to rest after being sick kind of screwed everything up. I was able to get my permit to cross the border to Thailand and booked a flight for the day before my visa expired on Dec. 19. There was no flight on the 19th or else I would have went the last day. This means that I would only have 4 nights for Kalaw, trekking and Inle Lake. The trekking was two nights. I didn't want to spend just one night at the lake so I decided to skip on the trekking. It was only staying in villages along the way with not much forest, so I wasn't too disappointed.
The problem I had to figure out was how to get to Kalaw without taking the overnight bus option which was the most popular and straightforward way. I came up with a plan. It would be a bus/train combo to Kalaw. I hung out with Thida for the last time in the morning before I left. She helped me get transport to the bus station and rode with me there. I said bye and then got on the bus to Meiktila.
It was three hour ride from Mandalay to Meiktila. Once there I had to switch to a pickup for Thazi, only one hour away. I rode in the back of a pickup filled to the brim with sacs of onions. It only took us 30 minutes to get to Thazi and before I knew it, they were dropping me off at Moonlight Resthouse. I ate dinner and went to bed. The train to Kalaw left at 5am.
I woke up at 4.20am and walked to the train station. I bought my ticket for upper class and had a bit of rice and coffee for breakfast. The train left 30 minutes late. Instead of separate chairs, like a bus, off the last train, this time it was a larger seat with one big cushion. It was more comfortable and had more elbow room. The tiny old woman sitting beside seemed far away. The train left in the dark but soon the morning sun was a welcome sight. It's warming rays getting out the morning chill. The scenery along the way was amazing, mountains and rolling hills and small villages only along the rail line. It took about seven hours to get to Kalaw.
I took a horsecart to the Golden Lily Guesthouse and got a large, though faily empty room, with hot shower for $6. After eating lunch I took a rest. I was feeling the effects of being up at 4am. For dinner I went back to the same small family run restaurant. I was literally eating in their living room. Kalaw sits at 1230m elevation and gets cold in December and January. It was 14C when I went to bed but when I got up it was only 9C! This was the coldest place I had been to so far and I hoped it would remain the coldest place I would visit.
That morning I took a pickup to the junction for the road to Inle Lake, about two hours away. From here I hired a moto for the last 30 minute drive. I was finally in my last destination in Myanmar. I had 3 nights to spend at the lake before my flight out.
The problem I had to figure out was how to get to Kalaw without taking the overnight bus option which was the most popular and straightforward way. I came up with a plan. It would be a bus/train combo to Kalaw. I hung out with Thida for the last time in the morning before I left. She helped me get transport to the bus station and rode with me there. I said bye and then got on the bus to Meiktila.
It was three hour ride from Mandalay to Meiktila. Once there I had to switch to a pickup for Thazi, only one hour away. I rode in the back of a pickup filled to the brim with sacs of onions. It only took us 30 minutes to get to Thazi and before I knew it, they were dropping me off at Moonlight Resthouse. I ate dinner and went to bed. The train to Kalaw left at 5am.
I woke up at 4.20am and walked to the train station. I bought my ticket for upper class and had a bit of rice and coffee for breakfast. The train left 30 minutes late. Instead of separate chairs, like a bus, off the last train, this time it was a larger seat with one big cushion. It was more comfortable and had more elbow room. The tiny old woman sitting beside seemed far away. The train left in the dark but soon the morning sun was a welcome sight. It's warming rays getting out the morning chill. The scenery along the way was amazing, mountains and rolling hills and small villages only along the rail line. It took about seven hours to get to Kalaw.
I took a horsecart to the Golden Lily Guesthouse and got a large, though faily empty room, with hot shower for $6. After eating lunch I took a rest. I was feeling the effects of being up at 4am. For dinner I went back to the same small family run restaurant. I was literally eating in their living room. Kalaw sits at 1230m elevation and gets cold in December and January. It was 14C when I went to bed but when I got up it was only 9C! This was the coldest place I had been to so far and I hoped it would remain the coldest place I would visit.
That morning I took a pickup to the junction for the road to Inle Lake, about two hours away. From here I hired a moto for the last 30 minute drive. I was finally in my last destination in Myanmar. I had 3 nights to spend at the lake before my flight out.
Mandalay Hill
I met Thida later in the afternoon. We went to a local market but there was nothing I wanted. We both wanted to go to Mandalay Hill for sunset. The hill rises 760' above the flat city. We hired a bicycle trishaw for the ride there and back. We arrived late and as we climbed barefoot up tons of stairs to the top, the sun set. That was okay though because I've learned the most intense colors of the sun can come 20 minutes after it's set. We were both a little sweaty by the time we reached the top, but what a view! A panoramic 360 degree view of the shan hills in the distance, Ayerwaddy river and the huge Mandalay palace. There were some curious young monks up there asking me questions. We stayed up for a while admiring the views.
Ten minutes into our trishaw ride back into downtown there was a firecracker loud BANG! It was the tire of the sidecar exploding. We sat at a teashop for a bit waiting for it to be repaired. After it was fixed we only went for 5 minutes before it started ballooning out, it wasn't fixed. So we switched to another trishaw. We went to a local place for dinner. I ordered a big bowl of Thai veg soup, since it was only 30 cents more than the small bowl. Sure, I ordered the big bowl and that was what I got! There must have been 2 litres of soup, tofu and veggies! I said " Come on! You're kidding" as it arrived. Thida was laughing her head off! I scooped out most of the tofu and veggies. It was spicy but my stomach was able to handle it fine just two days after being sick. I just didn't want rice for a few days. Soup seemed like the way to go. I said bye to Thida at 9 as she rode her bike back home.
Ten minutes into our trishaw ride back into downtown there was a firecracker loud BANG! It was the tire of the sidecar exploding. We sat at a teashop for a bit waiting for it to be repaired. After it was fixed we only went for 5 minutes before it started ballooning out, it wasn't fixed. So we switched to another trishaw. We went to a local place for dinner. I ordered a big bowl of Thai veg soup, since it was only 30 cents more than the small bowl. Sure, I ordered the big bowl and that was what I got! There must have been 2 litres of soup, tofu and veggies! I said " Come on! You're kidding" as it arrived. Thida was laughing her head off! I scooped out most of the tofu and veggies. It was spicy but my stomach was able to handle it fine just two days after being sick. I just didn't want rice for a few days. Soup seemed like the way to go. I said bye to Thida at 9 as she rode her bike back home.
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